Intake air control valve?

Tiny
UHSNOEBIRD
  • MEMBER
I filled the gas tank up today and the truck seemed to run fine to the gas station and back. But it's still wanting to drop the idling down and attempting to shut off unless I press the gas pedal to keep it running. I was thinking I might have some water in the gasoline, not sure.
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Sunday, January 19th, 2020 AT 1:08 PM
Tiny
UHSNOEBIRD
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The throttle body has been taken off prior to installing these parts, do you think there might be a leak in the throttle body gasket on the bottom and the gasket on the top part of the throttle body. I might be able to use some ether to find out. What's your thoughts on that?
The ECT ( engine coolant temperature sensor ) is a thermistor, can't these thermistors have a break in their circuit at some resistance when the temperature gets to that resistance?
I'm thinking that when I receive the thermistor I ordered to put it on an see what happens in case the thermistor has a break in the circuit at different resistances. Hopefully you understand what I just tried to explain.
Shouldn't I be able to connect an ohmmeter to the wires on the computer that run to the crank position sensor and check it that way? The computer is underneath the passenger seat. What are your thought on that, Joe? Thanks for your answers.
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Sunday, January 19th, 2020 AT 2:17 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
Yes, you could have a leak at the TB. Interestingly, I have even see the leak be at the throttle plate where it attaches on the throttle body. As far as the ECT, yes it could be failing as well and what you described is totally possible.

The idea of the codes you have point to an issue with the crank sensor. I don't know if you're up for it, take a look through this diagnostic flow chart and see if it helps. The attached pics correlate with the directions. There was one pic I had to break into three parts so you could follow and read it, but I made sure to overlap it so you can use it.
__________________________________

1997 Nissan-Datsun Truck D21 Hardbody XE 2WD L4-2389cc 2.4L SOHC MFI (KA24E)
P0335
Vehicle ALL Diagnostic Trouble Codes ( DTC ) Testing and Inspection P Code Charts P0335
P0335

pic 1

pic 2

COMPONENT DESCRIPTION
The crankshaft position sensor (OBD) is located on the transmission housing facing the gear teeth (cogs) of the flywheel or drive plate. It detects the fluctuation of the engine revolution.
The sensor consists of a permanent magnet, core and coil.
When the engine is running, the high and low pans of the teeth cause the gap with the sensor to change.
The changing gap causes the magnetic field near the sensor to change.
Due to the changing magnetic field, the voltage from the sensor changes.
The ECM receives the voltage signal and detects the fluctuation of the engine revolution.
This sensor is not used to control the engine system. It is used only for the on board diagnosis of misfire.

Pic 3

ECM TERMINALS AND REFERENCE VALUE
Specification data are reference values and are measured between each terminal and (43) (ECCS ground).

Pic 4
ON BOARD DIAGNOSIS LOGIC

DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODE CONFIRMATION PROCEDURE
With CONSULT

pic 5

(1)Turn ignition switch "ON" and select "DATA MONITOR" mode with CONSULT.
(2)Start engine and run it for at least 10 seconds at idle speed.

OR

With GST
(1)Start engine and run it for at least 10 seconds at idle speed.
(2)Select "MODE 7" with GST.

OR

NO TOOLS
(1)Start engine and run it for at least 10 seconds at idle speed.
(2)Turn ignition switch "OFF", wait at least 7 seconds and then turn "ON".
(3)Perform "Diagnostic Test Mode II (Self-diagnostic results)" with ECM.

EC-CKPS-01 Crankshaft Position Sensor (CKPS) (OBD) (DTC P0335)

pic 6

WIRING DIAGRAM

pic 7, 8, 9

DIAGNOSTIC PROCEDURE

COMPONENT INSPECTION
Crankshaft position sensor (OBD)
1. Disconnect crankshaft position sensor (OBD) harness connector.
2. Loosen the fixing bolt of the sensor.
3. Remove the sensor.

Pic 10

4. Visually check the sensor for chipping.

Pic 11

5. Check resistance as shown in the figure.

Resistance: Approximately 166.5 - 203.5 ohms at 20 C (68 F)

__________________________________

Let me know if you can do this.

Take care,
Joe
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Sunday, January 19th, 2020 AT 9:02 PM
Tiny
UHSNOEBIRD
  • MEMBER
I'll have to wait a little while on that, when it warms up a little bit I'l try to do it. Thank you
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Monday, January 20th, 2020 AT 5:39 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
Not a problem. It's been really cold here too, so I don't blame you a bit. If you have the chance to perform the test, let me know the results.

Take care and keep warm.

Joe
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Monday, January 20th, 2020 AT 7:09 PM
Tiny
UHSNOEBIRD
  • MEMBER
Joe, can't I take the plug in off the computer and take an ohmmeter and check the wires going to the crank position sensor that come from the pins 50 and 53 on the computer and check the resistance of that CPS sensor that way?
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Monday, January 20th, 2020 AT 8:07 PM
Tiny
UHSNOEBIRD
  • MEMBER
Joe, if that crank position sensor is bad shouldn't the check engine light be on and when I connect a diagnostic scanner it should give me the code P0335 if it's bad? Just double checking.
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Monday, January 20th, 2020 AT 8:40 PM
Tiny
UHSNOEBIRD
  • MEMBER
Joe, I cannot find your reply, sorry.
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Monday, January 20th, 2020 AT 9:07 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
Yes, you can test it that way. However, make sure the battery is disconnected both before unplugging the PCM and plugging it back in. Once you finish the test, reinstall the connector and then connect the battery.

