Stalls while driving, otherwise runs beautifully

Tiny
MZQWNBRI GALPIN
  • MEMBER
  • 2000 FORD CROWN VICTORIA
  • 4.6L
  • V8
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 160,000 MILES
Has a slow leak and I have to charge it 2 times week, anyways.
yesterday I was driving after I charged my A/C a little and the
car stalled at 70 mph. Did not shut off all the way but oil light
and (low fuel I think) lights blinked on for a few seconds
and car sounded rough and when a few seconds went by I
pushed the gas and everything was normal again. Did it
probably 3-4 more times that drive. And again today.
Please help. I just got this car and I have plans for it. I want it
to be pristine. :-(
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Friday, July 24th, 2020 AT 11:37 AM

5 Replies

Tiny
KASEKENNY1
  • EXPERT
There are a number of things that can cause this namely a failing oil pump, fuel pump, or just a faulty computer.

Here is a guide that run through a lot of the common things:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-stalls

We need to really start with checking for codes. Here is a guide that will help with this or just stop by a parts store and they should be able to pull them for you:

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/checking-a-service-engine-soon-or-check-engine-light-on-or-flashing

Let me know what you find with this and we can go from there. Thanks
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Friday, July 24th, 2020 AT 2:07 PM
Tiny
MZQWNBRI GALPIN
  • MEMBER
Thank you sir for your response. As much as I don't want to hear the first one, none are fun to fix. There are no codes at all. I bought it with a blown ECU relay and fuel pump fuse. I do not know what made them go out in the first place. But while under the car my friend asked about the camshaft sensor and its location. I do not know if he messed with it.
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Friday, July 24th, 2020 AT 2:19 PM
Tiny
KASEKENNY1
  • EXPERT
So if there are no codes then that means the PCM is not seeing anything wrong. That could indicate a cam/crank issue so I would definitely make sure the pins are tight and the connectors are fully seated. However, a crank sensor would normally just cut the engine off like a light switch. The cam sensor could cause some issues but again, I would expect a code.

From there we need to get this to act up again and monitor fuel pressure and if you have a scan tool then we need to see what the o2 sensor are doing when it acts up. I suspect they are going rich and causing the rough running then when you accelerate you are introducing more air which may smooth it out.

Do you have a scan tool that can monitor the live data?
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Friday, July 24th, 2020 AT 5:59 PM
Tiny
MZQWNBRI GALPIN
  • MEMBER
Figured it out and it was the simplest stupidest and easy thing ever.
The old driver had stereo equipment in it and when he took it out he left hot power wires opened ended every where. Well, when I got the car I went through the whole thing and got rid of them. Well, the main hot to the battery box was attached edd f to the bolt on the power box, so I unscrewed it and got rid of it. Well, I didn't tighten it well enough and with vibration and driving down good ol'California roads caused it to loosen more and cut out more.
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Tuesday, July 28th, 2020 AT 1:55 PM
Tiny
KASEKENNY1
  • EXPERT
Always seems to be something so simple. Glad you got it figured out. Thanks for the update and thanks for using 2CarPros.
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Tuesday, July 28th, 2020 AT 6:42 PM

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