Air intake temperature sensor code?

What is the exact fault code number? If the ignition switch was turned on while the IAT sensor was unplugged, the computer will set a code for "sensor voltage too high". If that did not involve turning the ignition switch on, the better suspect is a connector terminal got bent over or stretched. Let me know the code number when you find it.

Do you have access to a digital voltmeter and know how to use it?

Take your time. I stopped while on my way to visit a friend in the hospital, so I won't be back for a few hours.

Dandy. That code is consistent with the sensor being unplugged or there's a break in a wire. To diagnose this circuit, it is important to understand voltage readings are only valid when the sensor is plugged in. That means voltages must be taken by back-probing through the rubber weather seals around each wire in the connector.

Back-probe the dark blue / green wire. The meter's black, negative probe must be on a paint and rust-free point on the engine, or on the battery's negative post, and the ignition switch must be in "run".

The acceptable range of voltages is between 0.5 and 4.5 volts, but more likely you'll find it's around 2.2 to, ... Oh, ... Around 3.8 volts. The point is it can't be 0.0 volts, (that sets the code for "sensor voltage too low"), and it can't be 5.0 volts, (that triggers the code for "voltage too high").

If the voltage is within the acceptable range, we're done with the diagnosis. The circuit is working properly, then it's just a matter of erasing the fault code.

Code P0113 says the computer saw 5.0 volts on that wire. That will happen when the connector is unplugged while the ignition switch is on. If you find 5.0 volts now, with it plugged in, measure the voltage on the brown / white wire, also by back-probing it through its rubber seal. Here you should expect to find 0.2 volts. That is likely to be okay because that is the ground circuit that is shared with the coolant temperature sensor. If that wire was broken, you'd have fault codes for both sensors.

If you find 5.0 volts, or very close to it, on the dark blue / green wire, and 0.2 volts on the brown / white wire, one or both terminals in the sensor are not making contact with its mate in the connector. This can also be caused by a defective sensor, but that would much less likely. Temperature sensors have just one component inside them, with an extremely low failure rate. A continuity test will verify if the sensor got broken inside. Let me know if you need help measuring that.

3.2 volts is perfect. That can only occur when the entire circuit is intact with no broken wires or connections. Now the fault code is the concern. You can tell the severity of a code by how the Check Engine light acts. It will turn on when the sensor is unplugged because when the computer doesn't know air temperature, it can't fine tune fuel metering, so emissions might increase. If you make this look like an intermittent problem by plugging the sensor back in while the engine is running, if it's a low-level code, the light will turn off. The code will still be there, but the absence of the light means the defect is not there right now.

When it's a little more serious but the problem goes away, the Check Engine light will remain on for the rest of that drive cycle. It will turn off the next time you start the engine, and not turn on again until the problem occurs.

There are additional steps for more serious codes, but in all cases, even though the light may be off, the code will remain in memory. In the past it was common to erase codes by disconnecting the battery's negative cable for a minute, but that's not the most desirable way to do it as it also erases all the learned fuel trim data. Also, there are a few computers that won't erase codes by any other means than by commanding them to do so with a scanner. For Chrysler, in my experience that has mostly applied to Air Bag Computers.

On older Chryslers fault codes would self-erase if the problem didn't reoccur after 50 engine starts. I have two 2014 models, a Ram and a Caravan, but I never waited or checked to see if codes self-erased. I always use a scanner to do that. Some code readers can erase them too, especially the newer ones.

I wouldn't buy a scanner just for that one code unless you'll have more use of it later. I have a Chrysler DRB3 for all of my older vehicles. For the newer ones, my friend has a Snapon Solus Edge that I liked using, so I got one on eBay. Snapon is very proud of their products and charges way too much for annual updates. Mine was updated to current when I bought it in 2018, and I have no plans to pay for additional updates. That can work in your favor. By the time a shop lets theirs get five or six years out-of-date, it's less expensive to just buy a brand new model, but be warned, they charge extra for Asian import coverage and again for European import coverage. Once these are out of date enough, the prices drop quite a bit, but they still work fine. Last time I looked a couple of years ago, you could get one about six years out-of-date for around $700.00. That was about one sixth the cost of a new one.

Autel makes some nice scanners too for a lot lower cost. Harbor Freight Tools sells them, but I got mine for much less on eBay. My model was just a thick tablet that needed to have scanner software downloaded, then you can select all the manufacturers you want from all over the world. I followed the instructions and everything downloaded perfectly on the first try. Scanner software took almost an hour, then each car brand took from a few seconds to about one minute. I haven't used it much yet, but so far it seems to be rather easy to read and use.

There's other scanner brands out there, but Autel seems to have the largest number of satisfied users.

In rereading this, I just noticed in your photos, the intake air temp, (IAT) sensor is listed at minus 40 degrees. For most models that is the default value when there's a break in the circuit. That is what will show up when the sensor is unplugged. Is this reading with the sensor plugged in or disconnected? It should change when you move the plug.

Something else to consider is the Check Engine light might only turn on when the engine is running, for this code.

As for scanners, I found these links to videos showing some models. I haven't used these, but it might give you some ideas of what to look for:

https://youtu.be/XY-1CsAzrFA

https://youtu.be/Mb7whGkD8vw

https://youtu.be/jr_Iv8T_Phk