A/C compressor replacement?

As I have stated I am pretty sure it's on the A/C, I really wanted to know if it is replaceable on the A/C compressor because the A/C works so well?

Let me ask this way then, there is a clutch assembly on the A/C is this valve in that assembly to were I can replace it or do I need to replace the whole A/C compressor. Sound like a circuit or something exterior to the compressor that controls the the A/C load Idle up. Is the A/C pump in two different parts, I have to know is this part replaceable with out entering the Freon system of the A/C?
Thank you, Steve

I am writing this because the website clearly states that if you are not
satisfied with the answer you get then the site will refund your money. I have
had to ask three times and the third time I am not getting an answer in a timely
fashion. The answer is all but the one question I would like to know. If I do
not get a responds by the end of the day (which I think is more then fair) then
I will be forced to claim faults advertising with the Better Business Bureau.
Question: Can I replace more than one part on the A/C compressor of a 1997
Toyota Camry?

Thank you,
Steve

Compressor Pulley seemed wobbly when clutch was engaged. I removed the clutch and cleaned up the parts. The Pulley bearing seems o.K. And the driveshaft stable. There was a lot of buildup on the magnet which I removed and left smooth. I'm wanting to reassemble but am at odds as how to make sure that the outer plate was properly shimmed and if I should add a lock washer on the retaining bolt in case it had come loose. It would seem that the outer plate shifts in to engage the pulley/plate. How does it do that if it its bolted onto the drive shaft. Like wise the pulley appears fixed. I don't get it what am I missing? I'm an aircraft mechanic and dont deal with a/c parts. Help!

When I went to reassemble I found that the boss that the inner part of the pulley bearing mounts on was worn & oblong. I mounted it with JB weld and its firm. Let's see how long it lasts. I think its worth a shot since the clutch and all else works fine. Thanks anyway for your website. A1metalman

Hello Bob, Ken, and Team! I have made several contributions and I have spread the word of you're awesome web-site. I have a bit of a problem, and I can really use you're help now more than ever before. To begin with my car tends to idle (Shaking of steering wheel and engine) What do you think can be causing this, and what can I do to stop it? Second, I have taken my car to the mechanic several times in regards to my A.C. The first time he vacumed the A.C. And filled it with free-on and dye, and spotted no leaks. The second time I brought it back he said he saw a small leak near the compressor, so he replaced the compressor with a new one and he also replaced the freeze dryer, and it's still not working. Now he is saying that it needs a new condensor because it is worn out and he sees a small leak coming from it, he also stated that he has not checked the evaporator by the dash. What action can I take in regards to this situation? I know I'm asking a great deal of information, but I assure you that you will be well compensated for your in depth professional suggestions and advice! Sincerely, R. Molina

AC Compressor is making noise and shop wants to replace the compressor for $550. I don't need the AC and want to bypass it but Toyota said they couldn't do it. What size belt do I need to do this and what do I need to remove or add to get the belt to route correctly?

I also emailed my Uncle who is a great mechanic and here was his response:

First off the Camry probably was not offered from the factory without A/C. Its a standard feature. That is way Napa doesn't list a belt for one without A/C. I've been down this road several times. It is very difficult to try to route around the A/C. I"v never been able to do it without a major expense. If the car was offered from the factory without A/C then it's different. You can purchase the different tensioners or idlers and go round it like they did. Your in a pickle. The cheapest thing I think you can do is have someone replace the bearing in the hub. I assume thats what is making the noise. You should not have to buy the entire compressor if just the bearing failed. Someone should be able to take it apart, find a bearing and replace it. At this point you don't have to put the clutch back on, just run the pump as an idler.

My car's A/C is fine all day, even in Phoenix summers, but after we get a rain and it gets humid the A/C light will go out and I can hear the clutch disengage. As soon as I depress the button for the A/C the clutch engages again, even with the blower motor off. I have experienced the more common problem with the A/C light where you drive through a puddle it starts blinking and this is a little different. It is not stuck though because when I press the button to activate the clutch it disengages. Not sure if anyone has an idea or has encountered something like this. The only information I could get was to replace the relay, which I did and got the same thing happen. Any ideas appreciated.

I do. I probably should have mentioned I replaced the compressor with clutch April 2017 along with the expansion valve and drier. The pressure on the low side is about 40-45 and the high side is about 225-250. Runs normally in the heat but as soon as it gets muggy out the clutch acts up.

Right now it is a mild 98°F.

Well, if I run it with any less Freon it will not run cold. I am not trying to figure out if I have too much Freon in the system or that my condenser/evaporator is clogged and needs to be replaced. Unless too much Freon will cause the clutch to activate when I have the button off and deactivate when the button is on, I am at a loss.

The drier is hot and I do not have access to a hose at the moment but a fan will also lower pressures. They both remove heat from the system and will either way lower pressure. Can you tell me why you want to know if they lower?