Fuse 13 burn all the time

See if this helps, it is a connector end view of C1 connector. The picture is a bit hard to identify with any detail, but you are in the right place.

F

Connector Part Information

�

15303512

�

68 Way F Metri-Pack 280 Series (GRY)

Pin

Wire Color

Circuit No.

Function

A1

ORN

1140

Battery Positive Voltage (B+)

A2

�

�

Not Used

A3

BRN/WHT

309

Park Lamp Feed - Right

A4

ORN

2247

Fuse Output - Sunshade (Export)

A5

ORN

3240

Fuse Output - Battery (w/UY4, UE7/UE9)

A6

�

�

Not Used

A7

YEL

32

Fuse Output - Lamps

A8

�

�

Not Used

A9

ORN

1740

Battery Positive Voltage

A10

BRN

141

Ignition Positive Voltage

A11

ORN

300

Ignition Positive Voltage

A12-B1

�

�

Not Used

B2

YEL

1139

Ignition Positive Voltage

B3

BRN/WHT

309

Park Lamp Feed - Right (Domestic)

B4

YEL

32

Fuse Output - IP Lamps

B5

PNK/BLK

1615

Park Relay Output - Coil

B6

LT GRN

275

Park Relay Output - Switch Side

B7

DK GRN

646

Reverse Relay Coil Control (Export)

B8

LT GRN

24

Back-up Lamp Feed

B9-C4

�

�

Not Used

C5

ORN

1640

Battery Positive Voltage (B+)

C8

LT GRN

24

Back-Up Lamp Feed

C9

ORN

540

Battery Positive Voltage (B+)

C10

�

�

Not Used

C11

BRN

41

Ignition Positive Voltage (DTS)

C12

BRN

241

Ignition Positive Voltage

D1

�

�

Not Used

D2

BLK

750

Ground

D3

�

�

Not Used

D4

DK GRN

1483

Control Power Output

D5

�

�

Not Used

D8

LT GRN

24

Back Up Lamp Feed (w/JL4 or w/T90)

D9

PNK

70

Ignition Positive Voltage

D10

DK GRN

1399

Cigar Relay Coil Control

D11

BRN

41

Ignition Positive Voltage (w/o?B9Q)

D12

�

�

Not Used

E1

ORN

2840

Battery Positive Voltage (B+) (w/o?B9Q)

E2- E3

�

�

Not Used

E4

PPL

709

Park Lamp Feed - Left (Domestic)

E5

�

�

Not Used

E6

PPL

709

Park Lamp Feed - Left

E7, E8

�

�

Not Used

E9

ORN

540

Battery Positive Voltage (B+)

E10

ORN

540

Battery Positive Voltage (B+)

E11

BRN

41

Ignition Positive Voltage

E12

ORN

3740

Ignition Positive Voltage

F1

GRN DK /WHT

465

Fuel Pump Relay Feed - Coil

F2

GRY

120

Fuel Pump Motor Feed

F3

WHT

1080

Park Lamp Relay Control

F4

�

�

Not Used

F5

ORN

840

Battery Positive Voltage (B+) (w/o?B9Q)

F6

�

�

Not Used

F7

BRN

741

Ignition Positive Voltage (w/UV2)

F8

BRN

741

Ignition Positive Voltage (w/UV2)

F9-F10

�

�

Not Used

F11

BRN

41

Ignition Positive Voltage

F12

ORN

3740

Battery Positive Voltage

If you were talking to I computer savvy person, I would have no problem doing that. What you see, is what you get. I see that all the information is spread out, and difficult to interpret. The format is this, the alpha-numeric number is connector terminal #(e.G. A1), next is wire color, after that is circuit #, and lastly a description of circuit(e.G. Ignition positive voltage. If you created a grid with four columns, you would lay the information out in that order. Anything with a dash(-), is a vacant cavity.

I don't understand why it would take so long, look at the connector body, and find the two terminals that you are after. Process of elimination should direct you to the correct ones. There are only three yellow wires in that entire C1 connector.

I do believe you have them numbered in reverse, but that is no problem. Your first row is the A row, and shows one yellow wire in A7. The next row up is B row, you have yellow wires in B2, and B4. Disregard B2, and B4 is the one you labeled bad. What defines bad, shorted to ground, loose terminal, explain 'bad'. Judging from the schematic, that wire runs to the front of the passenger compartment, to the dash integration module. If it is shorted to ground, you will need to locate that module, disconnect it, and recheck the wire for a short to ground. If it is still grounded, you have a short somewhere in that circuit.

Now I am confused. Yesterday you said you installed a fuse holder in the circuit and determined it was on terminal B4 that the short to ground was. If this was the case, you should have simply disconnected the DIM, measured that circuit for continuity to ground, and started looking for the short along the wires routing path. You've got blown off course. Checks for short to ground should not be performed with key on, you will get incorrect results. With both ends of a wire disconnected from a component, if you still show continuity to ground, the wire is shorted.

Inside the frame with the braid cable, I am not certain what your talking about. If it is heading toward the rear of the vehicle, it is going to the lic plate lights. Running toward the front it is feeding the turn signal switch(multifunction). There is a connector in one branch of the circuit that has a connector in it(C202). If you can find that connector, and disconnect it, check your wire for a short. If you detect no short from the wire to C202, check it from C202. This is breaking the circuit down. If it is going to the rear, follow it past the hinge, and to the rear lic plate lights. I would suspect you will either find it grounded at the license plate pocket mounting, or chaffed at the park brake mechanism.

Chewed through, pinched, and shorted to the chassis.

At C202, there is only 1 yellow wire to be concerned with. Pin A8 is circuit 32, from the fuse block to the turn signal switch. If you have C202 disconnected, and C1 at the fuse block, put an ohmmeter lead in the terminal that has 2 yellow wires(at C1), and you should be able to locate A8 with the other meter lead. Once you find the wire between the fuse block and C202, leave one meter lead in either end, and touch a good ground. If you have low resistance to ground, it is shorted somewhere between the fuse block and the harness side of C202, this will also include other wire that runs to the license plate lamps. You would have to separate the two yellow wires from the one terminal, because if you show a short to ground, it still could be in the wire to the license plate lamps. If you had three separate wires at the fuse block, you could check each the same way. With the license plate bulbs installed in the sockets, you will have continuity to ground through the bulb filaments, so keep that in mind. I'll tell you what I would do. Working from the fuse block, with C202 and the DIM disconnected, and the license plate bulbs removed, or disconnected if there are connectors to the sockets, Take an ohmmeter with one lead to ground(battery negative post is real close, and the best ground), probe each of the yellow wires at C1 with the other lead. Whichever lead you have low resistance to ground on, is your shorted wire. This is all under the assumption that the fuse immediately opens any time you replace it. If it is intermittent, we have been spinning wheels. What you can be faced with if you have connections made, or a key on, is a misleading continuity to ground through completed circuits, and you will chase your tail. Checking for ground should be open-ended, wires only, very basic. In my opinion, if you are continuously blowing fuses, the short to ground should be easy to find.