2007 Jeep Wrangler Will not start

Tiny
OU8121965
  • MEMBER
  • 2007 JEEP WRANGLER
  • 85,000 MILES
I have an 2007 Jeep Wrangler. I knew the battery was on its way out. My Jeep would still start but you could tell it was going. I removed the battery from my jeep and replaced it with another battery out of my P/up. Its was not the same CCA but I hoped it would work. And of course it did not. The lights would work the radio would work but it would not crank.

I went out and bought a new battery and once again it would not start. I had lights, radio etc. The auto part store said it might be the Neutral Safety Switch. Would anyone know were this is located? My Jeep is a 2007 and it is a stick shift. If you have any info please also send to my home email at shcerillo@cox. Net. Thank you.


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Friday, September 27th, 2013 AT 1:56 AM

5 Replies

Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • EXPERT
The problem isn't the battery or the neutral safety switch. Neutral safety switches are used with automatic transmissions. You will have a clutch pedal switch, and it's unlikely it failed from replacing the battery.

Most likely it is in anti-theft mode. Most mechanics use some type of memory saver when they disconnect the battery to prevent loss of memories in the many computer modules. First try locking, then unlocking the doors with the key fob. If that isn't working, unlock a front door with the key.

There is a different cause if you hear a single rather loud clunk from the starter each time you turn the ignition switch to "crank".
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Friday, September 27th, 2013 AT 2:10 AM
Tiny
OU8121965
  • MEMBER
My jeep is a manual shift, 6 spd. I dont have power doors.
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Friday, September 27th, 2013 AT 3:51 AM
Tiny
OU8121965
  • MEMBER
So since I don't have an automatic does that mean I don't have a NSS. If you think it may be a anti theft problem how do I try and fix it? I read your above statement but I don't have power locks everything is manual. Thank you.
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Friday, September 27th, 2013 AT 6:07 AM
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • EXPERT
I'm going on the assumption all newer vehicles have an anti-theft system, but that may not be the case with yours. As I recall, the anti-theft system was part of a package that included power locks. Regardless, there are a lot of things built in now that will prevent the engine from starting if programming is lost in a computer or if the Body Computer can't communicate with all the other computers to turn them on when you turn on the ignition switch. Usually if that happens you will see a message "no buss" in the odometer display.

The first thing is to check the fuses under the hood and inside. It is common for one or two to blow from the surge when a battery is reconnected.

By the way, you mentioned installing a battery with a different CCA rating. This is one time when "bigger is better", but smaller is often still better than what came as original equipment. A higher CCA rating just means that battery can deliver a higher amount of current if it is needed. It will not deliver any more current than what is needed. You need about 350 CCA, (cold cranking amps), to start the engine on a cold day. Most original batteries are in the area of 650 CCA. You can buy one with as much as 1000 CCA or even more, but you're paying a lot more for power you will never need or use.
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Saturday, September 28th, 2013 AT 1:07 AM
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • EXPERT
DID YOU GET 'ER DONE?

IF NOT, MAYBE SOMETHING IN HERE MIGHT HELP?

http://www.2carpros.com/questions/1996-chevrolet-tahoe-wont-start-sounds-dead-battery-jumpbox-get-same-reults

I HAVE SOME PICS AT THE END OF THE LINK

THE MEDIC

WELL OVER 7000 ANSWERS PROVIDED
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Thursday, October 3rd, 2013 AT 10:07 PM

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