Engine suddenly stopping

Tiny
DPROPESOR
  • MEMBER
  • 2008 KIA RIO
  • 1.4L
  • 4 CYL
  • MANUAL
  • 57,000 MILES
On September 29 this year, when I was about to leave our school parking lot, I was backing away from my parking slot when all of a sudden the engine stopped. I started the engine and it worked and I was able to go home. Sunday, October 4, after attending church, we stopped by drugstore to buy medicine when all of a sudden the engine stopped again. But this time the engine would never start after 10 tries. So I have the car pushed to make it start, but nothing happened after 4 tries. Then, after resting for about 10 minutes, the engine started when I turned on the key. We went home. The next day, September 28, just as I was about to park on my usual parking slot, the engine died again. The security guards and a janitor help push the car to the parking slot. In the evening we were able to go home without engine trouble.
The next day had no trouble again. But on Wednesday morning, when I was about to park the car on my slot, the engine died, but, it was a good thing I was almost finished positioning the car. I turned the key, nothing. In the evening, I started the engine and observed. The engine died after 15 minutes. Then after 30 minutes it turned on with just 1 click of the key. After about 8 minutes of travel the engine went out when we were slowing down along the spillway and the gas pedal was released. Good thing we were downhill and I was able to park properly. Waited for thirty minutes and we were able to make to our house which was just about 600 meters away from where we stopped. The next day, almost the same things happened.
So on October 3, I brought the car to a mechanic who was referred to us, the mechanic claims he is an expert with Hyundai and Kia cars. He said that the probable problem is the crankshaft sensor, camshaft sensor, tension wire, and the coil. But he said, it could be that everything just needed cleaning, and so he did, and even change the sparkplugs and the gasoline hose. He never checked the tension wires. After a few kilometers of test drive of more than 30 minutes, the engine never died out. So were charged 1,500 pesos (roughly about $32). There was no trouble on our way, which actually took us 30 minutes because of heavy traffic.
On Monday, October 5, the same thing happened to the car as it was on September 28. We never used the car until October 10 when we brought back the car to the mechanic. He replaced the camshaft sensor with a brand new original one and engine oil was changed. On our way home, the car stopped. But I didn’t bother to bring it back to that mechanic because I realized that he does probably does not fully know how to diagnose the car and was just doing a trial and error.
The car was not used for a week again until October 17 when we brought it to a decent-looking car repair shop with seemingly-complete equipments and facilities. The mechanics there told us that the sensors couldn't be the culprit but the ignition coil. That according to them was based on their rich experience in repairing cars. In short, after a computer diagnostic showed no other problem with all the other computer-connected parts, they have the ignition coil replaced with a brand new, original. After drive-testing the car for a few kilometers and keeping the engine running for more than an hour, they declared that problem was fixed.
The next day, October 19, on our way to the church, the engine stopped again when I slowed down to turn right to a corner. The car was pushed to the side. Then the engine turned on again after 20 minutes or so and was able to park near the church. After the church the engine started again then went dead again after 8 minutes. It took us 3 hours to get home because of the repeated turn-on/turn-off. The car was only used again on October 24 when I brought it back to the repair shop. For an additional service fee, one of the mechanics replaced the tension wire, and allegedly adjusted the throttle. The engine went out again on my way home.
I decided not to bring it back to them because it was my second visit already and nothing happened, and that they were telling me that if the engine goes off again then they will do something more but this time for a higher service fee, aside of course from parts price.
Can you give me an idea what could be wrong before I bring it to a KIA service? We have a bad experience with big KIA service center along E. Rodriguez Ave, QC. We had our car checked and repaired there about a year ago. We were charged Php7,000 (about $150), but turned out that they were not able to fix the problem because problem was the bendix (we have the whole starter assembly replaced with a brand new and that fixed the problem). Thanks

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Sunday, November 8th, 2015 AT 6:04 PM

22 Replies

Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
Hello,

This sounds like the car is going into limp mode due to a dirty throttle bore, here is a guide to help you fix the problem

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/reduced-power-limp-mode

we should run the codes as well

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/checking-a-service-engine-soon-or-check-engine-light-on-or-flashing

