No spark?

Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
Hi,

If the spark is weak and grounds are good, it sounds like the coil itself is bad. However, there are a couple other things that can cause it. I would suggest checking it. Here are the directions for testing the coil, air gap on the pic up coil, and the pick up coil itself. I realize the coil is new as well as the pick up coil, but new parts can be bad.

The attached pics will correlate with these directions.

________________________________________

1996 Toyota Corolla Sedan L4-96.8 1587cc 1.6L DOHC (4A-FE)
Component Tests and General Diagnostics
Vehicle Powertrain Management Ignition System Ignition Coil Testing and Inspection Component Tests and General Diagnostics
COMPONENT TESTS AND GENERAL DIAGNOSTICS
DISTRIBUTOR INSPECTION

NOTICE: "Cold" and "Hot" in the following sentences express the temperature of the coils themselves.
"Cold" is from - 10 C (14 F) to 50 C (122 F) and
"Hot" is from 50 C (122 F) to 100 C (212 F).

1. DISCONNECT DISTRIBUTOR CONNECTOR
2. REMOVE DISTRIBUTOR CAP
3. REMOVE ROTOR
4. REMOVE IGNITION COIL DUST COVER

Ignition Coil

pic 1

5. INSPECT PRIMARY COIL RESISTANCE
- Using an ohmmeter. Measure the resistance between the positive (+) and negative (-) terminals.

Primary coil resistance:
Cold: 0.36 - 0.55 ohm
Hot: 0.45 - 0.65 ohm

- If the resistance is not as specified, replace the ignition coil.

Pic 2

6. INSPECT SECONDARY COIL RESISTANCE
- Using an ohmmeter, measure the resistance between the positive (+) and high-tension terminals.

Secondary coil resistance:
Cold: 9.0 - 15.4 K ohm
Hot: 11.4 - 18.1 K ohm

- If the resistance is not as specified, replace the ignition coil.

Distributor

pic 3

7. INSPECT AIR GAP
- Using a feeler gauge, measure the air gap between the signal rotor and pickup coil projection.

Air gap: 0.2 - 0.4 mm (0.008 - 0.016 in.)

- If the air gap is not as specified, replace the distributor housing assembly.

Pic 4

8. INSPECT SIGNAL GENERATOR (PICKUP COIL) RESISTANCE
- Using an ohmmeter, measure the resistance between the terminals.

Pickup coil resistance:
Cold: G (+) and G(-): 185 - 275 ohm
Hot: G (+) and G(-): 240 - 325 ohm

- If the resistance is not as specified, replace the distributor housing assembly.
9. REINSTALL IGNITION COIL DUST COVER
10. REINSTALL ROTOR
11. REINSTALL DISTRIBUTOR CAP
12. RECONNECT DISTRIBUTOR CONNECTOR

____________________________

Let me know if this helps. If you can't do this, let me know. I don't like recommending replacing parts until I'm sure what is bad. However, if you don't feel confident in performing these tests, I would start with the coil. Since you recently replaced it, it should be under warranty. Make sure the air gap on the pick up coil is good.

Let me know.

Joe
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Saturday, December 26th, 2020 AT 2:19 PM (Merged)
Tiny
PACIFICISLANDER
  • MEMBER
Thank you very much. Joe the virus lock us down cannot really go get the things for the car. I'll let you what's up.
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Saturday, December 26th, 2020 AT 2:19 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
Not a problem. I hope you are doing well. Stay safe!

Joe
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Saturday, December 26th, 2020 AT 2:19 PM (Merged)
Tiny
TAMIOTT
  • MEMBER
  • 1995 TOYOTA COROLLA
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • MANUAL
  • 278,000 MILES
Car ran fine on Saturday. On Sunday it would turn over but not fire. No spark to the plugs. Replaced coil, rotor and cap. No fire to them. Appears to not have power to the external igniter. Help.
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Saturday, December 26th, 2020 AT 2:19 PM (Merged)
Tiny
2CEXPT
  • MEMBER
Check the distributor pick up coil -the computer has to get the Ne and G signals in order for the computer to tell the ignitor to fire the coil.
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Saturday, December 26th, 2020 AT 2:19 PM (Merged)
Tiny
PACIFICISLANDER
  • MEMBER
Okay. Coil Resistances:

Primary 0.9 Secondary 11.79 ohms go/no-go
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Saturday, December 26th, 2020 AT 2:19 PM (Merged)
Tiny
TAMIOTT
  • MEMBER
I am not sure what you mean. Does the pickup coil replace the points and condenser? Also, could the problem possibly be the crankshaft position sensor. When I did a continuity test on it, it didn't have continuity.
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Saturday, December 26th, 2020 AT 2:19 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
If those tests were done cold, the primary is out of spec, but the secondary is within spec. Since it isn't spec, I would say it's bad. Did you check the pick up coil?

