Take a look at this; bottom one in the list:
If you look underneath, you should see one or two of the three bolt heads on the backside of the steering knuckle. Basically, you remove the wheel, axle nut, brake caliper and rotor, (don't let the caliper hang by the hose), the three bolts, then slide the assembly off. If you have a cv joint, you might have to push the shaft in against spring pressure toward the transmission to gain enough room for a socket or box wrench. If the bearing doesn't come out by banging on the hub, you can reinstall the bolts part way then bang on the heads. Usually though that is less effective than hitting the hub flange.
To avoid a possible harmless but irritating crunching sound when cornering, place a light coating of high-temperature brake grease around the hub where it contacts the center hole of the rotor. Also check the inside mounting surface of the rotor for round spots of rust buildup that correspond to access holes in the hub, if there are any. Those rust spots, if they exists, will hold the rotor from sitting squarely on the hub. That can cause a brake pedal pulsation and a wheel wobble that could be felt in the steering wheel at higher speeds.
Saturday, February 19th, 2011 AT 9:27 PM