I charge it up to 12+ volts and overnight it drains to about 5-6 volts. I believe I have ruled out a bad battery as I have switched it with another vehicle and the problem stays with the Sub. I removed the wire that attaches to the alternator and the problem doesn't go away so I think it isn't the alternator, plus the battery reads at about 14.75 when the Sub is running so the alternator seems like it is doing its job?
What else would be draining the battery that fast? What else do I check and how?
HAVE BATTERY AND CHARGING SYSTEM LOAD TESTED AT A POPULAR AUTO PARTS STORE---USUALLY THIS IS FREE
IF YOU ARE JUMPING IT EACH TIME TO GET IT TO CRANK---I WOULD NOT RULE OUT A CONNECTION PROBLEM...I TRY TO COVER ALL POSSIBILITIES, EVEN IF IT SOUNDS STUPID! I SORTA DON'T SEE THE NEED OF GOING WILD AND INVOLVED, RIGHT OFF THE BAT! SEE MY ANSWER IN THIS POST
THEN WE HAVE WHAT YOU MAY BE THINKING..."PARASITIC DRAIN"
THERE ARE SEVERAL WAYS TO SORTA CHECK THIS POSSIBILITY OUT...IN SOME OF THESE THEY EXPLAIN THAT THERE ARE "NORMAL PARASITIC DRAWS" SUCH AS THE MEMORY ON YOUR RADIO.
LIKE I SAID, THERE ARE A FEW DIFFERENT GAUGES OR METERS YOU CAN DO THIS WITH...I THREW THE WHOLE NINE YARDS ON YOU, SO THAT YOU MIGHT SELECT WHICH WILL BE EZier FOR YOU TO TRY....DO LOOK AT MORE THAN A FEW, SOME ARE NARRATED BETTER THAN OTHERS
MOSTLY YOU WILL FIND OUT IN THE END, YOU'LL BE SNATCHIN' FUSES, TILL YOU FIND THE CIRCUIT CAUSING THE DRAW.....THEN YOU MUST FIND WHAT AND WHERE IN THAT CIRCUIT.
IF YOU ARE HAVING PROBLEMS AT THIS POINT, I MAY BE ABLE TO GET YOU WIRING DIAGRAMS FOR SPECIFIC SYSTEMS IN YOUR VEHICLE, IF YOU WILL TELL ME WHICH ONES OR WHICH FUSE IS INVOLVED
February, 5, 2012 AT 4:01 AM
Today I unhooked the negative battery terminal and put my multimeter inline between the negative cable and the negative post. I tried using the millivolt setting, but it gave the OL error message, so I used the regular setting. The multimeter read 12.89. That means it is a much larger draw than just a dome light or something little like that, right? What are the larger items that would be drawing that much current when the vehicle isn't running?
February, 5, 2012 AT 4:39 AM
IS THAT WHERE YOU STOPPED?
DID YOU SNATCH FUSES TO FIGURE OUT WHICH CIRCUIT, WAS DRAWING THE BIG LOAD?
I'M GUESSING YOU DID WATCH SOME VIDEOS?
I HAVE DONE THIS A FEW TIMES MYSELF, HELPING OTHERS, MOSTLY WITH OLDER CARS (DINOSAURS)
IF YOU CAN ISOLATE THE FUSE # OR CIRCUIT---I CAN MOST LIKELY GET A DIAGRAM(S) FOR THE SYSTEM AND WE CAN METHODICALLY MAYBE UNPLUG ITEMS TILL WE FIND IT!
WITH THESE NEWER OVERLY COMPLICATED RIGS IT MAY BE THAT YOU SNATCH OUT EVERY FUSE/ RELAY AND IT STILL COULD DRAW---WE WILL ATTEMPT TO DEAL WITH THAT IF IT HAPPENS.1ST THINGS 1ST
KEEP ME POSTED AS YOU PROGRESS.I'M PULLING FOR YOU!
February, 7, 2012 AT 2:20 AM
Today I hooked up the multimeter inline with the battery again. I think I was using the wrong setting previously. I have the negative battery cable disconnected. I put the red end of the multimeter on the negative battery cable and the black end of the multimeter on the negative battery post. I turned the multimeter to mA and it read.9
From there I pulled every fuse under the hood, every fuse from the compartment just inside the drivers door and every fuse from the compartment just to the left of the brake pedal. Nothing changed. Then I disconnected the wire from the started and that too changed nothing. The multimeter still read.9 mA.
