2003 Jaguar X-Type High pitched whistle when cold

TAFFYB002

MEMBER
2003 JAGUAR X-TYPE
2.5L
6 CYL
AUTOMATIC
51,000 MILES

My car was making a high pitched whistle when I first start driving when it's cold outside just once in a while.
Now it's doing it every time I accelerate. It goes up in pitch when I accelerate and goes down when I slow.
I saw something here about that but didn't see a definitive answer to the problem.
I've only owned the car for about 18 mos. And this is the only problem I've had.
This may not be related but when I drive the car for long periods there is a rubber burning sort of smell coming from somewhere under the car.
Is it safe to drive?

6 Replies

HMAC300

MECHANIC
48,601 POSTS

It should be safe to drive, look for a vacuum leak like hose touching manifold and burnt through or maybe your alternator bearing is making noise.

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Saturday, February 21st, 2015 AT 10:03 AM

TAFFYB002

MEMBER
4 POSTS

Thanks for your quick reply. Last week the whistling stopped but days later I noticed the fan stayed on for about 5 minutes after turning the engine off.
Days later I saw a leak on the driveway and found the coolant was low.
Refilled the coolant and next day it was almost empty again.
The temp gauge never showed hot, though.
I could see a puddle under the group of hoses leading to the coolant reservoir but couldn't tell exactly where it was coming from.
I filled the reservoir again and drove about 20 mins. To the mechanic.
They haven't gotten back to me yet but any thoughts of what the problem could be would be greatly appreciated. I want to be a bit knowledgeable when they call with their diagnosis.
Thanks in advance for your help.

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Monday, March 16th, 2015 AT 4:23 AM

HMAC300

MECHANIC
48,601 POSTS

They wil pressure check it and find the leak it may be just a hose hard telling from our end as we don't have any diagrams of hoses and how they route.

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Monday, March 16th, 2015 AT 7:25 AM

TAFFYB002

MEMBER
4 POSTS

Well, just got the repair order email. Below I copied and pasted the services I can afford to do now according to how they prioritized them.

PRESSURE TEST ON COOLING SYSTEM REVEALED A LEAKING WATER PUMP. NEED TO REPLACE KNOWN LEAKING WATER PUMP THEN RETEST SYSTEM FOR ANY LEAKS NOT CURRENTLY DETECTABLE. DUE TO COOLANT LOSS WE RECOMMEND REPLACING THE THERMOSTAT WHILE SERVICING THE WATER PUMP. DRIVE BELTS ARE DRY AND CRACKED FROM AGE AND HEAT, NO ADDITIONAL LABOR COSTS TO REPLACE WHILE SERVICING WATER PUMP.
REPLACE WATER PUMP AND GASKET: Drain coolant from system. Test coolant292.49198.87491.36 ph level. Remove drive belts. Remove water pump obstructions. Remove old0.00 water pump and gasket. Clean off old gasket from water pump housing. Install 0.00 new water pump and gasket. Refill cooling system and bleed air from system. Test coolant clutch fan/electric coolant fan operation. Test engine temperature for proper thermostat operation. Pressure test cooling system for leaks. Test drive vehicle and re-inspect for leaks. 1.0034.19COOLANT/ANTIFREEZE -1.00106.49WATER PUMP COVER AND 1.0058.19. That's all I can afford today, (about $600.00).
There's more to do that's not urgent but can wait until next payday.
Thanks so much for your expertise!

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Monday, March 16th, 2015 AT 11:46 AM

HMAC300

MECHANIC
48,601 POSTS

Pretty much what they said they have to do to find other leaks if you have any. If the belt is going to be replaced then replace the automatic tensioner as well if you can afford it. Recommended replacement for both is 60k which you are a little short on but might as well anyhow. The cracks don't mean much in the newer design belts that they did years agoas they should use a gauge to determine wear as it fits in groove of belts. Tell the they can get one for free from Gates, just go online.