Brake pedal it goes normal until close to the bottom and then continues about a quarter inch with a clunk at the bottom?

Tiny
CHAD READ
  • MEMBER
  • 26 POSTS
Okay now I think the brakes are working I am able to move them and when somebody puts on the brakes I cannot move them. If I charge up the battery and turn the key do you think the pedal will sink to the floor?
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Wednesday, March 10th, 2021 AT 11:21 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 108,192 POSTS
Was everything replaced on the driver's side too? Does it release when you open the bleeder on the caliper? As far as the vehicle running vs not running, you will get power assist and it will be easier to depress, but it shouldn't go to the floor.

Let me know.

Joe
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Wednesday, March 10th, 2021 AT 11:21 AM (Merged)
Tiny
CHAD READ
  • MEMBER
  • 26 POSTS
Yes everything was replaced on the driver's side. I put the old caliper bracket on the driverside and greased up the caliper pins and everything seems to have worked and the pedal is staying solid so far.
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Wednesday, March 10th, 2021 AT 11:21 AM (Merged)
Tiny
CHAD READ
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  • 26 POSTS
I will have to wait to charge the battery I will let you know if I have anymore problems thanks for the help.
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Wednesday, March 10th, 2021 AT 11:21 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
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Chad,
Let me know how things work out for you. And if I helped at all, you're very welcome.

Take care,
Joe
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Wednesday, March 10th, 2021 AT 11:21 AM (Merged)
Tiny
CHAD READ
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  • 26 POSTS
Okay the driverside front brake has got a lot of drag on it. Just turning it by hand was kindve hard.
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Wednesday, March 10th, 2021 AT 11:22 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
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Welcome back Chad,
Open the bleeder on the caliper when the drag is on it and let me know if the drag goes away.

Joe
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Wednesday, March 10th, 2021 AT 11:22 AM (Merged)
Tiny
CHAD READ
  • MEMBER
  • 26 POSTS
On the the push rod adjustment diagram which is the 1 and which is the 2?
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Wednesday, March 10th, 2021 AT 11:22 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
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Hi:
In the picture, number 2 is the push rod (brake booster side) and number 1 is the distance. Is that what you needed?

Let me know,
Joe
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Wednesday, March 10th, 2021 AT 11:22 AM (Merged)
Tiny
CHAD READ
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  • 26 POSTS
So 1 is the 24mm and the 25mm is 2?
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Wednesday, March 10th, 2021 AT 11:22 AM (Merged)
Tiny
CHAD READ
  • MEMBER
  • 26 POSTS
Never mind that last question. Maybe I screwed it all the way back in bled the brakes when I got to to rear driver's side I kept pumping with hose and bottle and a lot of air came out. I don't know if it was getting empty in the reservoir. But I filled it back up. And kept pumping so I move on to the next brake no air bubble came out the drivers front and no air came out.
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Wednesday, March 10th, 2021 AT 11:22 AM (Merged)
Tiny
CHAD READ
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And the drivers side brake is almost perfect, I can turn the rotor without using all my strength it is little tighter than the passenger side but not by much.
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Wednesday, March 10th, 2021 AT 11:22 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
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Okay:
It sounds like the brakes are releasing now. Is that correct? And the numbers listed are tolerance allowances for adjusting the push rod.
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Wednesday, March 10th, 2021 AT 11:22 AM (Merged)
Tiny
CHAD READ
  • MEMBER
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Okay, yes thank you. Just have to get a new battery and see how everything works out.
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Wednesday, March 10th, 2021 AT 11:22 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 108,192 POSTS
Sounds like a plan. I hope it works properly for you. Let me know how things work out.

Take care,
Joe
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Wednesday, March 10th, 2021 AT 11:22 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • MECHANIC
  • 108,192 POSTS
Hi:
I'm not sure why this came back up, but I am interested in knowing if you ever found the issue.

If you get a chance, let me know.

Joe
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Wednesday, March 10th, 2021 AT 11:22 AM (Merged)
Tiny
ANGIGREER
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
  • 1997 FORD F-150
  • 4.6L
  • V8
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 290,000 MILES
Replaced front brake pads, after which the pedal had extreme slack and had to pump to stop. Bled brakes to no avail. So I was going to bleed again but bleeder valve (driver side) wouldn't budge. Went to drive back home to attempt further to loosen it and low and behold I had no brakes at all. I have checked booster, master cylinder, brake lines, proportion valve, ABS module and all seem in fine working order. I bled the brakes again from passenger side and then tried the driver side to realize I'm getting no fluid to driver side. So again checked lines by blowing through both ways with air hose. Still no fluid and no pedal at all.
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Wednesday, March 10th, 2021 AT 11:29 AM (Merged)
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
  • 52,797 POSTS
Good afternoon,

The pressure comes from the master cylinder. Most likely you need that and the caliper that you cannot bleed.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-replace-a-brake-master-cylinder

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/brake-caliper-replacement

I would start there.

Roy
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Wednesday, March 10th, 2021 AT 11:29 AM (Merged)
Tiny
SEVAG P
  • MECHANIC
  • 405 POSTS
Hello thanks for using 2CarPros.

it seems complete brake system is trapped by air bubbles. you must follow bleeding process by sequence starting from rear right then rear left, front right finally front left. check picture.

Follow our guide:
https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-bleed-or-flush-a-car-brake-system

Please let us know what happens with you.
Thank you.
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Wednesday, March 10th, 2021 AT 11:29 AM (Merged)
Tiny
ANGIGREER
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
Okay, so after bleeding repeatedly in sequence (including bleeding master cylinder) we had fluid to all but left (passenger) rear. A friend said to open all and let flow until fluid at all. Done that but still no pedal. Re-bled in sequence but now have nothing to front calipers but steady stream to rear.
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Wednesday, March 10th, 2021 AT 11:29 AM (Merged)

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