Electrical /Starter/Fuel pump Fuse Burning out

Tiny
GINALANGSTON1
  • MEMBER
  • 2001 CHRYSLER SEBRING
  • 2.7L
  • 6 CYL
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 160,000 MILES
I have a 2001 Chrysler Sebring Convertible 2.7.I have a couple questions that I need help with fast PLEASE. I have a issue with my starter/fuel pump fuse burning out and battery going dead over night and car not starting or cranking over at all so several weeks ago while taking out and checking my fuses, when I took out the one 20 amp fuse to my O2ssr/ALT/EGR fuse and put it back in again and tried starting my car it made a terrible noise and I saw a big puff of smoke come up right around the passenger side of my intake manifold /coolant bleeder valve area and looked for burnt wires but cant find anything. What do you think it could be and what should I do?
#2. Today after charging my battery I performed a Draw test and checked my fuses. While having one end of my Test light connected to my Negative terminal, I touched the other end to each of my small fuses(PDC) and all of them light up Bright except for three of them. The O2ssr/ALT/EGR, The Injector coil, and the Relays/ABS, Those 3 were very dim. Then I reversed it with connector on positive battery terminal and it was the total opposite except the spot where I removed the Stop lamp fuse( the one that was draining my Battery, it was very dim while the 3 were bright. This was the same way with Key in ON position or OFF. Now is that at all normal? If not, Please tell me what I need to do. PLEASE? Then to find the Draw in my battery I disconnected the Negative Battery and put my test light on the battery Terminal (neg) and the other end on the Neg battery cable, It light up bright, then removed one fuse at a time until light went off. Well it went off once I removed the fuse marked Stop lamps but now my electric door locks don't seem to work. What do I do?Where do I start? Can you please help me? Since I removed that stop lamps fuse my battery stay charges but still wont start or crank over and fuse still blows.
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Wednesday, December 2nd, 2015 AT 7:14 AM

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Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • EXPERT
For the short, start by looking at the wiring harness for the oxygen sensors. Sometimes a plastic clip breaks and lets the harness fall down onto hot exhaust parts where the heater wire for the sensors grounds out. That circuit is the same circuit that feeds the injectors, ignition coil pack, alternator field, and fuel pump or pump relay.

Your method of checking for a battery drain doesn't make sense. First of all, you can't use a test light. All that will tell you is if there's enough current flowing to cause the filament to glow. It takes way more current than what is allowed to do that. Second, you are going to have up to three amps of current flow after the engine is stopped, for up to twenty minutes until some computers go to "sleep" mode. A test light has too much resistance so enough current can't get through it. The computers may never go to sleep mode.

Current drain is measured with a digital amp meter, (part of a basic digital voltmeter), but there are very specific steps you have to follow.

Anything you do to momentarily break the circuit starts that 20 minute wait period all over. That includes switching the range on your ammeter. If you start out on a higher scale you won't get the necessary accuracy. If you start out on a lower scale you can pop the meter's internal fuse. On top of that, some computers can lock up after the battery is reconnected but that isn't a problem on Chrysler products and that wasn't real common yet in 2001.

The secret is to disconnect one battery cable to insert your ammeter AND connect a jumper wire across the meter to in effect short it out. Some computers might "wake up" so let the meter and jumper sit there for at least 20 minutes, then remove the jumper wire. All current will go through the ammeter so it can be measured. If you need to switch to a lower scale, put the jumper wire back in place first, switch the meter, then remove the jumper again.

Unless the manufacturer specifies differently, the industry-accepted maximum is 35 milliamps to maintain the memory circuits in the radio and computers. At that rate a good battery will still start the engine after sitting for three weeks. Slightly more than 35 milliamps won't kill the battery overnight but you don't want to see much more than that.

Typically when there is a drain, it's really a drain. You won't have to guess. You'll likely find an amp or more, especially if the battery goes dead overnight. Remove one fuse at a time to see if one makes the current drop to an acceptable level. That fuse's function will give you an idea of which component to look at. Don't forget that if you open the doors, the interior lights will turn on. You will also want to disconnect an under-hood light.

Before you go through all this work, it would make sense to be sure the generator is recharging the battery after you start the engine. Use a voltmeter to measure battery voltage. A fully-charged good battery will measure close to 12.6 volts. If you charge it with a battery charger, then let it sit overnight and it holds a charge, suspect the alternator, not a drain. If you find closer to 12.2 volts, the battery is good but discharged.
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Wednesday, December 2nd, 2015 AT 3:14 PM

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