1998 Contour starting and running issues

Tiny
MULHALL34
  • MEMBER
  • 1998 ALL OTHER MAKES ALL OTHER MODELS
I have a 98 Contour and I start the car then it dies almost immediatly. Sometimes it will stay running but well below true idle speed. It will idle at or just beloe 800 rpm. If/when I do get the car to run it will die at stop lights or when I shift into drive. Im thinking it might be a fuel pump or injector problem. I just installed new spark plugs with the right gap so I dont think that can be the problem. I just wondered if anyone can help me out because it is turning into a big problem trying to get back and forth with a car that doesnt want to run all the time. Thanks in advance
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Friday, February 2nd, 2007 AT 8:48 AM

9 Replies

Tiny
REDDOG0269
  • MEMBER
Try your fuel filters sometimes the fuel filter will clogg completelyand not give the correct fuel pressure needed at idle speed
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Friday, February 2nd, 2007 AT 11:45 AM
Tiny
MULHALL34
  • MEMBER
Sounds good. Ill try that and get back to you. Its wierd because today it has been running fine just very few times doesnt want to start right away but stays running for the duration after it does start. But thanks for that tip
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Friday, February 2nd, 2007 AT 1:11 PM
Tiny
SERVICE WRITER
  • EXPERT
Maintenance is always good as said. If not, Check for codes in the computer for a direction to go in. Any cel present?
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Friday, February 2nd, 2007 AT 2:51 PM
Tiny
MULHALL34
  • MEMBER
Well I had the computer ran the other day before I changed the spark plugs and it showed the o2 sensor was bad or was going bad. Then another one said that it was only firing on the 2, 4, &6 cylinders making me change the plugs which fixed that problem. So then I went to mess with the sensor and couldnt even budge the nut to get it out of its socket. But as for now its running pretty good so im going to get it run again and see if its still just the sensor and then change that and go from there. But thanks
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Friday, February 2nd, 2007 AT 4:11 PM
Tiny
TAURUSWHEEL
  • MEMBER
If you're going to change the o2 sensor, a couple of things. First make sure you have a wrench that can get a firm grip on the nut of the sensor, no adjustable wrench. There are a couple of nice o2 sensor removal tools out there, I bought one at Advance Auto Parts, it's an abreviated version of the larger one which wouldn't work on my back sensor that broke, check them out. Secondly, take a propane torch and heat up the flange on the exhaust pipe where the sensor screws in, if it's hot, usually it loosens a lot easier. Stone cold will be a b#$%h to get off. Couple of other easy things to check, the maf sensor and the idle air control valve, clean them both, someone on here will tell you how if you're going to do it.
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Friday, February 2nd, 2007 AT 4:51 PM
Tiny
SERVICE WRITER
  • EXPERT
Great point TW,

Found this along the way:

It seems that a "missing" engine culprit is actually the computer's sensor inside the Mass Air Flow Sensor (MAF). It eventually just gets a little dirty or builds up its own patina in the filament wires. A dirty or slightly patinated filament will send the wrong air reading to the computer, saying it is getting more air than it really is and the computer will tell the EFI to send in the wrong mix of fuel, thus, the bogging. The patina seems to form faster if you live in a damp climate. If you have had bogging or missing or idle spots, about every 25K miles plan on this quick cleaning job:
When your engine is cool, remove the wiring clip from the side of the black plastic sensor part of the MAF aluminum body. To remove the MAF interior sensor wire, you will need a Security Star (Size T15 or T20) screwdriver or screwdriver bit for a power screwdriver. Remove the two security star-head screws and carefully remove the sensor. You will see the two sensor filaments they look almost like the filaments on a light bulb. Carefully spray the filaments with an O2 safe carburetor cleaner, such as Gumout. Let it dry thoroughly. I help mine along with a careful blast or two of canned dry air. While it is drying carefully wipe the aluminum mount surface of the MAF body if there is any dust there, but be careful not to get dust in the mount hole. When the sensor is dry, replace the sensor back in the MAF body and secure with the security star-head screws. These don't need to be torqued down, just simply hand tight. Replace the wiring clip. Then start up your engine.
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Friday, February 2nd, 2007 AT 4:54 PM
Tiny
MULHALL34
  • MEMBER
Hey guys thanks for all the input. I finally sucked ip up and took it to a shop and they ran a dyno and come to find out it was the Intake Manifold Runner Control. It was wierd the motor had shorted out on the circuit board. But that def wasnt a cheap fix. But again thanks for all the help guys.
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Friday, February 9th, 2007 AT 11:30 AM
Tiny
SERVICE WRITER
  • EXPERT
Thanks so much for the replay and solution...wish we could have ha


http://www.2carpros.com/forum/automotive_pictures/30961_diasappoited_1.jpg

d the answer.
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Friday, February 9th, 2007 AT 8:14 PM
Tiny
MULHALL34
  • MEMBER
Dont feel bad. You guys had more answers than I could have come up with. But this could help someone else out later on that has the same problem. So guys keep up the good work andthanks again for the help.
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Saturday, February 10th, 2007 AT 1:11 AM

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