Replaced valve body still had hard shift - replaced TRS LP fuse NOW will not shift

Yes, this is with the new sonnax valve body.

Just curious is 285 psi low, high or what you would expect?

Here are my readings with a 600 psi gauge and the original valve body.

P - 50 psi
r - 50 psi
n - 50 psi
d - 50 psi
3 - 50 psi
2 - 50 psi

When I pulled the TRS LP fuse I read the following pressures.

P - 260 psi
r - 250 psi
n - 180 psi
d - 240 psi
3 - 240 psi
2 - 240 psi

Do you rebuild valve bodies. Do you still think the valve body is my problem?

Is one option to get a new PCM. I have seen them on ebay. If I purchase a PCM that is for my engine, do I have to do anything to it once I have it other then simply install it into the car?

Or am I wasting my money and need to take my car to the dealership. How much do these tests cost from the dealer (ballpark)?

I have replaced the pcm and know the car will not start. You wrote:

If you replaced the pcm you would have to probably relearn the pass lock sensor no big deal.

So how do I relearn the pass lock sensor? Is this something I can do or do I have to take the car to a dealer?

I found the passlock procedure online and the car now starts.

Here are my results with the new PCM.

Here are my readings with a 600 psi gauge and the original valve body and new PCM.

P - 50 psi
r - 240 psi - no slam
n - 50 psi
d - 120 psi - no slam
3 - 120 psi - no slam
2 - 120 psi - no slam

Test drive:

The first time I put the car in drive and went down the road it shifted into 2nd and 3rd (no slam), then it revved high rpm's and would not shift into 4th.

I came to a complete stop and starting going again and the car revved in high rpm's and would not shift into 2nd.

So as it stands right now the car will shift into reverse with no slam. The car will go into drive with no slam but will not shift into 2nd. The pressure gauge reads between 100 - 120 psi from putting my foot on the gas and then reaching high rpm's.

Also, when I put the car in reverse I her buzzing and then the car goes into reverse (buzzing stops) with 240 psi reading (no slam).

I put the car in drive, 2nd or 3rd and I hear the buzzing which never stops the whole time I am in that gear the gauge reads from 100 - 120 psi no higher no matter how many rpm's I rev to.

The car also does the non-stop buzzing in neutral.

Yes, it shifts into reverse good. There is no slam and I only hear the actuator buzzing for a few seconds.

However, when I put the car into drive it will not shift into second. The actuator starts buzzing when I put the car into drive and it never stop buzzing.

Any thought? Is there anything I can check or try?

I got this out of the ATSG service manual.

Second Gear: At a predetermined point based on throttle
position, vehicle speed and temperature, the PCM will
command a shift into second gear by turning off the
2nd/Reverse actuator (Solenoid). When this occurs, oil
pressure is sent to apply the clutches in the 2nd/Reverse
clutch on the main shaft. This locks the 2nd/Reverse drive
gear to the main shaft which causes a ratio change (1.17 or
1.56) freewheeling the one-way clutch (The first clutch
drum remains applied but is ineffective with the one-way
clutch freewheeling).

Based upon what is says the PCM is not turning off the 2nd/Reverse solenoid. I have the transmission temp. Sensor removed so that I can read the transmission pressure. Could this be causing the problem? Did I get a bad PCM? Do you think it could be something else?

Here are all the error codes.

P0113 - intake air temperature (IAT) - The air cleaner is disconnected
P0713 - automatic transmission fluid temperature (TFT) - The sensor is disconnected because of pressure gauge
P0732 - Gear 2 Incorrect ratio
P0733 - Gear 3 incorrect (incorrect gear ratio detected)
P0734 - Gear 4 incorrect (incorrect gear ratio detected)

That is not correct. Here is exactly what it is doing.

I start by disconnecting and then reconnecting the battery to clear out remembered shift points. I also clear and OBD codes.

I let the car warm up.

I go through the gears while in the garage.

Park is around 55 psi.

Reverse works great buzzes then goes to 240 psi no slam.

Neutral 55 psi with non-stop buzzing.

Drive 2nd 3rd is around 100 psi with non-stop buzzing.

Now I road test the car.

I back out of garage reverse drops to 55 psi buzzes and goes to 240 psi (no slam).

I am on the street. I put the car in drive. It shifts into 2nd (no slam), it shifts into 3rd (no slam), when it should shift into 4th it DOES NOT it revs very high but WILL NOT shift into 4th.

I stop the car, then go again (second attempt to go thru the forward gears). With the gear selector in drive the car rapidly fluctuates between 80-100 psi but DOES NOT SHIFT ever.

I stop the car and then put gear selector into 2nd gear. When I put my foot on the gas (gear selector in 2nd) it will rapidly fluctuate between 80-100 psi and gets up to about 15 mph max, then when I take my foot off the gas it shoots up 240 psi. I step on the gas it goes down to 55 psi. I take my foot off the gas and it shoots up to 240 psi.

It will then keep repeating this cycle foot on the gas 55 psi, foot off the gas 240 psi.

Yes, this is the original valve body. So does it appear to be a valve body issue, a PCM issue, a transmission issue or something else?

Would I be better off in re-purchasing a valve body from the store that rebuilt them and inserted a sonnax sleeve. What are my options if I do take apart my valve body and find scoring marks or a broken spring? What if I find nothing?

The person that I purchased the sonnax sleeve valve body from (which I returned) has offered to go thru my valve body. Here is what he wrote:

The last valve body checked in good. I resold it and it worked fine for the next customer. I feel that you have a problem other than the valve body. I assume that you cannot drive your car. If you sent me your valve body, I will go through it and send it back to you at a cost much lower than what I list the ones on ebay for. If I don't find anything out of the ordinary it would only cost you two new gaskets, return shipping and a small labor charge, say $20.00 for a total around $50.00. Let me know. Ken

Should I take him up on his offer or would I be better off getting a rebuilt valve body if it comes to that?