Brakes

Tiny
KANUI MOIHA
  • MEMBER
  • 2006 CHEVROLET SUBURBAN
  • 5.3L
  • V8
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 85,000 MILES
Service stability light comes on and the ABS light comes on.
While bleeding the brakes the rear driver side brakes do not work and had no fluid while bleeding. I changed the outer brake hose to caliper and nothing.
Trying to avoid going to dealership to fix. Any help is much appreciated.
Mahalo
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Saturday, April 23rd, 2016 AT 7:04 PM

23 Replies

Tiny
KEN
  • ADMIN
Hi KANUI MOIHA,

It sounds like you have an ABS sensor that has going bad, here is a guide that will help you, please let me know what happens.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/abs-wheel-speed-sensor-test

this guide will help as well

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/brake-pedal-goes-to-the-floor

Please run down these guides and report back.
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Saturday, April 23rd, 2016 AT 7:38 PM
Tiny
DOORKNOB5
  • MEMBER
  • 2003 CHEVROLET SUBURBAN
Hi, Chevy Suburban 1500, 2003 model. P-brake, rear right. Lever between cable end and brake drum is missing. So no braking action whatsoever on this side. Is this a part one can purchase separately or do I need the entire brake?
Thank you
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Saturday, January 11th, 2020 AT 2:18 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
I'm thinking you have rear disc brakes? If so, you can try a dealer, but chances are they won't be able to get it. Your best choice would be a salvage yard.
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Saturday, January 11th, 2020 AT 2:19 PM (Merged)
Tiny
DOORKNOB5
  • MEMBER
Thank you, you are right about the disc brakes. Unfortunately I'm posted overseas and can't go to my local break yard. I can drive and all that but I'm not happy about the situation. Thank you for your contribution.
Doorknob5
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Saturday, January 11th, 2020 AT 2:19 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ABEL44
  • MEMBER
  • 2001 CHEVROLET SUBURBAN
  • V8
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 193,000 MILES
When I step on my brakes it pulsates on the pedal and wont stop unless I press the brakes real hard. Now this is not the pulsating like when the rotor is warped, its a total different feeling. It does this when I slow down to about 8 mph. I changed the front pads last night but that didnt changed anything, so im going to change the rear pads because its low also. Also should I bleed the brake systems. If that doesn't work can you give any suggestions. Somebody told me it might be the abs systems but I dont no to much about that. Can you me some specifics please, Thank You.
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Saturday, January 11th, 2020 AT 2:19 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BILLYMAC
  • EXPERT
Hi
try and pull the fuse for the abs. And drive if does not do this with fuse out then the prob is in the abs.
Let me know and I will tell you how to diag an abs prob
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Saturday, January 11th, 2020 AT 2:19 PM (Merged)
Tiny
GMARCOS74
  • MEMBER
  • 1996 CHEVROLET SUBURBAN
  • 301,597 MILES
Ok, When I reverse and then put my truck in drive my brake light goes on and my brake pedal goes down to the floor. It is fine after I pump the pedal and the light goes off. The pedal has a great feel after that. But as soon as I reverse it happens again. I already had a mechanic check it and he had me replace the Master cylinder and rear brake shoes. But it still does the same, I think my mechanic ( he is old school, used to work on pre 1972 trucks) might not know that much about bleeding the abs system. Would this be causing it. Please let me know
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Saturday, January 11th, 2020 AT 2:19 PM (Merged)
Tiny
GMARCOS74
  • MEMBER
Also, when driving forward there is a slight rubbing noise from the right rear that goes away when I press on the brake pedal.
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Saturday, January 11th, 2020 AT 2:19 PM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
  • EXPERT
Have your brakes checked it sounds like you may have either air in system or a bad master cylinder. Also there is a valve in the abs that you need a scanner to activate it and it can take up to 3qts of fluid to bleed the system and that may be the problem the valve isn't working right. If the abs light is on then you have a code set and a scanner can see what the problem is.
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Saturday, January 11th, 2020 AT 2:19 PM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
  • EXPERT
The rubbing noise may be rust or rotor hitting backing plate
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Saturday, January 11th, 2020 AT 2:19 PM (Merged)
Tiny
GMARCOS74
  • MEMBER
Awesome Thanks
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Saturday, January 11th, 2020 AT 2:19 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CZR1760
  • MEMBER
  • 1993 CHEVROLET SUBURBAN
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
I have the SUV listed above it is a 1500 with over three hundred thousand miles. I recently started having problems with the brake pedal sinking to the floor. This problem seems to be more noticeable when I am stopped (at a traffic light) and holding. I first tried to bleed the brakes, but this had no effect. I changed out the master cylinder (re-manufactured), bled the brakes and still have the same problem. I also had to install a new front caliper, because the bleeder bolt would not come out of the old one. The truck seems to stop okay, but has a soft pedal. If I press on the brake pedal quickly, I can hear a "woosh" noise. I do not know if I got a bad master unit or if I have a bad vacuum booster as well. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
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Saturday, January 11th, 2020 AT 2:19 PM (Merged)
Tiny
DOCFIXIT
  • EXPERT
Rebuilt masters are no good I would get a new one.

