Electric horns

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My horns stopped working fuses and relay are ok direct power thru wiring connection will operate one horn only. Power to other horn nothing happens are the horn wired in series I have tried to remove the horn pad no luck whats next to dothe horn pad has a airbag and iI did disconnect the neg post on battery before I try this
Do you
have the same problem?
Saturday, July 2nd, 2011 AT 3:17 AM

1 Reply

You MUST use some punctuation so we can understand what you're saying. What I DID get is you're thinking about disconnecting the battery. That is a really bad idea. It can cause computers to lock up and need to be reprogrammed by the dealer. Volkswagens require the car to be towed to the dealer for a very expensive computer reprogramming, otherwise the car won't accelerate, won't come out of park, and may not even start. GM isn't quite that bad, but they are the only manufacturer that refuses to allow independent shops to do the reprogramming. You must spend your money at the dealership.

As for the horns, that is no longer a common sense circuit with just a switch and relay. At least one computer is involved in turning it on. Fords use two computers, and the typical repair bill for a dead horn is $800.00. You might get lucky and have nothing more than a clock spring that is starting to break. That is a wound-up ribbon cable in a plastic housing under the steering wheel. It also has circuits in it for the cruise control and air bag. If the cruise control doesn't work or the air bag light is on all the time, that's an even better chance the clock spring is all that's wrong.

The horns themselves are always wired in parallel. If one of them sounds sick when you jump 12 volts to it, it is likely full of rust inside or is starting to short. Normally that will blow a fuse. GM doesn't seem to have a lot of trouble with shorted horns.
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Saturday, July 2nd, 2011 AT 4:02 AM

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