If you want to "wire it direct", first you have to remove the wire with the short, otherwise the short will still there and the fuses will continue to blow. More importantly, no professional is going to tell you how to do that, for liability reasons. All fuel pumps on all cars get turned on when the engine is rotating, (cranking or running). That is done for safety. If a fuel line gets ruptured in a crash, the engine can't run with no fuel pressure to the injectors. When the Engine Computer sees the engine stopped rotating, it turns the fuel pump off. That stops it from pumping raw fuel onto the ground and creating a fire hazard. You're trying to bypass that safety system.
Here's a better alternative:
A simple trick to finding a short is to replace the blown fuse with a pair of spade terminals, then use small jumper wires to connect them to a 12 volt light bulb. A brake light bulb works well. When the circuit is live and the short is present, the bulb will be full brightness and hot so be sure it's not laying on the carpet or against a plastic door panel. Now you can unplug electrical connectors and move things around to see what makes the short go away. When it does, the bulb will get dim or go out.
A green wire feeds the fuel pump. For my test method to work, you may only see the test bulb light up for one second when you turn on the ignition switch, then it will turn on again when you crank the engine. To get you in the right circuit, assuming the test bulb shows you the short is present, remove the fuel pump relay, then see if the test bulb indicates the short is still present. If it is, remove the "MPI", (multi-point injection) relay and try again. It would also be helpful to know exactly which fuse is blowing, but I'm not sure how yours are numbered or labeled. The MPI relay feeds a real lot of circuits and is more likely to be the one with the short. In particular, inspect the wiring harness to the oxygen sensors to see if it fell down onto hot exhaust parts.
Wednesday, September 30th, 2015 AT 8:40 PM