Engine not cranking?

Tiny
SLANDAPP
  • MEMBER
  • 2003 DODGE CARAVAN
  • 3.3L
  • 6 CYL
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 213,088 MILES
So I keep OBD two on me because I live in a shady area, and I’ve had a lot of problems with people messing with my car and stuff. So, I got so I got the 2003 Dodge Caravan 3.3 L flex and when I got it, my OBD two sensor red no fault codes whatsoever and it worked good. It was great. I’ve had it for about two weeks. Well, I go to crank it, and the starter won’t turn over. I thought it was battery issue hooked up another car to it recharge the battery let it sit and run for 15 min. And still click. So, I put the battery on slow charge and fully charged it and starter still just clicking. So, I jump started the starter by splicing the yellow wire to the starter and the starter worked fine but it still wouldn’t start. So, I spray some starting fluid into the air intake and get someone to turn the key while I jump started it and it worked. I drove it home with no problems. OBD II had no fault codes. The next day the starter doesn’t turn using the key again. So, I jump started it again the same as yesterday except this time I noticed the car wouldn’t shift gears it would go in reverse and drive but nothing else. So, I hooked up the OBD II and it reads. P0352 Ignition code B primary control circuit/open. P351 Ignition: a primary control circuit/open. P0700 transmission control system (MIL Request) and another P0700 transmission control system (MIL Request) and finally P0305 cylinder 5 misfire detected. Somebody please tell me what’s going on and help me. I do want to add that the temperature went below freezing and that was when I started having these problems and it hadn’t gotten above freezing all week. Don’t know if that has anything to do with it or not.
Tuesday, January 21st, 2025 AT 5:33 PM

7 Replies

Tiny
AL514
  • MECHANIC
  • 5,499 POSTS
Hello, sorry to hear about the issues you're having, unfortunately when it gets really cold like these vehicles will start having all kinds of issues, this happens when its really hot out during the summer too, just not as bad. It sounds like there might be a connector issue somewhere, possibly corroded, or an issue with some solder joints in one of the modules. Cracked solder joints will act up when it is excessively cold or hot out. They can expand or contract, opening up a circuit. The P0700 is the transmission control module request the check engine light come on, meaning it most likely has a code stored in the module, a basic OBD2 code reader will only read trouble codes stored in the engine control module and will not do a full system scan of every module in the vehicle. That requires a higher end scan tool. Let me take a look at the wiring diagrams for your vehicle and see how the harness is set up. I'll post the diagrams as well so you can check for power and ground at certain locations, but go ahead and with the key Off, check some of the bulk connectors in the engine compartment for any corrosion inside the connector pins. Green or white crusty corrosion can cause issues like this. I'll also locate the ECM to see if it's in a location exposed to the elements.

Also check any ground connections to the engine block or to the body/frame for corroded eyelets where the ground bolts up to its location. Grounds can have voltage drop on them but look okay, same with battery terminals, this cold weather is going to stress just about everything on the vehicles during a cold start, take some pictures of anything you are unsure of and post them here for us to take a look at.
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Wednesday, January 22nd, 2025 AT 10:41 AM
Tiny
AL514
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This vehicle has an integrated power module on the driver side of the engine compartment just in front of the strut tower, it houses a lot of fuses and relays, go through and check for any fuses that might be blown, have corroded pins, or looks like the pins are discolored in any way. Same with relays, if a relay is struggling with current flow, the pins will show signs of being over heated or the plastic around the pins can even be partially melted. The Starter motor relay and Automatic Shutdown relay are located in the integrated power module. If you had to jump power to the yellow wire, it is supposed to get its power feed through the Fuse 9 then the Starter relay. If you have a multimeter I would check and see if any voltage is getting to the yellow wire at the starter motor, you may find its potentially low voltage, or none at all, and we can back track from there to see if the starter relay is even being energized.
It sounds like you are missing power or ground and it's affecting multiple components at the same time.
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Wednesday, January 22nd, 2025 AT 11:13 AM
Tiny
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I would do this check at the starter relay location to determine if there is a power issue inside the integrated power module, because if you're missing a power here, but have power on Fuse 9 for example, then we know there are most likely going to be more issues inside. The 2nd diagram shows Ground locations G101 and G103 to check.
With the codes showing up, they can all be set due to a lack of voltage from the ignition switch or from voltage not making it from the switch threw the integrated power module and out to the coil pack, transmission control module and starter. You can see in diagrams 3, 4, 5 which all show connector C7 pin 2 as the input pin from the switch. The coil codes can be set due to a lack of voltage as well. Diagrams 6, 7, 8 are for Code P0351. So, I think these issues are all related. Most codes will take at least two drive cycles to set.
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Wednesday, January 22nd, 2025 AT 1:18 PM
Tiny
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This is what I did. I ran a switch from the main power on the starter and the yellow cable on the starter and put it inside the cabin of my vehicle. Cause you have to turn the key and activate the starter for the car to crank and when I did that I unhooked the battery to reset the system. I used the switch one time and suddenly the car will crank now like it’s supposed to and all my fault codes went away. So I’m not sure how that fixed it but it did. Maybe I added power back to the yellow wire on the starter. I did have to fix the connector the yellow wire goes to on the starter. It was loose but I don’t understand how that fixed the code 0700 or my engine misfiring on cylinder 5. I’m better in the bundle of electrical wires under the car that the yellow wire is attached to has a loose wire that I inadvertently fixed for the time being or maybe it’s because running that switch added and extra ground I was missing one. I still need to fix it cause stuff don’t just go away it’ll be back. But at least I have narrowed down the solution a little bit for you. Does this make sense to you in any way and since you what I did to temporarily fix it maybe it will shed some light on where the problem is for you. Unless my ECM was hacked and resetting the system messed it up.
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Friday, January 24th, 2025 AT 2:50 AM
Tiny
AL514
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I would retrace my steps, my guess is that there is a bad connector somewhere and there is either a pin fitment issue or corrosion inside a connector and moving the harness around like you did temporarily fixed it, One reason why we don't move harnesses around much when dealing with a problem like this. I would have traced the issue back from the starter wire until I found the area where there was a voltage loss. You can still do that. You should never have to run switches to anything, just find the original issue. This is a voltage loss somewhere, and you're correct it will come back eventually. Use a multimeter and start checking for voltage drop on the positive side and negative side of the vehicles power circuits. Positive to positive while cranking and see how much voltage is being lost from one location to another. Cranking is a huge load on the electrical system, so wires that can't carry current will stand out.
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Friday, January 24th, 2025 AT 6:51 AM
Tiny
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Cool thanks. Yes all my relays have black on the pins like a burnt-out fuse. I’m going to start by replacing those and then checking the connections. I’ll tell you how I’m progressing and if I find it. Thanks
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Friday, January 24th, 2025 AT 10:25 AM
Tiny
AL514
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The burnt pins on the relays means there is most likely high resistance through the relay, resistance causes excessive heat, hence the burnt pins. Check the underside of the fuse box that houses the relays for corroded pins or connections.
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Friday, January 24th, 2025 AT 7:52 PM

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