Of all I have searched the forums and read for hours and could not find the answers I needed so,
My sister's vehicle "jet" died today. When I got there it had no battery power, the alternator was very hot, and she said she smelled something burning before it lost power.
I took the battery to Sears at the mall where she was and battery tested bad, so since it was under warranty from a replacement at Advanced Auto two years ago but and it had a three year the replacement warranty I got a free new Battery from Advanced after having to him confirm it was bad.
After putting in battery and starting it I noticed the alternator had a whining sound and was still very hot, and dialectic grease was oozing from the crimp connector at the back of the alternator so we drove it down the street to AutoZone and found the alternator was only putting out 10 (ten) volts so we bought a new one.
I installed the new alternator and the battery light was still on. I had them check it and they said the voltage regulator failed, so thinking the voltage regulator was in the back of the alternator I took it off, went to another AutoZone since I bought the last one in stock, had them test it and it FAILED the test (brand new) so I got a new one.
I installed the newer Alternator, and the battery light was still on. I had them check the charging system and they showed 12.8 off, and 13.8 running with a pulse of ten something which is all good but voltage regulator failed.
I had him check the battery charge percentage and their equipment said 54%. So I let it run for five minutes and had him check it again and it was up to 95% so I got it home where I rechecked everything after driving it in rain with lights and air conditioner and phone charging with the radio on.
When I checked it the battery showed 100% charge, 12.8 off and 13.9 on and it would jump to 14.0 momentarily if I turned on lights or accessories.
After messing with the ground under battery tray I started it and no light so I cleaned the ground real good, put it back together and the light came back on after a few seconds. I had to remove the battery tray be to get to it and the fuse box under the hood so I inspected and wiggled every wire and connector and checked all fuses related to power and found no problems
Still at same readings - 12.8 off. 13.9 on 100% charged.
When the old Alternator got hot the wires coming from it were hot and sticky. So I have checked those wires and none seem shorted out or damaged.
After putting in battery initially the starter was acting strange and was kicking in and out several times trying to turn engine, but once it started up it never did it again so I was suspicious of the big red power wire to starter but it all looks good. I just figured since the wires had got hot maybe I be of the crimp connectors melted loose but no problem found.
When I removed the old alternator it was scorching hot after sitting an hour and I have burned up hands to prove it.
Obviously something is wrong, but I do not suspect the PCM/ECM because it is regulating the power properly and it is charging the battery etc.
I am looking for a burnt wire or bad ground and do not know where to start. I suspect the two small wires off the back of alternator (green and white with stripe. I read somewhere that one of those wires goes to the ignition switch and my sister did say she smelled burning in the car and it died as she was trying to get it off the road and out of traffic.
Today I checked battery and it was at 13.0 and went to 14.3 when running but light still on.
So without assuming that a capacitor in the PCM is fried where should I be looking for an issue?
(It does not have a battery temperature sensor OR any codes in PCM whatsoever)
Please help she is visiting from Washington DC with three kids and no money.
have the same problem?
Saturday, July 23rd, 2016 AT 10:25 AM