My engine will not crank over why?

Tiny
MMPRINCE4000
  • MECHANIC
  • 8,549 POSTS
Start by checking fuel pressure with mechanical gauge.

Did you have a recent backfire?
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Thursday, September 5th, 2019 AT 3:24 PM (Merged)
Tiny
HUBCAPPER
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 2001 PONTIAC GRAND PRIX
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 110,000 MILES
My engine light was on for quite awhile. The guy at autozone said I could drive it for awhile w/ the light on but this part needed to be replaced. So I drove it until it left me stranded on the side of the road (I realize the errors of my ways.). Anyway, my first incident was my car dying while I was on an exit ramp of the highway. I had it towed to a shop and they said they couldn't find a problem. I took the car back and it started the trun over, die. Turn over. Die, turn over. Die. Then I took it to the shop I usually go to and they replaced this manifold intake part.

The car ran great for a week and then. It turn over, sputter die, turn over, sputter die. I was scared to death I needed a new fuel pump after just spending almost $500.00 on this job! Went back to the same shop, and they told me the part they used was faulty and they replaced my part again. Since this is the shop I normally go to I don't request to see old parts, etc. I have a problem and they fix it. Usually. So then, once again, about a week went by and the car would turn over, die. Turn over. Die (no sputtering this time). I went back to my shop and they said this time it was a bad connection and I should be good now.

One problem.I'm not good. Friday night I'm driving home and when I started my car the dashboard lights got really dim and then lit up bright twice. But the car didn't die. I knew what was going to happen but I wasn't far from home so I drove. And sure enough as I'm coasting thru and intersection, the car died on me. I got it to turn back over for me, but it did the same thing again while driving (not braking this time).

If I take it to the same shop, this will be the fourth time for the same problem. I'm to the point where I don't want to take it there now because I feel like this isn't the actual problem. I just want my car to work again. Any ideas on what is really going on? Is this part really that difficult to replace? Will my car ever work again? Or should I just bury it now and let it RIP? Please help! And thank you in advance for your help!
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Thursday, September 5th, 2019 AT 3:24 PM (Merged)
Tiny
EUGENE123
  • MECHANIC
  • 273 POSTS
Sounds like to me that your alternator is bad if your car keeps dying because its not charging
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Thursday, September 5th, 2019 AT 3:24 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CCGPGTP1
  • MEMBER
  • 3 POSTS
I doubt it would be the alternator.A cars battery runs off the charge an alternator gives it. Once the battery has completely lost it's charge, it will not restart if the alternator is not correctly functioning. Have you tried starting the car with the throttle pressed in? If so, and the car stays started, it is because you are creating a false idle. Have your IAC checked. Especially if you are creating a code. Your intake manifold should have nothing to do with your car staying started so I also advise a new mechanic for future repairs
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Thursday, September 5th, 2019 AT 3:24 PM (Merged)
Tiny
TMCASTRO6
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
  • 2001 PONTIAC GRAND PRIX
Hi, I have a 2001 Pontiac grand prix gt 3.8L apprx117000. It recently started overheating and then it all of a sudden stopped running we thought it was a bad crank sensor so we took it to the mechanic and he replaced the sensor and fuel reg. It ran fine for about 1 hr and all of a sudden white smoke started coming out of the tailpipe and now the enigine won't crank. Can someone please help me?
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Saturday, September 7th, 2019 AT 12:34 PM (Merged)
Tiny
SERVICE WRITER
  • MECHANIC
  • 9,123 POSTS
White smoke is usually an indication of burning coolant. This are common for bad intake manifolds.
Hopefully the motor is okay. Take a breaker bar and a socket that fits on the crank pulley nut and try turning over by hand. If it doesn't move, pull the spark plugs and do it again.
It may have a hydrolic lock situation where coolant enters the combustion chamber cylinder and fills with coolant. The coolant doesn't compress and the reults is what is happening. However, turning the motor over by hand may shed some light on that.
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Saturday, September 7th, 2019 AT 12:34 PM (Merged)
Tiny
TMCASTRO6
  • MEMBER
  • 2 POSTS
Could it be bad gaskets?
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Saturday, September 7th, 2019 AT 12:35 PM (Merged)
Tiny
SERVICE WRITER
  • MECHANIC
  • 9,123 POSTS
It might be head gaskets, but really doubt it. These have a plastic intake that fails near a cooling port as it can't handle the heat.

The hydrolic lock up is classic symptom on this one.
Do as I said above to confirm the lock up.

DO NOT TRY TO START THIS AGAIN UNTIL YOU KNOW : OR you may end up twisted internal parts if it hasn't already happened. 50/50 chance you'll need an engine at this point as it is now.
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Saturday, September 7th, 2019 AT 12:35 PM (Merged)

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