I have been having trans issues for a little bit. Then driving on the highway was getting a itermediate 500-750 rpms rise/slipping.
Then I got cel and tcs lights. Read code, lock up malfuntion.
So I bought the lock up solenoid set the external filter and did a drain and refill.
Around town driving shifted much better without any slipping.I drove for about 30 minutes away and started to feel slipping.I turned around and before I could make it home the car was slipping worse than it has ever.
I pulled into a gas station. Pulled the fuse to reset the ecu. After about 5 minutes I started the car with no lights They turned back on with in 2 minutes. Finally got home.
This morning I removed, cleaned and reinstalled all pressure switches/sensors/solenoids, all tubes and screens under the solenoids.
cel and tcs lights are off. Now I have a blinking d5 light.
Drove around town fine today and went for about a 15 minute ride over 55 without the cel or tcs lights returning and no bad slippage.
I did not go for a long drive and my problem seamed like the trans started to have problem when it was hot and when I would be on highway cruses. Like a bad converter.
I have not got the d5 light read yet.
I think about the only thing left I could do from the out side of the trans in maybe a temp sensor and another drain and refill before seperating the trans from the motor.
If anyone has a idea what to try before making a big choice, I'm all ears.
Get the trouble codes read first. That would be the first step to take.
January, 17, 2011 AT 6:00 PM
I got code for the blinking d5 light just now and is showing aft temp sensor like I was thinking.
I just order one to see if it helps or possibly just another waste of money.
What are the symptoms of a bad trans temp sensor?
January, 18, 2011 AT 12:01 AM
What was the trouble retrieved?
Is there any other DTC?
You should have tested the temp sensor to check if it is bad before replacement. It could be a loose connection as you were working on components around it.
No specific reference is made to a bad temp sensor in our database so I am not sure of all the issues it can cause. One thing is for sure, when a sensor is deemed to have failed, the TCM/PCM would substitute its control reference and that could affect shift quality.
January, 18, 2011 AT 1:10 AM
First code was p0740.
With the d5 blinking, p0710.
I will check the connector to the temp sensor when it's light out.
Thanks for your input.
Also my car use to spin the tires easily of the line now it feels like I have traction control on with maybe a chirp.I assume that is damage from not catching the issue soon enough.
Only symptoms I have heard was a trans will try to select a higher gear to protect the trans if the temp sensor is reading high.
I don't know how it makes the trans act if it's reading too low.
I think when it's bad it can read either to high or to low.
But, I've yet to hear solid answers to symptoms of a bad trans temp sensor. On acura anyway.
We shall see what if anything it does when hondapartsunlimited get the part to me.
Can't do much till then.
I've been pricing 2006 odyssey trannys for a supposedly a upgrade for the 2nd gen cl/tl's just in case the trans is toast.
No sense on rebuilding the same trans that is known for failure IMO
January, 18, 2011 AT 12:44 PM
Here are the diagnostic procedures for both codes.
DTC P0740/40: LOCK-UP CONTROL SYSTEM
1. Using scan tool, retrieve A/T freeze data. Clear DTCs and road test vehicle under same conditions freeze data was recorded. If DTC returns, go to next step. If DTC does not return, problem is intermittent. Check transaxle and PCM connections.
2. Using scan tool, check for any other DTCs. If any other DTCs are present, repair those DTCs first and recheck for DTC P0740/40. If no other DTCs are present, go to next step.
3. Measure clutch pressure at each clutch pressure tap on transaxle. If all clutch pressures are within specification, go to next step. If any clutch pressure is not within specification, repair hydraulic system as necessary.
4. Replace lock-up control solenoid assembly and A/T clutch pressure control solenoid valve "C". Turn ignition off and clear codes. Ensure engine coolant temperature is greater than 176 F (80 C). Road test vehicle at 55 MPH for more than one minute. Recheck DTCs. If DTC P0740/40 returns, replace transaxle and torque converter. If DTC P0740/40 does not return, system is okay.
DTC P0710/28: ATF TEMPERATURE SENSOR
1. Using scan tool, retrieve A/T freeze data. Clear DTCs and road test vehicle under same conditions freeze data was recorded. If DTC returns, go to next step. If DTC does not return, problem is intermittent.
2. Disconnect ATF temperature sensor connector. Measure resistance between sensor component connector terminals. If resistance is 50-2500 ohms, go to next step. If resistance is not 50-2500 ohms, replace ATF temperature sensor.
3. Turn ignition on. Measure voltage between ground and terminal No. 2 (Blue/Yellow wire) on ATF temperature sensor harness connector. If voltage is about 5 volts, go to next step. If voltage is not about 5 volts, go to step 5.
4. Measure voltage between terminals on ATF temperature sensor harness connector. If voltage is about 5 volts, inspect for loose PCM harness connectors. Repair as necessary. If no problem is found, replace PCM with a known-good unit and retest. If voltage is not about 5 volts, repair open in Blue/Yellow wire between ATF temperature sensor and PCM.
5. By backprobing PCM connector "C", measure voltage between ground and terminal No. 24. If voltage is about 5 volts, repair open in Blue/Yellow wire between PCM and ATF temperature sensor. If voltage is not about 5 volts, go to next step.
6. Turn ignition off. Disconnect PCM harness connector "C". Check continuity between ground and terminal No. 24 on PCM harness connector "C". If continuity exists, repair short to ground in Blue/Yellow wire between PCM and ATF temperature sensor. If continuity does not exist, inspect for loose PCM harness connectors. Repair as necessary. If no problem is found, replace PCM with a known-good unit and retest.