Check engine light, ABS and traction light are on

Tiny
FIXCAR2019
  • MEMBER
  • 2009 CHEVROLET EQUINOX
  • 3.4L
  • V6
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 130,000 MILES
When the SUV starts to act up the brake light starts beeping and light comes on, the gauges start jumping around everywhere, it will not accelerate, a memo pops up that states service vehicle soon and loosing engine power. Every time I replace the battery it drives fine for a couple days then acts up again. Also the door locks have always been out of wack. When I press the door lock all of the doors will not unlock or maybe just one will not lock or lock. When I use the key-less entry it does the same thing and it also seems to die down after several clicks. Also before I purchased the key-less entry the alarm would blare if I didn't stick the key in the ignition.
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Friday, July 5th, 2019 AT 12:13 PM

5 Replies

Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
Welcome to 2CarPros.

This is an interesting one. However, the idea that the battery gets weak is most likely the cause of all the electrical issues. Have you checked the alternator output to confirm it is working? A good battery can work on its own for awhile, but will eventually fail if not maintained by the alternator. I have to be honest, with the electronics on cars today, low voltage can cause many things to act up.

Also, if the check engine light is coming on, you should have it scanned to see what diagnostic trouble codes are stored in it.

Here is a quick video showing how to scan a computer:

https://youtu.be/YV3TRZwer8k

I realize most people don't own a scanner, but often times a parts store will do it for free or lend / rent you a scanner.

Next, we need to confirm the alternator is doing its job. Here is a link that explains how to check. All you will need is a basic volt meter or multi meter.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-alternator

Here are a few links to help:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-voltmeter

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-a-test-light-circuit-tester

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring

_______________________________________

Now, before doing anything, first check to make sure the battery terminals are clean and tight. If they are, then proceed with the alternator test. If the alternator fails the test, it will need replaced. If it doesn't fail, let me know.

Here is a link that shows in general how one is replaced:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-an-alternator

_____________________________________

Here are the directions specific to your vehicle for alternator / generator replacement. The attached pictures correlate with the directions.

_____________________________________

GENERATOR REPLACEMENT
Generator Replacement (LNJ) (3.4L)

Removal Procedure

pic 1

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable. Refer to Battery Negative Cable Disconnection and Connection (See: Battery Cable > Removal and Replacement).
2. Remove the drive belt. Refer to Drive Belt Replacement (See: Drive Belt > Removal and Replacement > Drive Belt Replacement).
3. Disconnect the engine wiring harness electrical connector (1) from the generator.
4. Reposition the engine wiring harness boot (4).
5. Remove the generator terminal nut (2).
6. Remove the engine wiring harness terminal lead (3) from the generator.

pic 2

7. Remove the generator bolts (1).
8. Remove the generator (2).

Installation Procedure

pic 3

1. Install the generator (2).

Caution: Refer to Fastener Caution (See: Vehicle > Vehicle Damage Warnings > Fastener Caution).

2. Install the generator bolts (1) and tighten to 50 Nm (37 lb ft).

pic 4

3. Install the engine wiring harness terminal lead (3) to the generator.
4. Install the generator terminal nut (2) and tighten to 20 Nm (15 lb ft).
5. Position the engine wiring harness boot (4).
6. Connect the engine wiring harness electrical connector (1) to the generator.
7. Install the drive belt. Refer to Drive Belt Replacement (See: Drive Belt > Removal and Replacement > Drive Belt Replacement).
8. Install the negative battery cable. Refer to Battery Negative Cable Disconnection and Connection (See: Battery Cable > Removal and Replacement).

________________________________

Let me know what you find or if you have other questions.

Take care,
Joe
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Saturday, July 6th, 2019 AT 9:27 PM
Tiny
FIXCAR2019
  • MEMBER
The alternator was tested at an auto parts store and they said it was fine. In fact the said nothing was wrong with the truck, then a day later the gauges went crazy, it started to decelerate and a memo popped up stating to service vehicle soon. The funny thing is the battery was taken out and put into another vehicle and works fine. A month or two ago I received the following codes for the vehicle;
U2105, C0040, U0140, U2104, U0121, U0100, P0706, P0606, P0700, P0420.
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Saturday, July 6th, 2019 AT 10:18 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
Welcome back:

Okay, All the U codes are related to the serial data circuit. The serial data circuit is the means by which the control modules in the vehicle communicate with each other. So, if there is an issue, all kinds of things (as you experienced) can go haywire.

Now, you have P codes and one C code. The c code is related to the right front wheel speed sensor (ABS). The signal is erratic. The P0420 is related to the catalytic converter, P0700 transmission, and so on. The serial data circuit ties all of the modules together which control these components. Now, what really needs to be done is the vehicle needs driven with a live data scanner when the condition occurs. Live data on a scanner along with what is called freeze frame data can be used to determine where the initial problem starts.

Not to confuse you, but the only other thing that makes sense to me is the P0606. That code indicates there is engine control module (ECM) performance issues. When this code is present, either the ECM has an internal fault, needs reprogrammed, repaired, or replaced. The U2105 indicated there is lost communication with the ECM.

Please understand, I am not there and am providing information based on experience only. However, I think either you have a bad ECM or the connection to it is loose, corroded, or damaged in some way.

With all of that (sorry and hopefully I wasn't too confusing) the only thing you will be able to check at home is the ECM connections. Do Not disconnect any of the ECM wiring until the battery has been disconnected. Also, only reinstall the ECM wiring harness while the battery is disconnected. Once everything is back together with the ECM, then you can connect the battery.

The ECM is on the battery shield and is covered with a plastic cover. I attached three pics below to show you what it looks like, how to remove it, and I highlighted the connections in question. Disconnect the battery, remove the wiring harness from the ECM and inspect for any damage, pushed in pins, corrosion, or anything that doesn't seem normal. Before you reattach it, I strongly recommend getting some dielectric grease at any parts store and put some on every pin and then carefully re-secure the wiring.

You could simply have a bad connection or something dirty. Once you do this, reconnect the battery and see if the vehicle still does the same thing. If it does, suspect the ECM may be bad and should be serviced or replaced.

Please let me know if this helps or if you have other questions.

Take care and good luck,

Joe
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Sunday, July 7th, 2019 AT 7:00 PM
Tiny
FIXCAR2019
  • MEMBER
Thank-you. I will see how it goes.
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Sunday, July 7th, 2019 AT 7:41 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
Welcome back:

You are very welcome. I hope what I explained made sense. Anytime there is a communication error with the serial data circuit, it gets somewhat involved.

Let me know if you need anything or have questions. I will watch for your results.

Take care,
Joe
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Sunday, July 7th, 2019 AT 9:06 PM

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