Please run down these guides and report back.
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Sunday, November 8th, 2015 AT 6:21 PM
Tiny
GBOOKER
  • MEMBER
I had this problem and had to replace the PCM, cost me $540.00
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Thursday, May 30th, 2019 AT 2:52 PM
Tiny
CJLLOVELESS
  • MEMBER
  • 2005 KIA RIO
  • 60,000 MILES
The first time I start my car it will idle for awhile (like 10 minutes) before it sputters out and dies. From there on out every time you start it it will almost immediatly try and sputter and die. If you rev the gas pedal it will stay running until u take your foot off of the gas. It almost sounds to me like its getting starved for gas after a brief time. I was going to change the fuel filter but after much searching and researching there is none to be found. I also thought it might be the fuel pump but I can here it coming on when I turn the key over. Before this issue when I would start the car cold it would not want to eccelerate untill I reved on the gas for a bit. Seems like that was possibly the beginning of the same problem. Any ideas?
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Thursday, May 30th, 2019 AT 2:53 PM (Merged)
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
  • EXPERT
The first thing we need to check is have the computer scanned for codes. If there are any codes please post the exact code numbers not code descriptions. The code will have a P followed by a four digit number. Also just because you can hear the fuel pump running doesnt mean that the pump is delivering the correct fuel pressure.
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Thursday, May 30th, 2019 AT 2:53 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CJLLOVELESS
  • MEMBER
There were a ton of codes on the car but since someof them had been there for a long time I cleared them in hopes that only the ones causing the current issue would come back right away. Unfotunatly now I cant keep the car running long enough for them to come back on. I cant remember the exact codes but I can remember roughly what they said. 1 was something regarding the fuel being lean. Another one said something about cyliner 3 misfire (i think).
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Thursday, May 30th, 2019 AT 2:53 PM (Merged)
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
  • EXPERT
Then lets start by checking fuel pressure that cause a lean code and a no start if the fuel pressure was too low.
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Thursday, May 30th, 2019 AT 2:53 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CJLLOVELESS
  • MEMBER
IS there anyway to do that without a fuel pressure gauge? Also the car does start everytime it will just quickly die out withing 5-10 seconds without pressure to the gas pedal.
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Thursday, May 30th, 2019 AT 2:53 PM (Merged)
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
  • EXPERT
No you cant check fuel pressure without a fuel pressure gauge. They rent fuel pressure gauges at auto zone you can also check fuel pressure without the car running.
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Thursday, May 30th, 2019 AT 2:53 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CJLLOVELESS
  • MEMBER
I have rented a fuel pressure tester from a auto store but It does not seem like any of the connectors fit. Im not sure If I am connecting to the right thing but I think I am. Any idea on the location of this or If a standard test kit would have the correct adapter? There are two lines I was trying to connect it too. They both had ports that came off with caps that unscrew. One cap had a "H" and one had a "L".
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Thursday, May 30th, 2019 AT 2:53 PM (Merged)
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
  • EXPERT
The line that goes to fuel rail where the injectors plug in should be the pressure side. The return line should be to the rear of the fuel rail. Also usually the pressure line is always bigger then the return line.
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Thursday, May 30th, 2019 AT 2:53 PM (Merged)
Tiny
DUONEB1
  • MEMBER
  • 2005 KIA RIO
  • 76,000 MILES
We had been on really bumpy roads The Desert, and on the way back on the highway it just stopped running, any Ideas? Not much else except out here roads in the desert are driven in cars all the time. Wire came loose?
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Thursday, May 30th, 2019 AT 2:53 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • EXPERT
Are you saying it cranks over and will not start?
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Thursday, May 30th, 2019 AT 2:53 PM (Merged)
Tiny
DUONEB1
  • MEMBER
It wont even crank, tested the starter and the alt all good.
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Thursday, May 30th, 2019 AT 2:53 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • EXPERT
Go to this link for more information:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/car-engine-will-not-crank-over
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Thursday, May 30th, 2019 AT 2:53 PM (Merged)
Tiny
BIGDADDY56
  • MEMBER
  • 2004 KIA RIO
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 35,000 MILES
My kia rio runs fine when the weather is clear and sunny. When it rains, or is very foggy, it will start right up, drive fine for several miles and die without any warning, even when going 60 or 70 MPH. Its not the fuel filter. Sometimes when it does this, it will start in 5 or 10 minutes and not have a problem anymore. Sometimes it takes 20 or 40 minutes to restart and will continue to die. Sometimes it will start if you depress the accelerator to the floor and will surge or chug at 10 to 15 miles an hour, but if you let off the accelerator, it dies. It codes when this happens, but the code light vanishes when it restarts and runs correctly. I tried spraying water on all the wire connections under the hood but could not duplicate it. Kia techs have no clue. Help please
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Thursday, May 30th, 2019 AT 2:53 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
Check the crank sensor to see if it is arcing and let me know what you find. Spray water on it to see if that changes things.
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Thursday, May 30th, 2019 AT 2:53 PM (Merged)
Tiny
METTER
  • MEMBER
  • 2005 KIA RIO
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 10,300 MILES
Its stalls when I get to a light, a stop sign, when I make a turn, when I put it in reverse, when it goes below 10mph. I have it at the shop now, but they are telling me that my plugs and my timing belt are whats making it stall.I'm may be a woman but I know a thing or two about vehicles and they are full of it. The timing belt was replaced when I had the motor replaced 25k miles ago. And I know that the plugs were replaced as well.I know that the plugs may be going bad since I start it so much when it stalls. I think it's fuel related. But I need some expert advice. It's not electrical because my check engine light isn't on and don't come on unless it's getting ready to stall. Please help me.
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Thursday, May 30th, 2019 AT 2:53 PM (Merged)
Tiny
DGAGNE
  • MEMBER
I read in some forum that these cars sometimes have issues with the fuel rail so maybe it's that.

Also what about replacing the fuel filter and getting the fuel injectors cleaned?

Think that might help?

I have had two Rios before, a 2001 and a 2005 and the 2001 (automatic) would sometimes stall at stop signs or while going slow. It almost seemed like something was pulling the engine to a stop, like something mechanical. I thought maybe it was the tranny getting stuck in 2nd and then stalling out when I went slower but who knows, it could have also been a belt or something. Let me know if you find out what it is.

Fred. Eval@yahoo. Com
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Thursday, May 30th, 2019 AT 2:53 PM (Merged)
Tiny
LIA04
  • MEMBER
  • 2009 KIA RIO
  • 52,000 MILES
I drive a 2009 Kia Rio. It's standard transmission. For about 2.5 years I have been dealing with an intermittent starting problem. The car will start and then die and stall. Sometimes I cannot get it to kick over for about 10 minutes. I've had the immobilizer and the fuel pump replaced under warranty. To prevent this from happening (and it usually works) I will and/or pump the gas pedal before I start the car, when the car is about to turn over I will flood the gas pedal and get the rpm's up around 5000 so as to prevent the car from stalling. I'm a college student that bought this car brand new and am at my wits end. I can't afford time or stress on this. PLEASE help!
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Thursday, May 30th, 2019 AT 2:53 PM (Merged)
Tiny
RIVERMIKERAT
  • EXPERT
Have it scanned for codes and check the fuel pressure. Both can be done for free. Many part stores will loan or rent tools such as these.
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Thursday, May 30th, 2019 AT 2:53 PM (Merged)

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