1999 Ford Taurus Door Lock Problem

Tiny
MARK DAVIS
  • MEMBER
  • 1999 FORD TAURUS
  • 6 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 64,000 MILES
All doors worked fine, then all at the same time all 4 door locks quit working, with the remote or either switch in doors. You can hear relays click and feel the actuators try to unlock. The first time you try the lock or unlock button, they try a little harder with a decreasing effort as you continue to push the button. I am not 100% sure of this as I just bought this car, but I think when this problem started the auto lock feature when the car is shifted through park was enabled by itself. As before this problem I do not remember them locking when shifting to or past park, and now I can hear the relays and actuators try to lock the doors. I just have a hard time believing that all 4 actuators would go at once unless something else caused the problem.
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Tuesday, February 8th, 2011 AT 3:50 PM

5 Replies

Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • EXPERT
System has a Generic Electronic Module (GEM) which has self diagnostic functions and New Generation Star (NGS) tester can retrieve trouble codes if any are stored. These are B codes and only appropriate scan tool would be able to retrieve the trouble codes.

Checking for trouble codes would help in understand the problem and possible causes. I would suggest getting a scan done first.
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Tuesday, February 8th, 2011 AT 4:32 PM
Tiny
MARK DAVIS
  • MEMBER
No codes are in the system, I just verified that the auto lock feature was not enabled when I bought the car and is now on. Have put 12v to one actuator and same thing, try's but will not lock or unlock. Can not read voltage coming from car as it is momentary and will not read on my meter. So I would say that the actuators are all shot but why? All 4 at one time? Only 64,000 on a 1999 car?
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Tuesday, February 8th, 2011 AT 4:43 PM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • EXPERT
The chances of all 4 actuators failing at the same time can be considered as a one in a million chances and would be hard to believe.

Test all other actuator by applying battery voltage and if all are found to be faulty, I don't believe anybody can answer your question of how and why it occurred thus.

Try the following to see if you can come up with anything.

TEST G: ALL DOORS WILL NOT UNLOCK FROM INTERIOR DOOR LOCK SWITCHES OR DOOR LOCK CYLINDER SWITCHES

1. Press driver's power door lock switch to LOCK position. If doors lock, go to next step. If doors do not lock, go to step 5.

2. Remove all door lock relay. Relay is located behind instrument panel, to right of steering column. See Fig. 1. Measure resistance in Black wire between ground and terminal No. 87A at all door lock relay harness connector. See Fig. 11. If resistance is 5 ohms or less, go
to next step. If resistance is greater than 5 ohms repair open in Black wire between terminal No. 87A at all door lock relay harness connector C255 see Fig. 15 and ground G201 (located at left kick panel).

3. Remove all door unlock relay. Press driver's power door lock switch to UNLOCK position. Measure resistance in Pink/Light Green wire between ground and terminal No. 85 all door unlock relay harness connector C256. If resistance is 5 ohms or less, go to next step. If resistance is greater than 5 ohms, repair open in Pink/Light Green wire between terminal No. 3 at driver's power door lock switch harness connector C510, splice S200 (located at left kick panel) and terminal No. 85 at all door unlock relay harness connector C256.

4. Measure voltage in Black/White wire between ground and terminal No. 87 at all door unlock relay harness connector C256. If battery voltage exists, replace all door unlock relay. If battery voltage does not exist, repair open in Black/White wire between No. 4 (30-amp fuse) at Battery Junction Box (BJB), splice S204 (located to right of all door unlock relay) and terminal No. 87 at all door unlock relay harness connector C256.

5. Remove all door lock relay. Relay is located behind instrument panel, right of steering column. See Fig. 1. Measure voltage in Black/White wire between ground and terminal No. 86 at all door lock relay harness connector C255. See Fig. 11. If battery voltage exists, go to next step. If battery voltage does not exist, repair open in Black/White wire between No. 4 (30-amp fuse) at Battery Junction Box (BJB), splice S204 (located to right of all door unlock relay) and terminal No. 86 at all door lock relay harness connector C255.

6. Measure resistance in Pink/Yellow wire between ground and terminal No. 85 at all door lock relay harness connector C255. Press driver's power door lock switch to LOCK position. If resistance is 5 ohms or less, replace all door lock relay. If resistance is greater than 5 ohms, repair open in Pink/Yellow wire between terminal No. 85 at all door lock relay harness connector C255 splice S201 (located at left kick panel) and terminal No. 6 at left master door lock switch harness connector C510.
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Tuesday, February 8th, 2011 AT 5:08 PM
Tiny
MARK DAVIS
  • MEMBER
I did put one new actuator on and it works fine. Only thing I can think is that what ever takes the 12 vdc and makes it a momentary pulse for the locks, (timer relay?) Must have stuck on and burned them up! Does that make sense?
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Thursday, February 10th, 2011 AT 3:52 PM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • EXPERT
That is possible. It could also be due to the actuators are failing and when the control gets stuck, they failed together.
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Thursday, February 10th, 2011 AT 4:11 PM

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