I'm going on the assumption all newer vehicles have an anti-theft system, but that may not be the case with yours. As I recall, the anti-theft system was part of a package that included power locks. Regardless, there are a lot of things built in now that will prevent the engine from starting if programming is lost in a computer or if the Body Computer can't communicate with all the other computers to turn them on when you turn on the ignition switch. Usually if that happens you will see a message "no buss" in the odometer display.
The first thing is to check the fuses under the hood and inside. It is common for one or two to blow from the surge when a battery is reconnected.
By the way, you mentioned installing a battery with a different CCA rating. This is one time when "bigger is better", but smaller is often still better than what came as original equipment. A higher CCA rating just means that battery can deliver a higher amount of current if it is needed. It will not deliver any more current than what is needed. You need about 350 CCA, (cold cranking amps), to start the engine on a cold day. Most original batteries are in the area of 650 CCA. You can buy one with as much as 1000 CCA or even more, but you're paying a lot more for power you will never need or use.
Saturday, September 28th, 2013 AT 1:07 AM