Joe
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Saturday, December 26th, 2020 AT 2:19 PM (Merged)
Tiny
2CEXPT
  • MEMBER
Yes the pick-up coil takes its place. If its 1.8L engine it has the CPS. The CPS resistance Cold should be 1630-2740 ohms Hot -2065-3225 ohms
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Saturday, December 26th, 2020 AT 2:19 PM (Merged)
Tiny
PACIFICISLANDER
  • MEMBER
Yes, the pick coil has the right gap and the capacitor is okay.
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Saturday, December 26th, 2020 AT 2:19 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
Hi,

The only thing that is out of spec then is the coil. It isn't that far out, but that is the only thing I would try simply because of the readings you got.

Let me know.
Joe
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Saturday, December 26th, 2020 AT 2:19 PM (Merged)
Tiny
PACIFICISLANDER
  • MEMBER
Okay Joe, the coil is messed up. Thank you.
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Saturday, December 26th, 2020 AT 2:19 PM (Merged)
Tiny
1975RANGER
  • MEMBER
  • 1995 TOYOTA COROLLA
  • 140,582 MILES
I was going to instal a battery in my sisters car and when I was putting
it in I notised that it was backward anyways it sparked so unhooked it
an installed back in the right way and tryed to start it and the car would'nt do any thing no light nothing so I checked all the fuses and found that the 100a fuse was blown so I replaced it and now the car crank
over and all the eleconics work but it won't start I also checked to see
if it was getting spark and it not getting spark
so I checked to see if the distibutor was getting power with the key on
and it getting 12.40v but I was'nt getting spark spark so got a used distibutor and installed it and still not getting spark
also had the ignition modoule check at autozone and the said it was good
i dont no what to check next any help would greatly Appreciated.

Thanks in advance
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Saturday, December 26th, 2020 AT 2:19 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • EXPERT
Stop throwing parts at it. You most likely have more fuses blown. Check them first before you go broke throwing unneeded parts into the car.

Roy
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Saturday, December 26th, 2020 AT 2:19 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
You are very welcome. If you get a chance, please let me know if this takes care of the problem.

Take good care of yourself.

Joe
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Saturday, December 26th, 2020 AT 2:19 PM (Merged)
Tiny
1975RANGER
  • MEMBER
Thanks I checked all fuses under hood and in fuse panel under dash but the distibutor is geting power but theres no spark
thats why I replaced it be still no spark
i check all that I could see,

do you no where I should look
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Saturday, December 26th, 2020 AT 2:19 PM (Merged)
Tiny
PACIFICISLANDER
  • MEMBER
What powers the injectors is it the EFI relay or the EFI fuse? Something is not right it seems the injectors are not energizing intermittently, but when I check it with voltmeter it's pulsing.
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Saturday, December 26th, 2020 AT 2:19 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • EXPERT
Well, we know it is not the distributor. Usually when this happens it blows several fuses. There are also some fusible links off the positive batter cable that need to be checked.
Go back over all the fuses with a test light and the links as well.

Roy
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Saturday, December 26th, 2020 AT 2:19 PM (Merged)
Tiny
JACOBANDNICKOLAS
  • EXPERT
Hi,

That is a great question. I looked through the schematic and found the power from the ignition switch powers all the igniter and fuel injection See pic 2. It appears the ECM provides a ground path for injection to occur. I did notice there is a splice in the wire between the ignition and injectors. Take a look at the attached pic. You may want to check that splice.

As far as the books definition of the injection system, here it is:

SFI system Monitors the Engine Revolutions through the signals each sensor (Input Signals (1) to (12)) inputs to the Engine Control Module. Based on this data and the program memorized in the Engine Control Module (ECU), the most appropriate fuel Injection timing is decided and current is output to terminals #10, #20, #30 and #40 of the Engine Control Module, causing the Injectors to operate it (to Inject fuel). It is this system which, through the work of the Engine Control Module, finely controls fuel Injection in response to driving conditions.
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Saturday, December 26th, 2020 AT 2:19 PM (Merged)
Tiny
PACIFICISLANDER
  • MEMBER
Okay Joe, did some investigation the EFI relay socket pin 85 and 86 are not being powered up jump it with hot wire and it works everything works now. Thank you very much. See you in the next session. Thank you again my friend.
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Saturday, December 26th, 2020 AT 2:19 PM (Merged)

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