1997 Buick Lesabre Won't Start / Starter Replacement

Tiny
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  • 1997 BUICK LESABRE

Electrical problem
1997 Buick Lesabre 6 cyl Two Wheel Drive Automatic 80,000 miles

Car won't start. Engine does not turn. No clicking sounds from starter (possibly one click when ignition is turned). Battery is old but seems good. Lights are bright and do NOT dim when ignition is turned. Tried starting with battery charger/boost 30amp on. Still no start. Over the past month, noticed delay between turning ignition and starter engaging. Instead of starting immediately, it seemed to take a second or two before the starter responded. Hard to recall, but it seems delay became slightly longer over time.

#1. Where is the starter located on this engine. Front towards the radiator, or rear towards the cabin?

#2. How do I determine it's definitely the starter? I have a volt-ohm meter. What does bridging the connections on the solenoid do? How do I test/eliminate the ignition switch and neutral safety switch?

Thanks
Jack
jturner4@hotmail. Com

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Friday, January 18th, 2008 AT 7:23 PM

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Tiny
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Starter front by radiator
has two terminals on it large and small
big one has to have battery volts at all times
also the small wire should have battery volts only when you try to start
if u jump the two terminals together the starter should activate
and turn the engine
also check your fluids
oil and coolant
let me know

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Friday, January 18th, 2008 AT 9:23 PM
Tiny
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OK, removed plastic skid shield and see starter. Seems doable. There appears to be a plastic shield/cradle under the starter that needs to be removed before I can get to one of the bolts. I made a connection between the small wire solenoid connector and the + battery connection. The starter turned. What, if anything, does that prove?

How do I test to see if the ignition switch or neutral safety switch are NOT the problem before I go pulling out the starter? I'm guessing I connect the volt meter to the small solenoid wire and turn on the ignition, but I'm a little fuzzy on the + - connections and the reading I'm supposed to get.

Thanks for your help,
Jack
jturner4@hotmail. Com

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Sunday, January 20th, 2008 AT 7:16 PM
Tiny
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When you made the connection and starter turn that tells the starter may be OK
so we need to find why if any the signal not reaching the starter from the ignition switch
so with a volts meter black lead on the ground (_)
and the red lead on the small starter terminal
try to crank you should have battery volts
if no volts look at the top of the tranny for a plug with 4or 5 wires
unplug it and with the red lead check if you have a battery volts when starting
you should on one wire
if you do you need the N/S switch
let me know

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Sunday, January 20th, 2008 AT 9:09 PM
Tiny
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Will check it out tomorrow. I'm doing this on my own, so I need to run wires from the solenoid to my meter leads so I can read it when turning on ignition. I'm using solid 12 gauge wire. Tried it earlier today, got a zero reading volts on the meter. Not 100% sure my connections were tight. Will try again.

Unclear on testing the neutral switch. I think I found it. Passenger side, near cabin, looking down near the brake master cylinder. 2 connectors, one with 4 or 5 wires and another connector with 7 wires. Looks like 2 bolts connecting it to transmission and a linkage on top. What do I disconnect, _where_ do I put + lead, and what does it mean voltage/no voltage?

BTW, disconnected battery earlier today. Now have SECURITY blinking when ignition is turned to ON. Is this a problem that will prevent STARTING? How do I reset SECURITY?

Thanks
Jack
jturner4@hotmail. Com

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Sunday, January 20th, 2008 AT 10:39 PM
Tiny
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I always found it easier to use a test light instead of the volts meter
you right on the N/S switch location if you need wiring let me know
security : turn key on attempt to start and leave key on for about 10 min the security light stop blinking
key off you may have to do it 3 times over
good luck let me know

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Monday, January 21st, 2008 AT 5:14 PM
Tiny
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Connected about 36" 12 gauge solid wire to small solenoid cable. Attached volt meter. Turned ignition switch, got a reading of (negative) -0.03. Got similar reading in neutral, and by just applying brakes with ignition off. Turned on 30amp battery booster and tried again. Turned ignition on and got a positive reading of +0.07. Tested with test light (ignition on) .... no light.

Can I assume the solenoid is not getting power and my problem is either the neutral switch or ignition switch? How do I test the neutral switch? I've removed the 2 connectors, but need guidance on which leads I test.


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/86488_neutralB_1.jpg


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/86488_neutralA_1.jpg



Thanks for your help,
Jack
jturner4@hotmail.com

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Monday, January 21st, 2008 AT 6:55 PM
Tiny
BMRFIXIT
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Before we go any further
do you still have security light on and blinking

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Monday, January 21st, 2008 AT 7:12 PM
Tiny
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Before we go any further
do you still have security light on and blinking

Yes, SECURITY light is still blinking. Should I have fixed that before testing the solenoid connection? Does SECURITY block the power?

If I leave the key ON for 10 minutes, won't that run down the battery (lights are always on when the key is ON).

_Jack_

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Monday, January 21st, 2008 AT 7:30 PM
Tiny
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Put every thing back
and let s get the security issue solved 1st
do u have a chip on the ignition key
if so do you have a different key that you can use lets try that
leaving the key on for ten min may not work on your car sorry I was thinking different system
check all the fuses with key on and with key off
check fuse # 7 located behind right side of dash
check air back /vats fuse left side

clean the key and the ignition cylinder

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Monday, January 21st, 2008 AT 7:57 PM
Tiny
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Put every thing back
and let s get the security issue solved 1st
do u have a chip on the ignition key
if so do you have a different key that you can use lets try that
leaving the key on for ten min may not work on your car sorry I was thinking different system
check all the fuses with key on and with key off
check fuse # 7 located behind right side of dash
check air back /vats fuse left side

clean the key and the ignition cylinder
.
Yes, there is a chip on the key.
Yes, I have a second key. I tried it earlier, but possibly after the SECURITY problem.
I checked the IGN SWC fuses (60 amp) earlier, they looked OK.
My fuses are under hood on firewall. 2 boxes of 6-8 fuses each. Plus 5 or 6 large square (relays?) Below.
Do I have more fuses inside the car?
What is fuse #7?
What is air back /vats fuse left side?
Is this SECURITY thing fixable?

_Jack_

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Monday, January 21st, 2008 AT 8:46 PM
Tiny
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Its possible
did you check your PM I sent you one !Let me know
its AIRBAG/VATS fuse
i think you should have fuses on the inside under dash and under /around the clove box area

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Monday, January 21st, 2008 AT 9:13 PM
Tiny
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Did you check your PM I sent you one !Let me know
its AIRBAG/VATS fuse
i think you should have fuses on the inside under dash and under /around the clove box area

Didn't know there was a PM section.
The image you sent was too small,
tried blowing it up but became unreadable.
Checked owner's manual, says I have fuses on both sides of dash (besides those under hood).

Not sure what #7 fuse is. On passenger side fuses there is a row #7 of fuses. All empty. #1A is PASS-Key and #2E is Air Bag System, PASS-Key.

Driver side fuse #7 is Injectors.

I think I activated the security system either when I removed the negative cable, or jumped the solenoid to battery cables. Hoping to clear the SECURITY problem so I can get back to square 1.

Thanks,
Jack

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Monday, January 21st, 2008 AT 11:00 PM
Tiny
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Pass-key & VAT fuses are good.

Jack

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Tuesday, January 22nd, 2008 AT 5:31 PM
Tiny
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Check your e. Mail

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Tuesday, January 22nd, 2008 AT 6:14 PM
Tiny
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I wish yall hadnt stopped going here to communicate lol I am having similar problem with my car and am curious what your conclusion with this was.

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Thursday, December 31st, 2015 AT 11:31 AM

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