Replaced valve body still had hard shift - replaced TRS LP fuse NOW will not shift

Tiny
SATURNTECH9
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Your down to the wirng or the valve body I belive its in the valve body I would ake I apart and see what you can see. Before you go sending it off. Go to the sonnax website it tells you how to check the pressure regulator bore etc.
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Wednesday, February 15th, 2012 AT 2:44 AM
Tiny
MIKE G
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I took the valve body apart and found the following:

Neither of the two springs were broken.

The bore was good no scratches or out of shape.

I could not tell if the o-rings were worn.

I did the light test and saw no light in bore, bit I am not sure the did the test correctly.

I will start to look deeper into the wiring. So far I have not found anything, but I do not have a wiring diagram to help me.
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Monday, February 20th, 2012 AT 1:01 AM
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
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Did you do the wet test on the valve body like the sonnax website shows you how to do?
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Tuesday, February 21st, 2012 AT 7:52 PM
Tiny
MIKE G
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Sorry for not getting back to you sooner, my job kept me busy. I did the wet test and there was no leak past the pressure regulator bore. The wiring looks good but without any schematics I cannot be sure.

Any thoughts?
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Wednesday, February 29th, 2012 AT 2:48 AM
Tiny
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Take a look at the bulletine I posted bellow I think what could have happened was you had a valve body issue to begin with. But you could have also had the wires going to the valve body the copper wire inside the insullation broken. When you kept moving the wires around that was the straw that broke the camels back. Causing another issue to surface let me know what you find.I found a new connector for a good price online if you need one.
There is a TSB on this condition which is caused by a bad transaxle electrical connector as follows:

#01-T-09: Harsh Shifts, No Shifts, and/or No TCC Operation with Transaxle Releated DTCs Set - (Feb 13, 2003)

Subject:

Harsh Shifts, No shifts, and/or No TCC Operation with Transaxle Related DTCs Set (Replace Transaxle Connector and Harness)

Models:

1994 - 2001 Saturn S-Series vehicles with automatic transaxles (RPO MP6 or MP7)

Due to normal powertrain vibration, the transaxle wiring may flex and cause a circuit to open inside wire insulation near transaxle connector. In some cases, insulation will look distorted at point of open circuit.

Perform procedure in this bulletin to replace transaxle connector (P/N 21024415).

Remove air inlet duct.

2.1.

Open clamp at throttle body

2.2.

Disconnect fresh air hose at air duct.

2.3.

Remove air cleaner housing cover and air duct.

Remove battery.

Remove battery tray.

Loosen transaxle electrical connector bolt and disconnect transaxle electrical connector.

Disconnect transaxle range switch connectors.
Important: A sewing "seam stripper" is an excellent tool for removing tape from a wire harness. It cuts the tape without damage to the wires under the tape.

Remove electrical tape from wiring harness from transaxle electrical connector to main engine harness approximately 20-25 cm [8-10 in.]).

Important: If wires are broken inside insulation, outside of insulation may appear to be thin in one area, stretched or discolored.

Visually inspect circuits associated with DTC. Inspect wires for damaged or deformed insulation from transaxle electrical connector to main engine harness (up to 25 cm [10 in.] Away from connector).

â€

If there is visual evidence of wire damage and the location of the open circuit can be identified, continue with next step.

â€

If there is no evidence of wire damage, physically inspect each wire by sliding fingers along entire length of wire and feel for abnormalities or depressions.

-

If wire damage is located during physical inspection, continue with next step.

-

If no wire damage is located during physical inspection, continue to step 10.

Important: When splicing in new connector, stagger crimp-and-seal connectors so they are not all in same location. Staggering crimp-and-seal connectors will allow for a better finished look.

Once location of open circuit is identified, replace transaxle connector in its entirety (all ten circuits) with replacement transaxle connector (P/N 21024415).

9.1.

Cut transaxle connector circuit branch within 38 mm (1.5 in.) Of main harness to ensure any other possibly affected circuits are repaired. Discard transaxle connector.

9.2.

Remove insulation from ends of cut wires and new transaxle connector harness. Recommended strip length is 4.8 mm (3/16 in.) For 12-20 gauge wire and 9.5 mm (3/8 in.) For 22 gauge wire so it can be folded in half. Care must be used when stripping wire to prevent cutting the wire strands.

* Can be ordered through Delphi-Packard by calling 1-800-PACKARD (1-800-722-5273).

** Can be ordered through Saturn Special Tool Catalog. Found with J44020 Terminal Repair Kit.

Important: For the wiring used in Saturn vehicles, it is recommended that only approved Packard Electric Crimp and Seal Splice Sleeves (or equivalent) be used.

9.3.

Using a Saturn-approved crimp and seal splice sleeve (found in terminal repair kit J44020), position stripped ends of wires in sleeve until wires hit stop.

9.4.
Hand crimp splice sleeve using correct jaws in Packard crimper (P/N 12085155) or appropriate crimping tool. Gently tug on wires to ensure they are secure before applying heat to seal sleeve.
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Friday, March 2nd, 2012 AT 7:45 PM
Tiny
MIKE G
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I spent some time and went through as much of the wiring as I felt needed to be looked at to satisfy myself that the wires are good. I found nothing. I do not think that we have talked about this but I had already replaced the connector that plugs into the top of the valve body. When all this began I found that the line pressure actuator connector had shorted out. The valve body connector (pins associated with the line pressure circuit) was melted, the buss board was melted and the line pressure actuator was bad. So I purchased a new buss board, a new line pressure actuator and I went to the junk yard and got a new valve body connector which I sliced and soldered on to the main harness.

