2006 Chrysler Sebring Loss of fuel pressure

RTS59

MEMBER
2006 CHRYSLER SEBRING
2.7L
V6
FWD
AUTOMATIC
45,000 MILES

I just replaced the fuel pump in my 06 Sebring Convertible yesterday. The car had trouble starting but ran fine. I checked the pressure with a tester & confirmed that the pump would not hold pressure. It bled-off as soon as the pump was energized and never reached specified pressure (approx 60 psi). I ordered a new Chrysler OEM pump assembly, removed the tank, & replaced the pump. I reinstalled the tank. I checked all the connections for leaks. There are no external fuel leaks.

Unfortunately the new pump exhibits the same symptoms as the original pump except the car starts fine now. It starts immediately no matter how long I leave the car sit in the off condition. But since the system isn't holding pressure I'm sure this is only temporary. The nature of the Chrysler fuel system is that there are only 2 places an internal leak can develop. In the pump assembly in the tank or in the injectors. Everything else is external. There are NO external leaks. No gasoline smell in or around the car. I REALLY don't want to remove this fuel tank again unless absolutely necessary.

Is it possible that an injector can cause the fuel pressure to bleed down immediately without any idle or driveability problems? As fast as this system loses pressure (2 - 3 seconds after pump is de-energized) implies a significant volume of fuel loss quickly. I can't believe I wouldn't smell this or suffer idle problems, or surging, missing, erratic acceleration, etc. But I have none of these things. Every fiber of my being tells me this new pump is defective & I loath to remove/replace this d#$! Thing again.

Thanks

5 Replies

CARADIODOC

MECHANIC
33,742 POSTS

If an injector was leaking that badly, you'd have a running problem too. The only thing I've ever run into that bleeds pressure that quickly is a cut o-ring on the nipple of the fuel pressure regulator, but those were on the fuel rail on the engine. Your regulator is in the tank. When those leaked on the engine, there was no gas smell because the fuel just drained back into the tank through the return line. The symptom was a long crank time because it took a few seconds for the pump to build pressure and overcome that leak, and other than the first one second after turning on the ignition switch, it only runs during cranking.

You can verify this by using a hose pinch-off pliers on the rubber hose coming off the tank or where the steel line connects to the fuel rail. If you pinch the hose, and cycle the ignition switch a couple of times, and the pressure still drops, it's pump-related, and I'd be looking at the regulator before the pump and its check valve. The good news is if you choose to ignore it, it won't affect engine performance or emissions. It just might cause an extended crank time to start.

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Monday, May 19th, 2014 AT 4:05 PM

HMAC300

MECHANIC
48,601 POSTS

Actually it sounds as if the fuel pressure regulator is the culprit was the whole module replaced or just the pump? If just the pump then you'll need to drop the tank again and replace the regulator if youcan find it without the module if just eh pump was replaced the hoseleading from pump could have been damaged and wold spray in tank. But I don't think so.

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Monday, May 19th, 2014 AT 4:07 PM

RTS59

MEMBER
5 POSTS

Thanks. The regulator is part of the pump assembly. The entire assembly was replaced as a unit, it's the only way you can buy the part from Chrysler. I rote the top of the motor apart this evening, removed the injectors & rail, & pressurized the system to look for leaks. No leaking injectors. I checked the entire length of fuel supply line last evening. No external leaks. So as you indicated the leak is in the pump assembly; either the pressure regulator or the pop-off valve. Both are in the pump assembly in the tank. I'm bummed because I now have to convince the Chrysler dealer that dealer that the new pump is defective BEFORE I have to remove this d$%! Tank AGAIN.

Thanks again for the help.

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Tuesday, May 20th, 2014 AT 4:56 PM

RTS59

MEMBER
5 POSTS

I did in fact replace the pump a 2nd time. Bummer. The 2nd new pump works MUCH better than the 1st. The car started easier the 1st time after the 2nd pump was in and the car was level on the ground. The pump now reaches spec pressure while running and holds pressure above 40 psi for well over an hour. Surprisingly it does drop to a few seconds after the car is turned off. Also, if only energizing the pump without starting the car the pump doesn't hold pressure at spec either. It drops to 40 after a few seconds and then to the low 20s after only a few minutes. But it holds there for well over an hour. I can only assume this is normal for the pump in this car. In my Dakota the pump reaches spec pressure by only energizing the pump (without starting the truck) and maintains spec pressure for well over an hour.

Anyway, just to close this out, it looks like the 2nd pump was necessary. Welcome to the new Chrysler. It now includes the phrase "fix it again Tony" right on the packaging (Fiat America).

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Saturday, May 31st, 2014 AT 1:45 PM

HMAC300