Drivers seat wont work

Tiny
THTRAVEL
  • MEMBER
  • 2003 LINCOLN AVIATOR
  • 75,000 MILES
The drivers seat wont work and I found two fused, one under the dash and one under the hood and both are good. Are there any other fuses or a relay? Any suggestions on what to check next?
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Tuesday, November 22nd, 2011 AT 7:56 PM

13 Replies

Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MEMBER
It looks like there is three fuses #1, 2 and 21 I would think it is the seat control switch if the fuse is okay here is a video of the job being done on a similar car and the wiring diagrams so you can see how the system works. Driver seat modules go out as well.

https://youtu.be/xLHNfnSdrVQ

Check out the seat wiring diagrams (Below). and this guide to help you test the circuits

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-wiring

Please let us know what you find. We are interested to see what it is.

Cheers
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Tuesday, November 22nd, 2011 AT 8:27 PM
Tiny
THTRAVEL
  • MEMBER
Thanks for the post I found the switch has bad I got a new one for $68.00 and its all fixed thanks! I love this site. Thanks for your assistance :)
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Tuesday, November 22nd, 2011 AT 8:32 PM
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MEMBER
Nice work, we are here to help, please use 2CarPros anytime.

Cheers
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Tuesday, November 22nd, 2011 AT 8:36 PM
Tiny
ROBERT RUBY
  • MEMBER
  • 2005 LINCOLN AVIATOR
  • 4.6L
  • V8
  • AWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 170,000 MILES
Drivers power seat just quit working, front, back, lumbar, up and down. The passenger seat works fine. The AC, heat and lock button still work on the driver side just seat controls do not.
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Thursday, September 20th, 2018 AT 7:22 PM (Merged)
Tiny
STEVE W.
  • EXPERT
Check fuse 1 (30A) and fuse 2 (10A) in the left side fuse panel behind the dash. Also, check fuse fuse 21 (30A) in the under hood fuse panel. But the problem may be that the wiring shorted under the seat. All of the memory items, pedals, mirrors and seat run in the harness to the module under the seat.
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Thursday, September 20th, 2018 AT 7:22 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ROBERT RUBY
  • MEMBER
Steve W. Thanks for the quick response on the seat. Will check the fuses and get back to you. As of now I am replacing the alternator and it is raining. I do need to know if I should replace the two o-rings on the water manifold that fits into the block? The o-rings are in good condition so would a bit of permatex suffice? Had to remove to access the alternator.
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Thursday, September 20th, 2018 AT 7:22 PM (Merged)
Tiny
STEVE W.
  • EXPERT
I generally replace any type of gasket or seal if it has been disturbed. Just cheap insurance against leaks.
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Thursday, September 20th, 2018 AT 7:22 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ROBERT RUBY
  • MEMBER
I agree about no leaks. In the process of trying to find them. Fact is I do not know exactly what I am looking for. Would appreciate your help and suggestions. Thank you Steve W.
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Thursday, September 20th, 2018 AT 7:22 PM (Merged)
Tiny
STEVE W.
  • EXPERT
Leaks are the bane of every mechanic. Especially the "well you touched it last and it was not leaking then". Then they do not like to hear that, yes I did a rear brake repair and you have a heater core leak and they cannot be connected.

What issues are you having, or are you just trying to clean up the small seeps and leaks that come from vehicle age? Those can be a real can of worms. You find and fix one, then discover that hose you moved 1/4" created a leak at the other end.
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Thursday, September 20th, 2018 AT 7:22 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ROBERT RUBY
  • MEMBER
Steve, is this part actually called a water manifold? And are the parts I am looking for called o-rings or seals? I have looked on several auto sites and I cannot even find the manifold let alone the seals. Any site suggestions where I can find them? As always thank you. Reminder the seals are for the two ends of the manifold that go into the engine block, 2005 Lincoln Aviator 4.6L V8.
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Thursday, September 20th, 2018 AT 7:22 PM (Merged)
Tiny
STEVE W.
  • EXPERT
They probably are sold only with the complete gasket set, (yep VICTOR REINZ 953678, only $335.00!). Also sold with a new pipe, which you do not need.

But, you have the old ones so just visit a decent parts store with the tube and those and they should have some that will work. They are nothing real special, just common o-rings.

The "correct" terms in the book are engine coolant bypass hose or coolant crossover
# 2C5Z8548DB.

Says "remove old o-rings and install new ones lubed with fresh coolant".
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Thursday, September 20th, 2018 AT 7:22 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ROBERT RUBY
  • MEMBER
Thanks Steve, that is exactly what I did, everything back together and doing great. O-rings $1.79 per. Now to the seat. Thanks again Steve.
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Thursday, September 20th, 2018 AT 7:22 PM (Merged)
Tiny
KEN
  • ADMIN
Yep Steve W. Is one of our best!

Please use 2CarPros anytime, we are here to help and tell a friend.

Best, Ken
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Thursday, September 20th, 2018 AT 7:22 PM (Merged)

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