Motor mount removal

Tiny
TRAMAYN
  • MEMBER
  • 1998 BUICK PARK AVENUE
Six cylinder front wheel drive automatic.

I have to take off the whole bracket to replace the serpentine belt. I am having significant trouble taking off the motor mount! I have to disconnect the mount from the block and there is a nut on a screw behind a pulley that will not allow me to take the bracket off from the engine block.
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Thursday, February 12th, 2009 AT 12:59 PM

13 Replies

Tiny
IMPALASS
  • EXPERT
Hello,

To better assist you please let me know if your model is just a Park Avenue or an Ultra. Also I need to know the fourth and eighth digit of your VIN and your engine size in liter.

I have attached a picture and numbered the hardware. Which number are you having problems with?


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/248015_1_164.jpg


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Thursday, February 12th, 2009 AT 10:49 PM
Tiny
TRAMAYN
  • MEMBER
It is a 3.8 liter V6 this diagram is only the top part of the mount. On these latter model Park Avenues (1998) you have to take mount off to take the serpentine belt off. This diagram only shows the top part of the mount which only connects the mount to the frame of the car. The mount is attached to the engine block with the serpentine belt running through the mount. My model is the type where I have to jack up motor but also the model where the belt does not come off unless I take the mount off the engine to take the belt off. The nut to take the mount completely off the engine block is somehow going behind a pulley with holes that will not align so you can actually put a socket on it.
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Thursday, February 12th, 2009 AT 10:58 PM
Tiny
TRAMAYN
  • MEMBER
I have a 3800 L36 engine the one without the supercharger (non Ultra). The VIN engine code is K.

I found a owners manual here:

http://gmownercenter.yahoo.com/portal/landingpage.php?session=dHJhbWF5bjg3Njg1OTg0MA%3D%3D
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Thursday, February 12th, 2009 AT 11:28 PM
Tiny
IMPALASS
  • EXPERT
Hello,

Well, good news bad news. First lets get the bad out of the way. This is what I have in the manual. So I do not have a visual on removing or replacing the mount.

Cutlass and Malibu only (3.1L and 3.4L).

Note: Removal and installation procedure given on these vehicles only due to the complicated procedure involved.

With that well the good news, we can do what we can to work through this together.

The web site. Thanks for that but I need your VIN to see.

Next, thanks for the information but you did not give me the engine size in liter and my information is only listed as liter and model of car such as the K and I have many to choose from. So when you can please provide the liter.

Okay, I have attached another picture but shows the mount from the frame side. If I understand you correctly the mount part you are having problems with mounts to this part where I have the arrow? Yes?


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/248015_4_45.jpg



So you have the bolts off where it mounts to that mount but not where it mounts to the engine and you said you can not get to it due to a pulley. Which pulley? On many of the models I have worked on the pulleys if they have bolts on them either have holes in them so you rotate the pulley to the position you need to put the tool or they press on/off like power steering pulleys many times. Which is your case?

Can you send a couple of pictures of what you are looking at?

You do have a jack under your engine and it is braced, yes?

If the picture in m head is correct on what you are talking about if you disconnect the mount connected to the engine from the mount on the frame at that point can you jack the engine up just enough to clear getting the belt out between them?

Waiting to hear back from you.
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Friday, February 13th, 2009 AT 9:39 AM
Tiny
TRAMAYN
  • MEMBER
Thanks it is a 3.8L V6.

No the problem I am having is with the mount to engine block not mount to frame like you have in the diagrams. And yes the pulley is the power steering pulley but the holes will not align so that you may stick a socket in them to take the nut off the screw behind it. The diagram I am seeing only shows how to take the mount off the frame when on the Park Avenues you have to take the mount off the engine block to take the belt off. The belt does not simply slide off or come off without you removing the mount fully as if it was broken and you were replacing it totally. What would better serve me is how to take the mount off the engine instead of taking the mount off the car body. And yes this pulley has holes in it. But the aligning is improper to actually stick a tool in and take it off. I wish I could I would have had this done a week ago, lol. My belt does not go around the mount in these cars it is in between the mount. I have searched extensively and it seems to be quite a few people having this problem even on this site I have not found a definitive answer to others questions about this because they are asking the same one I am maybe not as clearly though.

Other refs:
http://www.2carpros.com/forum/1998-buick-park-avenue-accessory-belt-vt256532.html

http://www.2carpros.com/forum/1997-buick-park-avenue-serpentine-belt-vt257580.html
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Friday, February 13th, 2009 AT 10:02 AM
Tiny
IMPALASS
  • EXPERT
Hello,

Okay, located the below picture. If I understand we need to get 5 and 6 apart or out of the way. Am I correct?


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/248015_5_4.jpg



I do not have any visuals in my information other than the picture above.

Can you remove the pulley off of the power steering pump (AZ has the tool) and then get to the mount bolts and remove the mount that way?

