Ok at idle and overheating at higher speeds indicates either low fluid level or a clogged radiator.
July, 20, 2011 AT 2:57 PM
Water level is at max with no water lost.
Radiator looks ok fins in reasonable condition.
Most likely to cut off when on motorway at 70 or climbing hills.
The temperature gauge moves rapidly to red cuts off engine, then rapidly returns to normal and runs ok. Note the water level had expanded when van had got hot.
July, 20, 2011 AT 3:02 PM
Rad looks ok is not a test. It can be internally clogged and needs to be checked or flow tested by a rad shop to confirm if it is ok or not. Still think you have a clogged rad. If you are driving it and it keeps getting hot, you may be doing internal engine damage from the overheating.
July, 20, 2011 AT 3:26 PM
Just flushed rad, water that was in system was clear no rust or large pieces of muck. Good flow of water through rad using a hose from tap.
July, 20, 2011 AT 4:31 PM
The coolant efficiency is not up to specs which are mostly due to clogged radiators, thermostat not opening fully or closing, clogging of water passages, weak water pump or cooling fan.
If flushing is by means of using a water hose to run water through, it is not the correct way. The top or bottom tank has to come off and the fins checked visually and cleared. If 40 % of the core is clogged, the water running through it would still be fast. Some radiators gets clogged up not due to rust or muck. Chemical reactions from mixing different brands/types of coolant would clog radiator cores and the end result would be enamel like substances that are very hard and impossible to be removed. The only solution for such cases is to replace the radiator.
Did you check the radiator cooling fns for clogging? Insufficient air being drawn past the radiator can result in overheating, especialy under load conditions.
Apart from the radiator, is the cooling fan drawing strong air when running?
The overheating would cause the water tank to expand.
July, 21, 2011 AT 4:18 PM
good news found the fault, thought the information might be helpful if you get asked about this type of fault again.
The impeller in the waterpump had become unsecured from the fanbelt drive so at low revs the impeller spin but at higher revs the impeller was freewheeing so at low revs it worked but when reving high it was slipping and overheating causing the overheat to cut engine.
July, 21, 2011 AT 4:27 PM
Thank you for the input.
Glad to know you have fixed the problem.
Have a nice day.
May, 28, 2012 AT 6:21 PM
I have a major problem - broke down in Spain last week with sudden overheating. My van is Ford Transit 2.4 turbo diesel 05', was away to Malaga with delivery and noticed that the engine temperature started to rise sharply once during my 2000km journey from Calais, however, didn't reach the maximum temperature and sharply went back to normal again. When offloaded in Malaga started my way back the following day, after 30 miles going up a hill temperature rised to maximum very quickly and engine lost the power - I stopped, switched it off and after a minute it was fine again - temperature showing normal and I continued my way for another 60 miles. Temperature rised a few times but not till the maximum, then suddenly it went to 120 degrees in 10 seconds (again against a hill), engine shut down and I stopped at the nearest parking. I checked the coolant bay - the level was normal, when I opened the lid - there was no major pressure coming, no leaks, no oil in the coolant. I stayed over the night in the nearest hotel and went to Granada Ford garage the following morning. They were not sure were was the problem as they tested my van in the town and temperature stayed normal, there were no leaks or oil in the coolant. They said they need to change the temperature sensor, then the termostat, then - fan itself - it was just guessing all the time. I spent two days waiting for this to be done and on the last day when the fan was changed they went on a test drive onto the motorway - it happened again the same way going against a hill. Now, they say the headgasket needs to be changed and looking for nearly 3000 Euro to do this - I'm sure they only guessing again! The van itself costed me less than this price and I think because they can't find the problem, they are changing all they can imagine could possibly cause this. I know that with headgasket there should be other simptoms also like oil in coolant, white smoke, some leakage and big pressure build ups, none of these are present in my case. Please help with some ideas what to do because I feel they held me a hostage over this situation!
May, 28, 2012 AT 7:23 PM
Symptoms indicates you possibly has a loose connection somewhere or a faulty gauge and not an overheating issue.
Recheck body gound circuits and ensure they are clean and secure.
May, 28, 2012 AT 7:26 PM
The problem is that the van is in the garage and they won't let me deal with it myself - it's like they are just playing a guessing game - replacing more and more parts with the headgasket now costing me thousands