Car keeps stalling codes: P1298, and P0700

Since you already replaced the ELD I would check the main ground from the battery to the engine block and the ground to the chassis. These must be in good shape or you will get this code.

CODE: P1298 - ELD (Electric Load Detector) Circuit High Voltage

1. Failing Alternator (low output or shorted stator)
2. Bad Engine Ground / Battery Cable

Here is a guide to help check the alternator charging, also if the battery is more than 4 year old a would get a new one, or at least have it tested at the auto parts store.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-a-car-alternator

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-battery-load-test

P0700 almost always appears when:

1. The PCM is losing stable voltage
2. The electrical system is dropping under load
3. Alternator output is low or intermittent
4. Engine grounds are weak


Please go over these guides and get back to us.

Thanks Ken for responding.
After changing the ELD, the stored code P1298 is gone.
Right now, I do not have any pending or stored code.

I will try to upload a short video later on.

The hard to start, but when it starts and runs for a few minutes then shuts off.

Thanks for the video, I can hear a vacuum leak which will make it run like this, try to follow the hissing noise to find the leak, it sounds like a vacuum hose is off. Here is a video to help you find the leak, you can use carb spray as well.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LRKWV4Are5c&t

Please go over this guide as well

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/stall-at-idle

Please let us know what happens.

I have a smoke machine, and I will try it out.
Thanks Ken I appreciate it.

Nice!! we are close to fixing it :0)

I changed the air intake hose, which had a crack, but still hard to start, right now I have a pending code P1399.
In first video I hear clicking sounds like spark plug.

Any suggestions?

Yep, I hear the ignition system shorting out, also, I have seen the ignition distributor go out and cause this problem as well, I would remove the cap and rotor to look for rust colored dust, if you find it the distributor is bad.

Code P1399 - Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire.

I would replace the spark plugs, wires, cap and rotor as well. You did see any other vacuum leaks with the smoke machine? Also, I would service the throttle body and IAC motor. These guide can help.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/throttle-actuator-service

and

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/idle-air-control-valve-service

Please go over these guides and get back to us.

Thank you.

No worries, let me know if that fixes it ;) Ken

Hi Ken,

So I cleaned the EGR and throttle body. Also, I removed the distributor cap, then I tried to start the car but the car just kept cranking. I plugged in the obd2 scanner no codes even the pending code is gone.

I checked the ignition wire’s resistance,
500ohm,600ohm,700ohm,800ohm
From the shortest wire to the longest.

Testing the resistance can still miss a bad wire, but I can see the ignition rotor and cap need to be replaced. Also, did the smoke machine show any leaks? Let me know after the rotos and cap replacement. Ken

I changed the rotor and cap. I started the car, and it started immediately. But the engine was hesitating, then I did a smoke test, and the new hose I installed was leaking and the EGR was leaking as well.

So, once you got those fixed did it take care of the problem? Also, did you clear the codes and did they come back?

Yes, once I changed the distributor cap and rotor, the car started right away, but the engine sounds like it has a vacuum leak. So I did a smoke test, and the smoke was coming out of the EGR and the new intake hose.
*I am waiting on another intake hose.
**I did not check for DTC.

I believe, the main problem was the distributor cap, does not have continuity between those two points.

I posted a video for EGR.

Thanks Ken, I'm pretty close to return the car to the road again.

Yep, good find, that is a bad cap for sure. I am happy to help you get the car back on the road!

Hi Ken,

One more question: right now, when the car starts, the RPM is at 2000. Do you think there is still a vacuum leak?

Happy holidays!

The RPM fluctuates

RPM fluctuating, I will clean IAC valve.

I have seen this before, it is strange, I don't think cleaning the IAC motor will fix it but you can try. Did you clear the codes? and if so do you have new codes? IF could be he EGR valve is stuck open, I would remove it and use this video.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DqUCbbKdWf4

let me know what happens.

I don't have any codes. Can I test the EGR valve with a smoke machine?
This EGR valve is a harness connection, not a vacuum.

Yep, try cleaning the IAC valve and yes a smoke machine can help test the EGR.

This is an EGR valve. There was smoke coming out when I did a smoke test with a smoke machine.

Probably the code P1399, got cleared because I disconnected the ground terminal when I changed the distributor cap and the spark plug wires.

Yep, that valve is leaking good find. Yes, some codes will reset when the battery is disconnected.

Hi Ken,

I cleaned the IAC valve. Right now, the car is idling properly.
Thank you for the help, Ken.

Glad you could get it fixed, thanks for letting us know. Please use 2CarPros anytime we are here to help. Ken

Hi Ken,

I drove the car but it hesitated when accelerating, and the car stalled a couple of times when I was driving it.
Do you think the IAC valve is faulty?

Yep, it sounds like it IAC is failing intermittently.

I replaced the IAC valve with an aftermarket one, and the idle is around 750, but when I press on the gas pedal, the RPM fluctuates, then did a smoke test, and the smoke was leaking from the top of the IAC.
Do you recommend using RTV, and thread sealant on the bolts?

The O ring should seal it, did you replaced it or does it have one? Also, if you press the brake pedal and it effects the engine you may have a leaking booster. I would remove the vacuum line check valve of the booster and if no vacuum escapes the booster is bad (engine off).

I installed the old IAC valve back with a new o ring, and did a smoke test, no leaks. I started the car, when I pressed the gas the rpm was fluctuating, I could not hold at a certain RPM, then the car shut off, did not start after that, just a crank no start.

**Ignore the last reply. I was going to delete the last reply, but I couldn't.

So I put the new IAC valve, the car started at about 1k RPM, ( the old one was 2k RPM, then dropping to 750 RPM). The car lost coolant, so I added I was burping the coolant while the car was running. But the car, before reaching the operating temperature, the fan did not kick on, and the engine stalled. The car did not start again.


Do you think the new IAC is bad?

*I checked the brake booster when I disconnected the line, the vacuum escaped from the booster.

That is a good sign the booster is okay. Listing to the video again it seems like the engine still has a vacuum leak. Please go over this video and guide to help us fix the problem.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/stall-at-idle

and

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LRKWV4Are5c

Please go over these guides and get back to us.

After replacing the IAC valve check the engine light came on (P1519 and P0505). I held the RPM at 3000 according to the service manual for a couple of minutes and the engine stalled, then I tried to start again, but it didn't start, my second attempt I had to press the gas pedal to help the car to start, and the car started for a minute or so then stalled, I tried to start again but it didn't start.

I did a smoke test ( key OFF, engine OFF)looks like there is a leak coming from the IAC valve connector.

IAC valve leaking

*Can I smoke test the intake with the key ON and the engine OFF?

Wow, that is the problem you have a massive vacuum leak, It may be leaking below the IAC like a PCV hose, I would use a small mirror and flash light to pin point the leak, this is the source of the issue. Thanks for the video it helps, let me know what you find. Ken

Hi Ken,

I have replaced the IAC valve and the distributor. Ignition coil was not sparking all the time that’s what was causing the not to start.
The car is drivable but I have code P0420 and it looks like the RPM is a bit high.

Thank you,

Glad you got one part fixed, please start a new thread for the p0420 code. We only handle one problem per thread, please post your new question here, you must be logged in.

https://www.2carpros.com/questions/new

Cheers, Ken