Thanks for the other post you are correct others seem to have the same problem. What was Buick thinking?
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Friday, February 13th, 2009 AT 2:09 PM
Tiny
TRAMAYN
  • MEMBER
Wow! This site will be forever bookmarked. That is exactly what I need. Yes, because it is 6 that is the bolt that runs behind the pulley with the on it that I need to get off so I can fully take the mount off. I will try to go to AutoZone and get a tool to try and get the pulley off. Seems as if that is the only way to get to the nut because the holes in the pulley do not align and the nut is so far behind the pulley. I cannot even get a tool on the head of the nut, and the mount does not slide off 5 far enough so I can slide the belt through. So is that the only way to get it off. Yes I know I can probably get to it if I took the pulley off (I think the power steering pump). But I wanted to know if I could indeed take that pulley off without messing anything up, as I did not see any tool in my box that would take it off. And if that was the only and right way? Thanks man, you guys are great. My first time using the site and I am very impressed. Thank you.
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Friday, February 13th, 2009 AT 2:47 PM
Tiny
IMPALASS
  • EXPERT
Hello,

I attached the tool for your viewing.


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/248015_2_108.jpg



If you have never used one ask them to make sure you understand because the parts that go over the pulley end are in two halves and a ring slides over. Make sure you have the rod centered in the middle of the pulley so you do not damage the pulley and mark where the pulley is to be sure when you press it back on right. Slow and steady are the two words for the day.

You use the same tool to press it back on so lube the shaft a little.

Also, before you remove it stand to the side or look from above to get a good view of how all the pulley wheels line up. That way when you install you can verify. If it is a fraction off you could shred the belt you probably do not want to do this twice but think how fast you would be the second time!

Next, for your safety please make sure you jack/brace the engine so when you remove the mount the stress is off of it.

Yes, you can remove the pulley wheel without messing t things up if you use the right tool and go easy.

Well, I do not have that in the book here on how to remove but that is how you remove the many types of power steering pulleys.

Glad you like the site and we can help. That is what it is here for. Lots of great moderators here on the site trying to help folks out.

Also, feel free to log a feedback next to my name if you wish.

Thanks again, good luck and let us know how it turns out and please tell your friends (and enemies too they have to drive too ) about the site.
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Friday, February 13th, 2009 AT 3:17 PM
Tiny
IMPALASS
  • EXPERT
Hello,

Hey, also one last thing, it looks like you may have some recalls on your vehicle. The dealer may fix these for free. Please contact the dealer service department, give them the VIN number of your car and have them check on these to see if they apply to you.


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/248015_3_69.jpg


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Friday, February 13th, 2009 AT 3:19 PM
Tiny
BIRCHHILLAUTO
  • MEMBER
I have done this job if you remove spacers 4 and 5 (by removing studs (Inverted torx ) with a little effort you can change the belt.
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Thursday, January 22nd, 2015 AT 7:30 AM
Tiny
URIELZ
  • MEMBER
What is the name of part 3 of the diagram? I want to know because it broke on my car and I want to buy it. If you know any place that sells them online could you also let me know? Thanks
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Thursday, November 12th, 2015 AT 8:13 PM
Tiny
BOHNCO
  • MEMBER
1997 Buick Park Avenue Ultra

So, I thought it would be time consuming but doable. All good until I discovered the bolt behind! The power steering pulley! I need to vent a bit about the GM engineers on this one. I don't think they could have designed a worse routing for the "S" belt (belts on a Ultra). The reason I needed to pull the mount was to replace the idler pulley next to the harmonic dampener on a Ultra. This item is strategically located BEHIND the motor mount! Then I noticed that the belt itself is routed so you have to pull the motor mount to replace it! The mechanics union had to be in on this one!
This thread is correct, the pulley for the power steering pump must come off to get the third bolt out of the engine block. Not an easy task due to the lack of clearance between the frame ant the PS unit even with the engine dropped. On a 1997 Ultra there are no spacers as shown in the diagram. The mount is all one piece, forged to surround, capture and cover all spinning consumables!
Sorry if my frustration is showing, but I've been at it for three hours, The motor is loose, the inner fenders are out, the wheel is off and now I have to wait till tomorrow to go get a puller!
It's hard to imagine a purposeful design so it would nearly require dropping the trans-axle to replace belts. I appreciate my 1967 327 more all the time!
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Friday, October 12th, 2018 AT 5:49 PM
Tiny
KEN
  • ADMIN
Hello,

Yep soon of these designs have little to be desired. Here is what the book says about changing the belt with diagrams below.

INSTALLATION
1. Install the drive belt.
2. Install the engine mount bracket front upper and lower studs and spacers.
3. Install the engine mount bracket front upper and lower nuts. Tighten the nuts to 78 Nm (58 ft. Lbs.).
4. Install the engine mount to engine mount bracket nuts. Tighten the nuts to 87 Nm (64 ft. Lbs.).
5. Remove the floor jack.

Check out the diagrams (Below). Let us know what happens and please upload pictures or videos of the problem.

Cheers, Ken
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Saturday, October 13th, 2018 AT 11:46 AM

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