Runs rough and sometimes shuts off

Tiny
MATT-_BROWN
  • MEMBER
  • 2019 FORD F-150
  • 5.0L
  • V8
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 36,500 MILES
My truck (XLT model) starts and drives fine, but one day I was going through Atlanta when I got to a stop light and it just shut off on me and I have noticed it a lot more since then and it just idles really rough and sometimes cuts off on me. I took it to the dealer and they said I had a bad coil on 7. So they replaced it and it still is doing what it was before. I have no check engine light on.
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Thursday, March 19th, 2020 AT 3:50 AM

26 Replies

Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • EXPERT
Good morning,

If they saw the misfire at the cylinder, do you know if they did a compression test?

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-engine-compression

Did they replace the plug as well?

The check engine light will come on as soon as it misses the number of times for misfires.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-misfires-or-runs-rough

Roy
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Thursday, March 19th, 2020 AT 5:14 AM
Tiny
KASEKENNY
  • EXPERT
So I am curious if they gave you any information about why they found the coil was the issue? Clearly if it is running rough we would think a misfire is the issue but on a 2019 they have really good misfire detection. So the fact that it is not setting a misfire code, I suspect we have another issue that feels like a misfire. Something like a vacuum leak.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-use-an-engine-vacuum-gauge

However, again due it being a new vehicle we have really good system monitoring so even a vacuum leak should cause the PCM to set a code. This is leading me to think we have a sensor issue like a MAF or IAT that is wrong throwing off the air/fuel mixture causing a rough running condition.

At this point, do you have any way of monitoring o2 sensor data to see if the engine is actually running rich or lean when this happens?

If not, we clearly need to get it back to the dealer. I would suggest taking the adviser or tech for a ride with you to show them what it is doing.

Let me know and we can go from there. Thanks
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Thursday, March 19th, 2020 AT 5:25 AM
Tiny
MATT-_BROWN
  • MEMBER
I don't have a way to monitor that, but it was under warranty and they gave me the run around and said that I told them it was misfiring and that was it so they "fixed" it and didn't check for anything else. Normally if it was a vacuum leak you could spray brake cleaner and find the leak with the engine revving up right? Honestly I have just been trying to figure it out because it's bugging me and I need a good running truck. Thanks for the input. I am going to put a scanner on it today and see if there is any codes that pop up even though the light isn't on.
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Thursday, March 19th, 2020 AT 12:09 PM
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • EXPERT
Did anyone check the compression when they had it?

I doubt you will see a code since the light is not on.

You need to go to mode 6 on your scan tool to see which cylinder is not firing.

Roy
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Thursday, March 19th, 2020 AT 12:15 PM
Tiny
MATT-_BROWN
  • MEMBER
They never told me they did a compression check, so I am not sure if they did or not. But I might be able to get one done soon.
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Thursday, March 19th, 2020 AT 12:44 PM
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • EXPERT
I would get it checked. That is the first thing they should have done when you presented it to them.

Roy
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Thursday, March 19th, 2020 AT 12:50 PM
Tiny
MATT-_BROWN
  • MEMBER
I'm going to try to run a compression test on it when I get home tonight and I will let you know what the PSI is on each one.
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Thursday, March 19th, 2020 AT 3:30 PM
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • EXPERT
Sounds like a plan.

Roy
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Thursday, March 19th, 2020 AT 3:32 PM
Tiny
MATT-_BROWN
  • MEMBER
I was going to do the compression test and I took one plug out and had oil all over the threads so hopefully it should be covered under the 5 year 60,000 miles power-train warranty. I'm just going to let the dealer figure it out and save me some trouble.
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Thursday, March 19th, 2020 AT 6:42 PM
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • EXPERT
Good idea. I would request a free rental car from them for the duration of the repair.

Roy
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Friday, March 20th, 2020 AT 4:45 AM
Tiny
MATT-_BROWN
  • MEMBER
I tried that last time and they said they didn't have any and couldn't get me one.
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Friday, March 20th, 2020 AT 5:17 AM
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • EXPERT
They can do it. It is just a choice they make. Not good for customer service when they decline this.