February, 7, 2012 AT 6:14 AM
USING THE MILLIVOLTS ON A REGULAR DIGITAL VOLTMETER MAY NOT WORK---I WENT THRU SEVERAL VIDEOS---MOST EVERYBODY IS USING A METER EQUIPPED TO READ MILLIAMPS (NOT VOLTS)
THIS GUY HERE IS DOING IT THE "CHEAP WAY" USING MILLIVOLTS (NOT MILLIAMPS) TO SEE THE DRAIN (SORTA WHAT YOU TRIED, BUT WITH A RESISTOR----HE DOES SPEND A BUCK OR TWO TO RIG IT UP CORRECTLY
THIS OTHER GUY HERE (HE EXPLAINS THINGS WELL, I'VE SEEN OTHER REPAIR VIDEOS HE HAS MADE) THING IS---HE HAS THE MORE EXPENSIVE METER WITH MILLIAMP CAPABILITY---IF YOU BORROWED A METER OR BOUGHT ONE, THIS VIDEO IS A GOOD ONE TO GO BY
I KNOW YOU MUST BE FRUSTRATED, I SORTA ASSUME OTHER FOLKS HAVE GOT SOME OF THE TOOLS I HAVE (IMMA DIYer MYSELF, I HAVE MEGA JEEP CJ EXPERIENCE, I ALSO AM THE FELLER THAT FAMILY AND FRIENDS CALL ON)
I HAVE ANALOG/ CHEAPO DIGITAL AND A COUPLE OF HIGHER PRICED METERS, WHAT I SORTA MEAN IS....I DO IT LIKE THE SECOND VIDEO...WHEN I HAVE TO, AND THAT'S NOT BEEN REAL OFTEN.
WHICHEVER VIDEO YOU GO BY.....KEEP IN MIND WHAT'S SAID ABOUT THE DOOR BEING OPEN....YOU MIGHT EVEN TAKE A READING BEFORE THE DOOR IS OPEN AND AFTER...OR CLOSE IT EACH TIME YOU HAVE PULLED A FUSE INSIDE.
THE 1ST VIDEO WILL BE YOUR CHEAPEST WAY OUT, IF YOU CAN'T BORROW OR BUY A METER, W/ THE ma FEATURE. I THINK I WOULD GRAB A FEW ALLIGATOR ENDED JUMPER WIRES TO HOOK UP TO THE VOLTMETER. ALONG W/ THE 2 CLAMPS FOR THE RESISTOR TO HOOK INTO THE SYSTEM. MY SISTER'S CAR WAS MY FIRST COMPUTERIZED CAR THAT HAD A PARASITIC, SO I SPENT THE $$$ TO BUY MY 1st REAL NICE METER....ON OLDER STUFF, THAT I'M MORE USED TO, I USED A TEST LIGHT
I WOULD HATE TO HEAR THAT YOU SPENT MEGA $$$ TAKING IT TO A SHOP, IF YOU COULD DIY, AND BASICALLY INVEST SOME TIME AND LESS THAN $15
IF YOU STILL CAN'T DO IT W/ THIS METHOD, PULLING RELAYS, FUSIBLE LINKS, MIGHT BE THE NEXT STEP
RESPOND WITH A SMILE...TELL ME YOU GOT IT!
I PRETTY MUCH BUILT BOTH OF THESE FROM NOTHINGNESS, ALL BY MYSELF! THE '77 IS MY PRIMARY TRANSPORTATION, THE '46 IS DRIVEN EVERY CHANCE I GET
February, 7, 2012 AT 6:47 AM
From there I pulled every fuse under the hood, every fuse from the compartment just inside the drivers door and every fuse from the compartment just to the left of the brake pedal. Nothing changed. Then I disconnected the wire from the started and that too changed nothing. The multimeter still read.9 mA
Try disconnecting the alternator and see what happens
February, 22, 2012 AT 11:29 PM
OK, I think I m a little further along since I borrowed some equipment from a neighbor. I hooked up his ammeter in series and discovered that my draw is 19ma. The strange about this is that it doesn t appear to be a steady 19ma draw. The ammeter goes into overload then drops back down to 19ma consistently, over and over. We had it hooked up for over an hour and it repeated that process throughout the entire hour.
We started pulling fuses and the problem went away when we pulled the MBEC fuse. The manual says the MBEC fuse is related to Mid Bussed Electrical Center Power Feed, Front Seats, Right doors.
How do I figure out which of these items is causing the problem?
February, 23, 2012 AT 12:07 AM
ENCOMPASSING THE WIRING IN QUESTION (LIKE THE POWER SEATS) WITH THE AMPMETER. ONE WIRE STRAND AT A TIME WOULD PROBABLY SHOW DRAW.
NOW INSTEAD OF PULLING FUSES--DISCONNECTING CONNECTORS TO THE VARIOUS AREAS/ SWITCHES/ COMPONENTS MIGHT STOP THE DRAW, AND LEAD YOU CLOSER TO THE PROBLEM