A/C malfunction after battery died

Tiny
VIOLA SHUMAN
  • MEMBER
  • 2014 FORD ESCAPE
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 50,000 MILES
My battery died, and after I charged it the A/C is acting weird. The A/C button light and the circulation button light are blinking continually. You can control the power of the air coming out but that’s all. It blows hot air up through the defrost vents and that’s all it will do. I checked the fuse box inside the car and it’s fine. I didn’t check the A/C clutch fuse under the hood. I’m not sure if that’s even relevant to the problem. It was blowing ice cold before it died and now that the new battery is in, it’s gone wonky. Can anyone help me?
Tuesday, July 9th, 2019 AT 12:56 PM

14 Replies

Tiny
BMDOUBLE
  • MECHANIC
  • 1,139 POSTS
Your Escape along with all modern Ford’s have a module that has a “protect” system that will shut off all unnecessary accessories like the A/C, power windows, etc. In the event that battery voltage drops too low. This is done so that your engine can continue to run and get you to your destination. When batteries are replaced the technician will have to reset the battery monitor system (often times gets forgotten) so that all accessories are operational and the body control module can correctly manage the charging system. If your battery is weak and needs to be replaced, just recharging it will keep this issue a constant so replacement and resetting of the monitor system will need to happen. I usually run into this at least twice a week because our quickie lube guys never reset the system or other shops do the same thing. So my advice would be to 1. Test battery 2. If it fails replace it 3. Have the battery monitor reset. 4. Retest and verify correct a/c operation. If the battery and charging system passes, have the codes for the HVAC system retrieved to begin the diagnostic process, but since you’ve said that this didn’t start since you had battery issues, I would lean toward what I mentioned from the beginning. Let us know what you find!
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Tuesday, July 9th, 2019 AT 1:40 PM
Tiny
VIOLA SHUMAN
  • MEMBER
  • 8 POSTS
I don’t have the funds to take it to get reset, but I read somewhere that it will reset on its own after 8 hours? Is this true?
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Wednesday, July 10th, 2019 AT 5:21 AM
Tiny
BMDOUBLE
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Yes! That is true, I reset my customers’ right away but it should reset after 8 hours as long as the battery is new and not weak.
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Wednesday, July 10th, 2019 AT 8:11 PM
Tiny
VIOLA SHUMAN
  • MEMBER
  • 8 POSTS
Thank you so much for your help! I changed the battery. We will see what happens in the morning.
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Wednesday, July 10th, 2019 AT 8:12 PM
Tiny
VIOLA SHUMAN
  • MEMBER
  • 8 POSTS
Well, it’s a new battery and the AC is doing the same thing. I was really hoping this was going to be a simple fix. :(
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Thursday, July 11th, 2019 AT 5:44 AM
Tiny
BMDOUBLE
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  • 1,139 POSTS
If the battery failed a battery test replacement was necessary so it’s not a lost cause. As I mentioned in my previous posting, codes will need to be retrieved from the hvac module to go further with diagnostics. If you take your car to a shop for diagnosis with a weak battery, they will start there regardless so don’t feel bad because you replaced it, I totally understand budget crunches. Some parts stores will even retrieve trouble codes for free, get these codes and I’ll help you! It just makes it more difficult when I can’t put my hands, eyes and ears on the vehicle.
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Thursday, July 11th, 2019 AT 8:36 AM
Tiny
VIOLA SHUMAN
  • MEMBER
  • 8 POSTS
Can they pull codes if the check engine light isn’t on? I took the car up to advance auto parts and they said they can’t run a scan if the engine light isn’t on. :/

You’re awesome by the way. I wish I could pay you for just troubleshooting with me like this.
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Thursday, July 11th, 2019 AT 8:39 AM
Tiny
BMDOUBLE
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You just made my day, lol. No problem at all! Yes you can scan for codes if there isn't a light on, that's ridiculous that they would say that! That's like doctor saying that he can't take your pulse unless your sick? Anyways, there will either be a code that will say P1000 which usually sets when the battery is unhooked or there will be what we call a "hard fault" which is a code present when there is a short circuit or sensor issue that is currently present. Regardless there is always a code in the power-train control module. I'm currently doing some more research in between my customers vehicles to help you out so I apologize if it takes a minute to get back with you. I'm a dealer tech and these new cars are a never ending headache, lol.
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Thursday, July 11th, 2019 AT 9:22 AM
Tiny
BMDOUBLE
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By the way is your Escape a 1.6 or a 2.0? And is it manual or auto A/C?
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Thursday, July 11th, 2019 AT 9:25 AM
Tiny
VIOLA SHUMAN
  • MEMBER
  • 8 POSTS
I think it’s a 1.6. Manual A/C.
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Thursday, July 11th, 2019 AT 9:25 AM
Tiny
BMDOUBLE
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Here are the fuse and relays for your car highlighted in green. The smaller ones are the fuses, fuse 23 is a 5 amp fuse and 34 is a 10 amp fuse, a quick check of these should be done just to make sure they are not blown. The relay sometimes can be swapped with another relay as long as it looks exactly the same and it is oriented in the same position. I would just snap a picture before removing anything. I'll do some more digging during the day.
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Thursday, July 11th, 2019 AT 9:59 AM
Tiny
VIOLA SHUMAN
  • MEMBER
  • 8 POSTS
Shoo okay! I’m going to wait for it to cool off a little outside before I go digging around under the hood. Do I need to disconnect the battery before I go poking around in there?
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Thursday, July 11th, 2019 AT 10:29 AM
Tiny
VIOLA SHUMAN
  • MEMBER
  • 8 POSTS
Okay, I checked the fuses under the hood and it all looks fine. Nothing blown. Blah.
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Thursday, July 11th, 2019 AT 12:32 PM
Tiny
BMDOUBLE
  • MECHANIC
  • 1,139 POSTS
Okay, the next step would be to retrieve the trouble codes in the power-train control module and the HVAC module. Another quick and easy thing to try is to disconnect the battery for 5 minutes, reconnect then turn your key to the on position (push start button 2 times if it's a push to start system) then cycle the a/c temp adjustment from hot to cold a couple of times, the reason I'm having you try this is because Ford had a technical bulletin for a similar issue but the fix at the dealership was to reprogram the HVAC module (which can only be done at the dealership). The revised programming was supposed to resolve a battery drain and an A/C inop issue, but sometimes a weak battery can put the HVAC temperature blend door system out of calibration so doing a quick hot-to-cold with the controls may resolve it, it's worth a shot and it's free. If this does not resolve the issue, codes are going to have to be retrieved. I'm sorry we're not getting anywhere but I'm pulling out all of the stops lol.
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Friday, July 12th, 2019 AT 10:21 AM

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