In most cases, the crank sensor will set a code. However, under some conditions, it won't. Take a look through this link. Start at paragraph three.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/symptoms-of-a-bad-crankshaft-sensor

Let me know.

Take care.

Joe
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Tuesday, January 21st, 2020 AT 4:50 PM
Tiny
UHSNOEBIRD
  • MEMBER
Joe, hang loose I'll get to it when it warms up some. I should have an extra CPS some where just need to find it. Don't want to get that flu again the Coronavirus that originated in China is in the United States now, scary.
My truck is running a little better, it might be some water in the gas, just have to wait and see.
I will check the CPS resistance when it warms up a little more.
I appreciate your help on this matter. I will be getting back in touch. Thanks
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Wednesday, January 22nd, 2020 AT 6:06 AM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
Not a problem. Take care and hope you're still feeling better.

Joe
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Wednesday, January 22nd, 2020 AT 7:38 PM
Tiny
UHSNOEBIRD
  • MEMBER
I've got a crank position sensor ordered just in case I need it, be Monday before I receive it. This might be the problem because my truck keeps wanting to quit during idling. I will let you know the outcome. Take care
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Wednesday, January 22nd, 2020 AT 8:00 PM
Tiny
UHSNOEBIRD
  • MEMBER
Joe, I received and installed crank position sensor and the truck is running fine. Drove it about 20 miles and everything seems okay.
It quit on me one time while I was idling and in a turn going slow but I think that part fixed it. I will follow up on this in a few days to fill you in. Thanks for your help!
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Tuesday, January 28th, 2020 AT 12:49 PM
Tiny
UHSNOEBIRD
  • MEMBER
I drove it tonight and it's still wanting to drop the idling out and quit, I checked the resistance of the front 2 fuel injectors and the readings were about 9-10 ohms each on both of them. I will check the other 2 tomorrow and see what they read.
Do you have anymore ideas on what wee can do? Do you think an injector might be sticking? Thanks
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Tuesday, January 28th, 2020 AT 6:26 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
Hi,

Anything is possible. I don't remember if I already asked, but if you can get your hands on a live data scanner and let me know what both the short term and long term fuel trims, I could answer you about the injector with more certainty.
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Tuesday, January 28th, 2020 AT 7:47 PM
Tiny
UHSNOEBIRD
  • MEMBER
I have that Autoxray 7000 but I cannot get the year on it to come down below the year 2000 for a Nissan and that's for 2 cars they have listed on this scanner but I seen the fuel trim on it the other day when I had it connected but I think it will give us what we are after. Do you want the readings when it's cold and when it warms up and when it starts acting up and when it starts to quit? Let me know. Thanks
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Tuesday, January 28th, 2020 AT 8:50 PM
Tiny
UHSNOEBIRD
  • MEMBER
I started the vehicle up and here is what I got withe scanner: ST FTRM1 % 3.9
LT FTRM1% -10.2 let it idle for a while when temperature was 162 degrees ST FTRM1% 1.6
LT FTRM1% -10.2 Then when it got to 181 Degrees ST TRM1% 1.6
LT FRRM1 -10.2
Then I gave it a little gas and this is what it gave me ST FTRM1% -7.8
LT FTRM1% -1.6
My truck had never attempted to quit during the idling during this time.
I drove it about 1 mile and it idled fine. Then I drove it a short distance and while it was idling it attempted to drop the idling out and quit.
While I'm driving it seems like it miss hits a little bit. Tell me what you think. There are no check engine codes. Thanks
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Wednesday, January 29th, 2020 AT 10:01 AM
Tiny
UHSNOEBIRD
  • MEMBER
Joe, I have an extra distributor, I might try replacing the one in the truck sooner or later. What's your thoughts on that?
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Wednesday, January 29th, 2020 AT 12:46 PM
Tiny
UHSNOEBIRD
  • MEMBER
I forgot to tell you that when I had throttle body off I cleaned the throttle plate and holes in it with carburetor cleaner so you will know the things that's been done to it. This is when I replaced the parts I told you about in the early part of our conversation on this problem.
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Wednesday, January 29th, 2020 AT 1:13 PM
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
Hi,

The fuel trims are done when it is warmed up. When the engine is cold, it runs in what is called an open loop. Basically, fuel mixtures are predetermined by the computer. Once the oxygen sensors start to vary in voltage, the system goes into a closed loop. That is when the fuel trims become relevant.

I noted you indicated temperature. Here is what I can tell you: They are not far off. The idea that they are negative numbers indicate the computer is trying to lean the fuel mixture, but with the readings present, it shouldn't be causing the problem. In a perfect world, the STFT should be 0. Your readings are close enough to it and wouldn't cause an issue. Like you, I am starting to think it may be electrical and not fuel related. The distributor you have, is it new or known to be good?

Joe
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Wednesday, January 29th, 2020 AT 8:00 PM

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