NO AIR COMING THROUGH VENTS

Spray the vacuum sys. And hoses down with carb spray. When u find the leak the eng. Will surge off idle then it returns. When u spray it again it will surge again. This is where the leak is. Does the cruise work?

The clicking noise is the programer. The vent linkage is off for the vent. U need remove the a/c vent and inspect the linkage, Its behind the glovebox assy. Also drop r/side under dash panel. Its the black box with a arm on it. If u oper. A/c sys. And listen for clicking noise.

Let's get a little more descriptive. By center vent not opening, is it a physical dash vent deflector problem, where the door won't open the door of a specific port(right, left, right center, or left center? Or is it a control issue, where no airflow comes from the dash vents? That will determine a course of action. This vehicle has no programmer, that is old technology. It does have 4 actuators-1 mode, 1 recirculate, and 2 for the dual zone temp control, that are controlled electrically by a module(IPM or Instrument Panel Module), which is actually the control head. The clicking could be from the blower motor, does it change as fan speed is ramped up? The clicking noise could also be relevant to the fact you have no mode changes. The mode actuator is located on the left(driver) side of the HVAC case, and is up near/above the gas pedal. This mode actuator can be a bit of a challenge to replace, as it has a cam attached to drive 2-3 different arms that are in time, to give you specific modes(defrost, floor, bi-level, and vent). This is just an FYI, in case you choose to remove it. I have included a picture, as well as the mode actuator R&R procedure, as follows.
Mode Actuator Replacement

REMOVAL PROCEDURE

CAUTION: Refer to SIR Handling Caution in Service Precautions.

Remove the IP carrier. Refer to IP Assembly Replacement in Instrument Panel, Gauges, and Console.
IMPORTANT: The temperature door motor does not need to be removed in order to remove the mode actuator motor.
The temperature door motor is removed in the graphic in order to show the fastener locations.

Remove the mode actuator retaining screws (1).
Remove the mode actuator.
Note the position of the door levers to the cam. The mode door levers must be in the same position in order to reassemble the mode actuator to the HVAC case.
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE

Lubricate the pivots on the mode door levers and the channels on the mode motor cam before reassembling.
Align the mode door levers with the cam slots, as noted on disassembly.
Install the mode actuator to the HVAC module
NOTE: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.

Install the mode actuator retaining screws (1).
Tighten
Tighten the fasteners to 1.4 N.M (12 lb in).

Install the IP carrier. Refer to IP Assembly Replacement in Instrument Panel, Gauges, and Console.
Recalibrate the actuators. Refer to BCM Programming/RPO Configuration (DIM) or BCM Programming/RPO Configuration (RIM) in Body Control Module System.

It states in the procedure that the I/P carrier(dash) has to be removed, that is not true. It would make the actuator easier to replace, but you would have the difficulty of removing the dash(which is not too difficult, just labor intensive). There may also be a code associated with your problem, in the IPM. Do you know how to read codes through your on-board feature?

Yes if you have power and ground to the blower motor and its not coming on its a bad blower motor and needs to be replaced

The mode selection is done through a series of air doors that are operated by

vacuum. When there is either a partial or total loss of vacuum, the system will

default to either defrost or on some vehicles, heat. Acceleration can also have an

effect on the doors for the same reason.

Look under the hood for a small black plastic hose coming through the firewall.

Follow it to the vacuum source looking for any breaks, cracks or leaks. Also follow

any other lines that branch off because they may go to a vacuum reservoir (storage

tank) and a leak there will cause the same problem. Using a vacuum gauge to

determine if you have full vacuum at any given point is the best way to find it. You

can cut into the line anywhere and splice it back together with a piece of vacuum

hose. Find the broken line, you found your problem.

I need to know what the problem, is please post some details.

If you have the computer scanned, what ever tripped the "check" light should be logged in memory. Auto Zone will scan it for free as well as most major parts stores. Let me know what you find.