Here is a guide to help you:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-a-brake-master-cylinder

Please let us know what you find.

Cheers
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Saturday, January 11th, 2020 AT 2:19 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CZR1760
  • MEMBER
I bought it from O'Rieley's so I can just take it back. I did a good bench bleed on it before installing it. I read that I could clamp off the brake lines and then see if the pedal got hard, just to make sure that it was the master. It is really easy to pull off, so I will probably just swap them out. Should I suspect anything with the vacuum or just leave it alone? Thanks.
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Saturday, January 11th, 2020 AT 2:19 PM (Merged)
Tiny
DOCFIXIT
  • EXPERT
If rear wheel cylinders are not leaking or sucking air. Thing to do is with small screwdriver pull boot back if fluid comes out then replace wheel cylinders first. And bench bleed is way to go.
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Saturday, January 11th, 2020 AT 2:19 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CZR1760
  • MEMBER
I swapped out the re-manufactured master for a "new" one. Bench bled, bled out the lines and still have the same problem. While the truck is running, the pedal does not seem to fully engage until about half way. If I apply pressure very quickly the pedal seems like it has correct feel (although you will forward if going too fast). If I apply slowly the pedal is down about half stroke and continues almost to the floor when stopped. The pedal travels so far down, that if I push slightly further than required to stay stopped, the "brake" light comes on the dashboard. At that point the pedal is completely stroked out. Where to go from here? Thanks.
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Saturday, January 11th, 2020 AT 2:19 PM (Merged)
Tiny
DOCFIXIT
  • EXPERT
Did you check rears?
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Saturday, January 11th, 2020 AT 2:19 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CZR1760
  • MEMBER
Checked both rear wheel cylinders, no leaks. I also gravity bled the system as well. I did get some air out, but still the same result, sinking pedal. Very frustrating.
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Saturday, January 11th, 2020 AT 2:19 PM (Merged)
Tiny
DOCFIXIT
  • EXPERT
Suspect air in BPMV see diagram this needs to be opened with a scanner when bleeding the brakes.
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Saturday, January 11th, 2020 AT 2:19 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CZR1760
  • MEMBER
Would I be able to bleed any air out of the BPMV or am I stuck taking it to a shop at this point? I will need to double check when I get home, but I believe that it has four wheel ABS. Again it is a 1993 C1500 Suburban. Looking at the diagrams that you provided, it does not resemble RWAL control module. Is there any way to manually bleed BPMV, with or without an assistant? I have invested enough time that I would like to do this myself, if possible. Thanks.
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Saturday, January 11th, 2020 AT 2:19 PM (Merged)

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