Engine idling rough

Engine Performance problem
2003 Ford Explorer 6 cyl Two Wheel Drive Automatic 144k miles

I received a PO128 code so I replaced the thermostat. While doing this I decided to change plugs and wires. Once completed, car ran like a dream. The next day I started the car and it had rough idle and was worse when placed in drive. I have checked all vaccum lines with no leaks. Any suggestions. Thanks

Update: I found the problem.I crimped wire #3 between the bracket that holds heater hoses and the motor. Careless error.

Right on, this will definitely help, I was hoping it did not come to this, but I prepared myself for it anyway. Thanks for your help, the new PCV valve helped a little, when it runs smooth it kills me because I keep thinking it died on me, but at least I know how it should run once its fixed and it saved me from having to do it later on.

Well I just found out what the problem was with the injectors, the problem was that it wasn't them, or the harness, or anything near that. The intake has a coolant leak that is leaking into cylinder 1, the reason for the rough driving when it's cool is because coolant seeped into the cylinder and after driving it it runs the coolant out of it and it smooths out. The spark plug in it still looks like I had just put it in there because the coolant is washing it off. So my next question would be, is there a sealant I can buy that could fix this at least temporarily? I'm going to just replace the motor but that won't be till February. Thanks

Ok, I noticed it was slowly losing coolant but didn't see any leaks, I checked the oil fill cap and oil dip stick periodically and never seen any coolant in the oil, it never comes close to over heating, how long do you think it will last like this?

My truck started stalled one day after I came to a stop at a light and it took longer than normal for it to start back up. It did this for 2 days and then the check engine light came on. I scanned the code and it came up with P0118 coolant temp sensor high input. So I replaced both coolant temp sensors on the truck. Also since I had the upper intake off I also did the gaskets. After the repair the vehicle still idles very rough and sounds like its detonating when put in gear. Initial acceleration is rough and the revs seem to go higher than normal. Now I'm not sure why the light came on for the sensor because it is still running poorly. Is this just a coincidence or is there still another problem like ignition or a stuck erg valve?

Ok, I'll look around and see what all they have for these, the guy that did the diagnosis said I could try half a thing of pepper and it might slow it down, I hope it just lasts till February, I may replace the gasket if it doesn't kill my bank account, it's got well over 200,000 miles on it and that makes me leary about putting alot of money into the motor. Thanks for all your help, if you think of that sealant let me know, someone said blue devil was good stuff but could clog a lot of stuff if not used right.

Cool, yeah I think I'll try that, the leak doesn't seem that bad, I only have to put some in about once a month, its running a little better, not sure why but not complaining. Hopefully I can get those tablets at any auto store. Thanks!

Ok, will do, thanks for your help.

Ok heres an update on the situation, I tried the coolant tablets with no luck (worth a try) I took it to another mechanic and he did a compression test and it held pressure and he didn't see any leaks. I told him about one morning when I squeezed the top coolant hose and saw coolant build up on top of the motor and it dripped on to the ground but he seems to think it's a head gasket problem. Later I called a friend of a friend whos a mechanic and he strongly thinks it too is a head gasket. It just throws me off because the last time I had a blown head gasket in a vehicle it was doing everything this one doesn't. It does lose coolant slowly but I have only went through a half gallon of it since I've had this thing. Do you think some k-seal or bars leak would help this any since its not a huge leak yet or would it cause more problems than it'll solve? Thanks!

Wow I didn't realize you replied because I usually get an email when I get an answer, sorry about the long response. But I did a pressure test at about 11 - 12lbs and it held stedy the whole time, also I found the thermostat housing is leaking, don't if it's the primary leak but it seems likely that it is, it also has gotten worse, but nothing else has changed, theres still no water in the oil and no smoke from the tail pipe. Im going to replace the plug wires this weekend and see if that helps the rough running, I noticed light dots on the wires which means arching but I been hesitant because Im unsure if it would fix the problem, so if that does work then its a combination of two things which I'm hoping for, I will let you know what the outcome is with the new wires, and again thanks for your help.