Car has no go - low engine power output?

Tiny
JIMT
  • MEMBER
  • 2001 CHEVROLET IMPALA
  • 6 CYL
Ok, 2001 impala, just bogs down when u try to accelerate takes 2 to 3 minutes to get to 40mph hooked up a diagnostic machine at a parts store. Indicated bad erg valve and secondary fan. Changed the valve and the fan along with a new fuel pump. Again its more like to much fuel as apposed to not enough. A 40 mile trip back and forth took a half tank of fuel. Also they took the car to WalMart and had a battery installed, the idjits there busted a vaccum line; but I found that and repaired it. Where do I go from here i'm pulling my hair out!
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Sunday, December 5th, 2010 AT 7:56 PM

31 Replies

Tiny
LEGITIMATE007
  • EXPERT
Have the throttle position sensor looked at, it may be no good, if your not getting any codes, and the transmission is not throwing codes, it almost sounds like the vehicle isnt going into closed loop, which indicates bad o2 sensor(s) or engine coolant temp sensor This guide can help us find the problem.

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-has-low-power-output

Please run down this guide and report back.
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Sunday, December 5th, 2010 AT 8:03 PM
Tiny
JIMT
  • MEMBER
Would that cause the car to actually bog down like its flooding out?
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Sunday, December 5th, 2010 AT 8:14 PM
Tiny
LEGITIMATE007
  • EXPERT
Yes that it would do it.
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Sunday, December 5th, 2010 AT 8:53 PM
Tiny
DAWN6133
  • MEMBER
  • 2001 CHEVROLET IMPALA
2001 Chevy Impala Automatic

My Impala just started, putting, stalling, it hesitates and has low power when you push the gas, but then power comes back, when you stop it putts, and when you stop and get out of the car it stinks, a bad odor, I dont see any leaks and it just started this last night, please help?
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Thursday, September 17th, 2020 AT 11:49 AM (Merged)
Tiny
ERNEST CLARK
  • EXPERT
First, is your "Check Engine" light illuminated? If so, then that is the first thing you need to check. You can take your vehicle to AutoZone, or any other major parts store and ask them to hook your computer to their scanner. It's free. Once you get the trouble codes, ask them for the definitions. That will point you in the right direction.

From the symptoms you describe, it sounds as if you have an exhaust restriction. Probably the catalytic converter.

To be sure, I'd need to know exactly what your "Bad odor" is. If it smells like a rotten egg, or dead rat, then your catalytic converter has gotten clogged up.

But replacing it won't solve your problem. You need to find out why you converter got clogged up and fix it, or your new one will get clogged up as well.

Most of the time, your engine is misfiring and dumping raw fuel into the exhaust. This melts down the inside of your converter and clogs it up. You need to find out why your engine is misfiring.
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Thursday, September 17th, 2020 AT 11:49 AM (Merged)
Tiny
LINDS1977
  • MEMBER
  • 2001 CHEVROLET IMPALA
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 38,800 MILES
Thanks for the help, first off. So, recently my 2001 chevy Impala seems to be missing out. It has no pick up. I recently had an oil change, also bought fuel injector cleaner and the expensive gas. Its just not shifting into next gear easily at at. I dont know if its about to explode (the engine or transmisson). If u get up to 70 the check engine light starts blinking. I gotta take it in but any ideas what it sounds like? Much appreicated and good karma to you and yours.
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Thursday, September 17th, 2020 AT 11:49 AM (Merged)
Tiny
SERVICE WRITER
  • EXPERT
Too much fuel is entering the combustion chambers and not being burned efficiently. The raw fuel is getting into the converter and damaging it.

DON'T PUT THIS OFF!

You may need a converter if it is too late and whatever the source of the problem is.

