In your first sentence the automatic shutdown relay is working properly. In your second sentence you said both are not working at all. Last, you said the fuel pump relay is never turning on. That can't be good! And that's where we should start.
Grab a test light, (or a digital voltmeter), remove the fuel pump relay, and test for voltage on terminal 86. The voltage comes right off the ignition switch so that will have to be in the "run" position.
Next, move the ground clip for the test light to the battery positive post and probe terminal 85. We're testing for a ground circuit now. The light should light up for one second when you turn the ignition switch on and again during cranking.
One of those two circuits has to be not working. In fact, your code 1282 is for "Fuel Pump Relay Control Circuit". That's terminal 85 but the code doesn't specify if it detected that due to missing supply voltage on terminal 86 or if there is no current flow through the circuitry in the computer. In other words, did it set the code for a problem within the computer itself, a problem in the rest of the van's circuitry, or did it set simply from you pulling the relay out while the ignition switch was on? I don't know if removing the relay will set that code right away or if other conditions must also be present.
Now, here's something else that might be related. Code 123 is for the throttle position sensor signal voltage too high. 118 is for coolant temperature sensor voltage too high, and 1598 is for the air conditioning pressure sensor voltage too high. The only way any of those sensors can read too high is if there is a physical break inside it or the ground wire has a break. Now, here's where it gets interesting, and confusing. All three of those sensors share a common ground wire, so it's extremely likely that wire is open. It is very rare to have an open sensor, and it's REALLY REALLY unlikely three of them are open at the same time, unless those codes were set because they were unplugged while the ignition switch was on. That might be all that happened because there are many other sensors that also share that common ground wire and they didn't set codes. If you unplugged those three sensors, you can disregard this entire paragraph. If you didn't unplug 'em, check for voltage on dark blue / dark green wire on the throttle position sensor. That should be the easiest one to access. Normal voltage is 0.2 volts. If you find 5.0 volts, (ignition switch on), there is a break in that circuit that we have to narrow down.
To add to this, if that wire really is broken, there is a specific set of conditions that must be met for a fault code to set and one of them is that certain other codes are not already in memory. That is because the computer often compares one to another and if it knows it can't believe or trust one sensor's reading, it can't compare other sensors to it.
See where these tests take you, then holler back with what you find.
Thursday, May 5th, 2011 AT 3:11 AM