Roy
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Friday, March 20th, 2020 AT 5:24 AM
Tiny
KASEKENNY
  • EXPERT
Just a suggestion after reading the last few posts from you and Roy. Not only do they want to do what Roy said but depending on the results they need to find where that oil is coming from. Assuming they replaced the plug when they did the coil, for it to be oil fouled this soon shows a pretty good leak. I would leave that plug in there so they can find it and make sure they understand that it stalls as well. A misfire on one cylinder will not cause a stall which is why I am thinking there is a larger engine issue.
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Friday, March 20th, 2020 AT 7:31 AM
Tiny
WES WRIGHT
  • MEMBER
  • 2009 FORD F-150
  • 4.6L
  • V8
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 240,000 MILES
Changed out bank 1 camshaft and one follower. Also changed spark plugs and coils. I also changed both VCT solenoids. When I put the cam phaser back on I measured the gap between the phaser sprocket and the front cam cap and it measured 18mm which is the correct measurement. Now when running the engine it has a rough idle and check engine light has come on. Scanned the engine and found the following codes, P0022, PO303, P2007, P2006, P0300, P0341. I disconnected the VCT solenoids but it still has a rough idle have you any idea? I might add that the engine ran fine but I thought the VCT solenoids were faulty. The cam shaft needed changing cause I heard a tapping coming from bank 1 I pulled the valve cover and found number one cylinder exhaust follower had stopped working and wiped the lobe on the cam. What are your thoughts?
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Tuesday, December 15th, 2020 AT 3:25 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KEN L
  • ADMIN
Hello,

The cam lobe being gone will cause the rough running and the code P0022 is telling you the cam phaser is not working/holding oil or getting enough oil pressure. Is the oil level full correct weight freshly changed? I have seen all of these cause the problems with the phaser. Here are diagrams to help you get the camshaft and camshaft actuators changed out. You should do the chains while you are in there.

Check out the diagrams (below). Let us know what happens and please upload pictures or videos of the problem.

Cheers, Ken
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Tuesday, December 15th, 2020 AT 3:25 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BEKAIS
  • MEMBER
  • 2006 FORD F-150
  • V8
  • 4WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 58,000 MILES
I have a 2006 ford f150 4x4 with an automatic transmission. On my way to town tonight, it ran fine for the first 8 miles or so, then, as soon as I got to the first stop light, I noticed some serious vibration while idling. I went through the light and pulled into a parking lot where I could assess the situation better. It was idling at approx 500rpm, and seeming to be running on several of the 8 cylinders. My "check engine" light began flashing as well. I revved up the engine to see if it would clear up, and it seemed to, so I continued driving, as I only had another mile or two to go. Power was 80% gone, struggling to accelerate, with a crazy vibration throughout the pickup. I also noticed a smell in the cab that smelled like a cars' exhaust in the cold morning ( like it's burning rich or something ), or something sweet like. Before I made it to my destination, I stopped again to try and give it a break, crutching my way. I let is sit for 5 minutes, then attempted to start it. It took a lot of cranks to fire up (10 seconds ), but it did. I got to my destination and shut it off. Its dark, and Im not a mechanic, so any suggestions? I'm what you'd call "concerned". Thank You!
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Tuesday, December 15th, 2020 AT 3:26 PM (Merged)
Tiny
WINDOZ
  • MEMBER
I had a similar problem with my 4.2 v6. You would do weill to relpace the spark plugs. My number four cylinder was buring (literally eating up the electrode) up plugs way before the other cylinders. I don't know why, especially when my wires were fairly new. Check your plugs--it will probably the cheapest repair you'll ever make! Be sure to replace with OEM quality or better!
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Tuesday, December 15th, 2020 AT 3:26 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BEKAIS
  • MEMBER
Took it to a mechanic this morning and he diagnosed it. It ended up being the PCM (computer) malfunctioning, keeping cylinders 2, 3, and 4 from firing. Thankfully fords have a 8 year / 80,000 mile warranty on the PCM, so I'm in the clear! Oh, and the rich sweet smell I smelled was unburnt fuel from those cylinders that weren't firing, all coming out of the exhaust.
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Tuesday, December 15th, 2020 AT 3:26 PM (Merged)
Tiny
WINDOZ
  • MEMBER
When you said sweet smell, well I knew that was unburnt hydrocarbons / fuel! It is amazing it still ran at all. I am glad you resolved your issue.
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Tuesday, December 15th, 2020 AT 3:26 PM (Merged)
Tiny
FOGUIE MCKINNIE
  • MEMBER
  • 2005 FORD F-150
  • 60,000 MILES
I have a 2005 f-150 with 3.5 engine I got a code po352 ignition coil b primary/ secondary circuit malfunction what could cause this it run rough and have no power run good when you fist start it up
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Tuesday, December 15th, 2020 AT 3:26 PM (Merged)

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