2000 Chrysler Sebring - no crank, no click, no start.

  • 2.5L
  • V6
  • 137,000 MILES
2000 Chrysler Sebring Convertible. Forgive my ignorance in some area, I am not experienced with cars in the slightest. I have only gotten to as far as I’m at now by googling my symptoms for a very long time with no luck on a solution.

Symptoms Before No Crank/No Start:

Dies while idling.
Sometimes it would crank longer than normal before it eventually start.
“ABS” light on (I don’t think this is related)
“Trac off” on ( I don’t think this is related)

Symptoms After No Crank/No Start:

Turning key - no sound, no crank, no clicking, all inside electricals turn on including radio.
same symptoms for park, neutral, and all gears.

Now I checked fuse 8 (20a), it looks fine. But to be sure I swap it with several surrounding 20a fuses, no change.

I checked the ASD relay and Starter relay. Swapped them around with the fan relays (identical part number) many times with no change.

I am getting a spark.

Heres where this start getting specific…. Shorting out the starter causes the gear motor to spin, but doesn’t actually turn it on fully or crank. However, pulling the plastic case from the starter relay and shorting it causes the starter to crank. The engine does not turn over still.

While these test were being performed the key was in the fully forward position for example the four positions, I believe, are acc-off-run-start (I am unsure if this is accurate or not). I also attempted manually tripping both the ASD relay and the Starter relay simultaneously to perhaps influence some fuel to be directed to wherever it might need to go.

Now then, I sprayed starter fluid in whilst manually tripping the Starter relay, and it will turn over briefly.

Things I have not tried:

Removing battery terminals for attempting a hard reset, mainly due to the very inconvenient battery location.

Bypassing the Neutral Safety Switch located in the transmission.

I don’t know how or have the gauge to check fuel pressure.

I have not attempted to manually spin the crankshaft (I think thats what it’s called) with a socket wrench. I did try to tug on the belt to see if it would easily turn by hand but it was stiff.

I have not tried installing a new Ignition Key/Switch. (I assume that involves resetting or reconfiguring some sort of securty or controller device so I don’t just get locked out by the alarm anti theft stuff.) If it is just a simple drop in replacment type install then I would like to know that as well.

What I really need is someone to chime in and let me know what and how I should check in order to rule out and narrow down my possibilities. Replacing things one by one is not an option for me until I have exhausted every option that requires little to no spending. I don’t mind buying little things if I need them to test, but purchasing an entire starter, for example, just to perform a ‘trial and error’ test is the kind of thing I’m trying to avoid for now.

I want to thank you for your time and thank you for any replies in advance. I naturally depend very much on my vehicle, and need it fixed as soon as possible.
Do you
have the same problem?
Tuesday, July 15th, 2014 AT 7:34 PM

1 Reply

First lets clear up a few things so we're talking about the same symptoms. "Cranking" and "turning over" are the same thing. It has to be turning over to have spark, but if you have to bypass or hand-activate the starter relay to make the starter crank the engine, there are multiple problems if the engine still won't start when you do that.

If you have spark during cranking, that verifies about 95 percent of the circuitry is working. That leaves the fuel pump and valve timing. You should hear the hum of the fuel pump for one second after turning on the ignition switch. It should turn on again during cranking but you won't be able to hear that. If your engine has a fuel pressure test port on the fuel rail, you can press the valve to see if there's pressure there. It looks like a tire valve. If there's proper pressure, the fuel will spray a few feet in the air.

Don't disconnect the battery. There is nothing to "reset", and you will introduce new problems. You'll erase any fault codes that have been stored, and you'll lose that valuable information. Also, the engine idle speed will be so low that it will be hard to start even when all the other problems are fixed, and it will stall at stop signs.
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Tuesday, July 15th, 2014 AT 8:39 PM

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