Are you on the front or rear? They used to use T50s on the rear. I forgot what's on the front. Regardless, if you're replacing a wheel stud, you don't remove the assembly for that.
To prevent broken studs, always use a click-type torque wrench when tightening the nuts. Any tire and alignment shop can tell you the proper torque, but as a general guide, 95 foot pounds is typical for smaller front-wheel-drive cars with steel wheels, and 80 foot pounds is common with alloy wheels.
If the threads were messed up causing the nut to bind and the stud to snap, you didn't cause that damage. That was caused by the last person to tighten the nuts too much. That caused the threads to peel and get jammed.
Also, just so I cover all the bases, if your studs are anodized, and have a silver, yellow, or light blue color, that coating is a lubricant and adding grease will dissolve that and cause the nuts to stick. If you have non-coated studs, you can use a very light film of grease on them, but never, ever, use anti-seize compound. That will get a mechanic fired instantly. One common mistake to be aware of too is some people use a gob of grease on the stud, then run the nut on with an impact wrench. That grease will build up ahead of the nut and get flung out onto the wheel's mating friction surface. That contact area has to be kept clean, smooth, and dry because that is the only thing that holds that nut from working loose.
Tuesday, September 15th, 2015 AT 9:25 PM