The OEM converter warranties are 8years/80,000 miles through the dealer.
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Thursday, September 17th, 2020 AT 11:49 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JAMIE78,
  • MEMBER
  • 2001 CHEVROLET IMPALA
  • 3.4L
  • V6
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 175,000 MILES
When I accelerate the car weather in park or in Drive I get a squealing noise while in drive and accelerating I get a loss in power I replace the power steering pump redid the water pump had alternator tested put a new tensioner arm on it new serpentine belt
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Thursday, September 17th, 2020 AT 11:50 AM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
  • EXPERT
Disconnect belt and start car if no squeal it may be an alternator bearing or idler bearing causing it. If squeal is still present then have engine checked. May be a dry seal or something similar.
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Thursday, September 17th, 2020 AT 11:50 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JROB77US
  • MEMBER
  • 2001 CHEVROLET IMPALA
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 86,000 MILES
I have a 01 impala with a 3.8 that has no power under acceleration. The only code it had was a p0300, I replaced the plugs and wires and nothing, I then replaced the ignition module and the cam sensor under a friends direction but still nothing. When the vehicle is in park it runs great, with the exception of a minor skip. There are no catalyst, egr, or o2 sensor codes so I don't think it would be a plugged up catalytic converter. Since I replaced the plugs and wires I no longer get any codes but the car stills falls on its face going down the road. Any ideas?
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Thursday, September 17th, 2020 AT 11:50 AM (Merged)
Tiny
DOCFIXIT
  • EXPERT
Have you checked fuel pressure? 52-61 psi
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Thursday, September 17th, 2020 AT 11:50 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JROB77US
  • MEMBER
Yes fuel pressure is good, looks like its the catalytic converter, drove the car with the egr removed and it ran great, of course this is after gas extremely hot gases from the egr melted a hole in the top of the upper intake and I had to replace that before any further testing. The only thing that is still puzzling is why wouldn't it throw an egr or o2 sensor code?
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Thursday, September 17th, 2020 AT 11:50 AM (Merged)
Tiny
DOCFIXIT
  • EXPERT
Yes think P0420 would show but CAT is it with that much heat backed up to EGR to melt. Maybe partial blockage and enough function left to keep O2 from setting.
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Thursday, September 17th, 2020 AT 11:50 AM (Merged)
Tiny
PBMB04
  • MEMBER
We have a 2002 Impala with the 3.8 v6 engine.
The car also had no pick-up. The problem was the cat. We found out the there was an extented warranty on some models with certain converters.
We had one of those and it saved us plenty.
Could your problem fall in this situation, I hope.
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Thursday, September 17th, 2020 AT 11:50 AM (Merged)
Tiny
URODRIGUEZ
  • MEMBER
Where would I find out if there is and extended warranty on my cat converter?
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Thursday, September 17th, 2020 AT 11:50 AM (Merged)
Tiny
PBMB04
  • MEMBER
Our Chevy dealer told us when we called about acceleration problem. He needed our vin number for the car to see if our cat was under the warranty by Chevy.
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Thursday, September 17th, 2020 AT 11:50 AM (Merged)
Tiny
LISAGILPIN
  • MEMBER
  • 2001 CHEVROLET IMPALA
  • 3.8L
  • V6
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 100,000 MILES
I changed the cat converter out and now it bogs upon acceleration, its has no codes coming up has great fuel pressure o2 sensors are good why is it bogging!
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Thursday, September 17th, 2020 AT 11:50 AM (Merged)
Tiny
STEVE W.
  • EXPERT
Did you use a factory converter or an after market unit? Was it changed because of a past code?

If the converter was changed out for damage it is possible that some of it could have already broken off and is plugging the exhaust father downstream. You can do a back pressure test using a low pressure gauge in the O2 sensor port, ideally you want to see under 2-3 psi for a good exhaust. Or if you are not in a town you could remove the upstream O2 and see if the bog lessens or goes away.
A sort of quick test would be to hold a piece of paper or your hand over the exhaust and have someone start the car after it was cold. Have them step hard on the throttle and see if the exhaust increases to match the engine. Just be careful as it will get hot fast.
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Thursday, September 17th, 2020 AT 11:50 AM (Merged)
Tiny
TOM BRADY7
  • MEMBER
  • 2000 CHEVROLET IMPALA
  • 6 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 140,000 MILES
Car sometimes stalls while driving. It is sluggish while accelerating and feels like its losing power.
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Thursday, September 17th, 2020 AT 11:50 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
Hi and thanks for using 2CarPros.

This can be a couple different things. For example, a weak fuel pump, a plugged catalytic converter, and many other things.

If the check engine light stays on when the engine is running, I suggest having the computer scanned for diagnostic trouble codes. Here is a quick video that shows how it is done:

https://youtu.be/YV3TRZwer8k

I realize most people don't own a scanner, but most times a parts store will check it for free. If the light is on all the time, have that done and let me know the codes which are found. If you find a P0420 as one of the diagnostic trouble codes, then my next suggest becomes very relevant.

Next, and after reading your post, my first suspect is a partially plugged catalytic converter. Take a look through this link:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/bad-catalytic-converter-symptoms

Here is a link that shows how to test a converter:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-test-a-catalytic-converter

Try these things first. If you find the converter is bad, here are the directions for replacement. The attached pictures correlate with these directions.

CATALYTIC CONVERTER REPLACEMENT
Removal Procedure
The three way catalytic converter is serviced by replacing the entire assembly. Always replace the gasket at the front flange when servicing the three way catalytic converter. Never reinstall the original gasket.

1. Raise and suitably support the vehicle. Refer to Vehicle Lifting.
2. Disconnect the heated oxygen sensor electrical connector.
3. Remove the exhaust manifold pipe stud nuts.

4. Remove the catalytic converter bolts.
5. Remove the three way catalytic converter.

6. Remove the heated oxygen sensor. Refer to Heated Oxygen Sensor (H02S) Replacement (H02SI) or Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) Replacement (H02S2) in Computers and Controls.

Installation Procedure

1. Install the heated oxygen sensor. Refer to Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO25) Replacement (H02S1) or Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) Replacement (H02S2) in Computers and Controls.

2. Install a new exhaust manifold pipe gasket.

Notice: Refer to Catalytic Converter Movement Notice in Service Precautions.

3. Install and support the three way catalytic converter.
4. Install the catalytic converter bolts.

Notice: Refer to Fastener Notice in Service Precautions.

5. Install the exhaust manifold pipe stud nuts.
- Tighten the exhaust manifold pipe stud nuts to 32 Nm (24 ft. lbs.).
- Tighten the catalytic converter bolts to 45 Nm (33 ft. lbs.).

6. Connect the heated oxygen sensor electrical connector.
7. Inspect for leaks and underbody contact.
8. Lower the vehicle.

_______________________________________

Let me know if this helps or if you have other questions.

Take care,
Joe
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Thursday, September 17th, 2020 AT 11:50 AM (Merged)

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