Is it possible that the connector I got from the junk yard is bad? Yes it is possible, but does it make sense? When I pull the trs lp fuse the car will shift in all gears with slam. This tells me that the connector is sending signals to the valve body. Also, it does not explain why the line pressure would be low when the trs lp fuse is connected.

However, if you feel that there is a chance that the connector is bad and that the bad connector can explain why the line pressure is low, then I will gladly purchase and install a new valve body connector.
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Monday, March 12th, 2012 AT 1:41 AM
Tiny
MIKE G
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Haven't heard from you in awhile - so I went ahead and order a new connector - I'll update you after I receive and install. I'm still thinking about getting a new valve body with sonnax
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Thursday, March 22nd, 2012 AT 11:16 PM
Tiny
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Iam sorry I dont know what happened some how I wasnt getting your emai alerts saying you posted a reply.I just saw you poped up on my unaswered donation questions. You have a very difficult problem and even more difficult trying to help you over the internet. This question is getting so long its getting hard to keep track in whats going on even. So where are we at as far as the car shifting any codes pressures in drive park reverse in park line pressure fuse pulled etc?
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Thursday, March 29th, 2012 AT 3:52 PM
Tiny
MIKE G
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Its been a while since we talked so here is where I am at. I just installed a new from GM transaxle connector. After installing I tested the car and now no matter what gear I put the car in (drive, 1, 2 or reverse) it goes into reverse. However, I believe it is because of the valve body. I took off the valve body and did the leak test (there was no leak) so I think I must have put it back together wrong causing the reverse in all gears problem. Rather then messing with this valve body I am going to order a rebuilt Sonnax sleeved valve body. Before I took this valve body apart to do the leak test I was having the problem where it would not shift out of first due to low line pressure. So hopefully a Sonnax valve body will raise the pressure and fix all problems.
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Sunday, April 1st, 2012 AT 10:50 PM
Tiny
MIKE G
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Just to be complete on my current state. The car will not go into park. Will go into neutral and all other gears act like reverse. Drive, 1, 2 car goes into reverse. Reverse car goes into reverse.
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Sunday, April 1st, 2012 AT 10:57 PM
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
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So before you changed the connector did it do the same thing?If it wont go into park the linkage to the manual valve is probably miss installed.
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Sunday, April 1st, 2012 AT 11:04 PM
Tiny
MIKE G
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Are you talking internal to the valve body?
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Sunday, April 1st, 2012 AT 11:29 PM
Tiny
MIKE G
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Let me give you a better answer. First question no it did not do the same thing. As far as the linkage are you referring to the internal linkage. The external linkage has never been touched.
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Sunday, April 1st, 2012 AT 11:34 PM
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
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When you remove or install a valve body you have to unhook the shift linkage from the manual valve on the valve body. Did you ever test the valve body after putting it back together before installing the brand new connector.
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Monday, April 2nd, 2012 AT 3:06 AM
Tiny
MIKE G
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No I never tested it after I put it back together, so I guess I know what I'll be doing this weekend. I'll let you know after I redo. Thanks
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Tuesday, April 3rd, 2012 AT 3:05 PM
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
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Your welocome keep me posted.
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Tuesday, April 3rd, 2012 AT 3:32 PM
Tiny
MIKE G
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Okay, I have the car testable again and here are my results. In park around 50 psi. The car goes into reverse flawless pressure around 240 psi. When I put the car in drive the pressure is around 120-130 psi. Car shifts into second and drops to around 100 psi. Will not shift into 3rd.

I put the gear selector into 3rd and the would only move at high rpm, the pressure was around 100 psi. I then put it back into drive and it would no longer shift into second pressure was around 100 psi.

Therefore, it seems to me that I am not getting enough forward gear pressure. Would a sonnax sleeve valve body give me the pressure I need? What are your thoughts. Have I over looked something?
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Monday, April 9th, 2012 AT 12:37 AM
Tiny
MIKE G
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Sorry I forgot but I am getting codes 732, 733 and 734.
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Monday, April 9th, 2012 AT 12:39 AM
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
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Which valve body is in the car now?Also I need you to check the pressure when the fluid is really hot like the cooling fan is ready to come on when you check it.I need pressure readings with the line pressure fuse in and with the line pressure out with it park?Also with the car shifted in reverse drive 3rd 2Nd at idle stopped. Also what did you find with the car not going into park and all the gears acting like reverse?
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Monday, April 9th, 2012 AT 5:16 PM
Tiny
MIKE G
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Which valve body is in the car now?

The original came with the car valve body.

Also I need you to check the pressure when the fluid is really hot like the cooling fan is ready to come on when you check it.I need pressure readings with the line pressure fuse in and with the line pressure out with it park?Also with the car shifted in reverse drive 3rd 2Nd at idle stopped.

Line Pressure with fuse:
Park - 40 psi
Reverse - 240 psi
Neutral - 40 psi
Drive - 100 psi
3 - 100 psi
2 - 240 psi

Line Pressure without fuse:
Park - 240 psi
Reverse - 240 psi
Neutral - 120 psi
Drive - 240 psi
3 - 240 psi
2 - 240 psi

Also what did you find with the car not going into park and all the gears acting like reverse?

When I installed the valve body I did not attach the gear selector linkage.
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Tuesday, April 10th, 2012 AT 12:10 AM

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