I would put it in reverse and about 5 seconds later BAM. Into gear?

I'm sorry if this is a dumb question but, have you checked the transmission fluid level lately?

If okay, drain the fluid to check for metal, the transmission may have had an internal pump failure which would cause the problem you are describing, We have a Saturn guy here, I will forward this questions to him for a second opinion.

Best, Ken

It for sure sounds like a pressure issue the pumps rarely fail on those cars and I mean rarely. I have never seen a pressure issue caused by a worn and sticking pressure regulator cause no forward gear. The reverse yes because it uses full line pressure to engage reverse.

I never said it cant be the valve body I just said I have never seen one cause you too loose the forward gears.A oil pressure gauge wont work the pressures in the transmission go over 200 psi the set I have has two pressure gauges a oil gauge and transmission gauge plus the adapter to hook up to your transmission. I dont trust solenoid ohm tests there not always accurate your ohm meter puts a very small current into the solenoid. There is something I would check on the back side of your inside fuse box there will be a gray 68way connector. Unbolt it its a 7mm bolt then pull it over to you so you can see the terminals that touch the fuse box. You will see a big fat red wire going into terminal f5 that feeds power to all the transmission actuators. That terminal can become open over time causing intermittent power to the actuators. You will be able to see the difference if its open compared to the other terminals. Post a picture of the terminals for me if you need help figuring it out. Also like I said before one of the first things I would do is perform a pressure test on the transmission. You can also tell if the line pressure control actuator is working with test. Plus what the line pressure is in drive reverse etc. Also if there is a delay in the pressure getting to the reverse gear. Indicating possible a loose input shaft nut or just low line pressure. Also there is air checking the clutch pack pistons to see if they hold air to make sure there not leaking.I do that when I remove the valve body usually if iam dealing with a pressure regulator issue in the valve body. I actually rebuilt my valve body with the sonnax sure cure kit.I bored the pressure regulator bore and put in there sleeve installed the sonnax pressure regulator a sonnax regulator spring and sonnax boost valve. It fixes a couple of issues the valve body causes it takes a special kit from sonnax to bore it to get the sleeve in.I got a used install kit on ebay years ago. My 1999 shifts better then new now then a year after doing the valve body repair my input shaft nut loosened up lol.I have 268,000 miles on my transmission now. Let me get you the part number of my otc transmission gauge set.

Its otc 5610 its 57 on amazon right now I really like it someone got it for me as a birthday gift a few years ago.

Also when you set transmission codes like that the transmission can go into limp mode and the transmission will take off in 2nd gear and wont shift out of 2nd. It will take a lot of throttle to take off and wont go that fast. Also 2nd gear and reverse share a clutch pack reverse doesn't have its own clutch pack.

Again its very rare for a pump to fail and the pump would require removing the transmission and splitting the transmission case and replacing the pump. The is really basic like the only pump for your engine on that car. Its two gears spinning one inside the other making fluid pressure. The pressure regulator bore in the valve body is the weak point for line pressure issues on that car. Which is a in car repair let me know when you get the gauge and I will tell you further instructions and I want you to do.

Yes the temp sensor by the filter is where you hook up the pressure gauge.I think the sensor is 1 8" pipe thread but dont quote me on that one lol. My pressure gauge set came with the correct adapter.

Ment to say 1/8" pipe thread.

Alright remove the transmission temp sensor then hook up the pressure gauge. Start the engine let it get up to operating temp. Then need pressure readings at idle in park. Then idle in park with the trs lp fuse pulled in the underhood fuse box. Your fuse might say line pressure then put the fuse back in if the pressure doesnt go back down cycle the key. When you pull the fuse if the pressure is under 175psi then rev it up to about 2000 rpms or so and see what it reads. Then I need readings at idle in reverse let me know if the pressure goes up rapidly or it lags a little going to its highest reading. Also at idle in drive I need readings. Did you order the gauge set like mine?

I meam shut it off and restart it the gauge I suggested was only 57 on amazon the same set I have I posted the set number it was otc number 5610.I love my set and have checked plenty of transmissions.

The pump is good thats for sure I wish you had the scan you could do a step pressure test where the computer commands different pressures from high to low. You compare actual pressure verus commanded pressure.I have seen the pressure at idle with the fuse in and out be good like yours. But the pressure regulator bore be worn and causing issues.A loose input shaft nut will cause the delay bang but to loose the forward gears have never seen that when you had to rev it up high to take off it could have been in fail safe mode and it will take off in second and stay in second if it has issues with the forward gears. What troubles me is noise you hear in reverse can you have someone in the car holding the brake in reverse. While you listen where you hear it? That could be something coming apart inside the transmission. I have also seen input shaft nuts loosen bad enough where the first gear clutch pack scrapes on the end cover.