2004 Hyundai Sonata crank no start

  • 2.6L
  • V6
  • 2WD
  • 115,000 MILES
This happens not all the time and nobody seems to have a clear answer to this.
Every couple of weeks, when I have been driving long enough for the engine to warm up and everything works fine. The car cranks but won't start for a few minutes then it starts and acts normal again for a few weeks ( one time only one day).
No engine light on battery is fine, purge valve was changed ( Hyundai dealers prognosis of the problem )
When it happens, it is always after I stopped for about 1-1 1/2 hours. Does this ring a bell?
Do you
have the same problem?
Saturday, December 12th, 2015 AT 3:01 AM

1 Reply

The reason no one has a clear answer is because they cannot duplicate the problem in their shop and no testing can be done if the problem isn't present. There are many things can can cause symptoms like that so guessing is just out of the question. Testing is the only way that problem can be diagnosed.

I'm giving you the isolation procedures to diagnose the issue but as I said, the car must be dead at the time of testing.

All "crank, no start" conditions are approached in the same way. Every engine requires certain functions to be able to run. Some of these functions rely on specific components to work and some components are part of more than one function so it is important to see the whole picture to be able to conclude anything about what may have failed. Also, these functions can ONLY be tested during the failure. Any other time and they will simply test good because the problem isn't present at the moment.
If you approach this in any other way, you are merely guessing and that only serves to replace unnecessary parts and wastes money.

Every engine requires spark, fuel and compression to run. That's what we have to look for.

These are the basics that need to be tested and will give us the info required to isolate a cause.

1) Test for spark at the plug end of the wire using a spark tester. If none found, check for power supply on the + terminal of the coil with the key on.

2) Test for injector pulse using a small bulb called a noid light. If none found, check for power supply at one side of the injector with the key on.

3) Use a fuel pressure gauge to test for correct fuel pressure, also noticing if the pressure holds when key is shut off.

Once you have determined which of these functions has dropped out,
you will know which system is having the problem.
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Saturday, December 12th, 2015 AT 9:41 AM

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