Fuel pressure regulator?

Tiny
CRAIG JASTER
  • MEMBER
  • 46 POSTS
  • 1994 FORD RANGER
  • 200,000 MILES
Ok, so my truck has been running pretty rough here lately, I have replaced the plugs and wires, mass air flow sensor, Ignition coil, and ran sea foam through it. My friend came over last night and hooked his computer up to it and we got 512 (Ithink) which I believe is No Codes In Memory. We also ran a fuel pressure test. The static pressure has me kind of puzzled. As soon as you turn the key on, the pressure jumped up to 35 psi but within a second, it drops to 6 psi. I believe the specs call for 35-45 psi (key on engine off) The fuel pressure is also a few pounds low while the engine is running too. With the engine running I am getting like 24-26 psi. I think the specs call for 30-40 psi here. (Key on engine running) Today I pulled the Fuel pressure regulator off, it was holding pressure to the fuel rail. The diaphragm is not leaking but I don't know if there is anything else to check on it, it is holding vacuum, and has good vacuum to it. Any suggestions would be helpful.
Thanks in advance
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Friday, August 21st, 2020 AT 12:51 PM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,601 POSTS
Fuel pressure bleed down is caused by: leaking regulator (internal or external leak) injector(s) stuck open leaking return line. All three are important and need to be addressed. This guide will help

https://www.2carpros.com/articles/how-to-check-fuel-system-pressure-and-regulator

Please run down this guide and report back.
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Friday, August 21st, 2020 AT 12:51 PM (Merged)
Tiny
ASEMASTER6371
  • MECHANIC
  • 52,797 POSTS
You vacuum is fine, your regulator is fine. There is no vacuum issue. It is a pressure issue possibly from a weak new pump.
Roy
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Friday, August 21st, 2020 AT 12:51 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CRAIG JASTER
  • MEMBER
  • 46 POSTS
The fuel filter was recently replaced. I have also pulled the tank, flushed it and cleaned the sock.
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Friday, August 21st, 2020 AT 12:51 PM (Merged)
Tiny
HMAC300
  • MECHANIC
  • 48,601 POSTS
Engine runing fuel pressure is 28-45 sounds like your pressure is low.
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Friday, August 21st, 2020 AT 12:51 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CRAIG JASTER
  • MEMBER
  • 46 POSTS
Yea I googled the pressure specs last night and got a result of 35-45psi while running and 30-40psi static but that might be wronge im gonna do some more research
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Friday, August 21st, 2020 AT 12:51 PM (Merged)
Tiny
DOCDTC
  • MECHANIC
  • 53 POSTS
The fuel filter has no efficiency on inj. Bleed off. Cycle the key 8-10 times, waiting for the pressure to bleed off. DO NOT turn the engine over while cycling the pump. Then simply pull the spark plugs and look for one that is fuel saturated. That hole is your leaking injector. Disable the ign. System and spin the engine over, prior to re-installing the plugs. This will prevent bad things from happening when you restart it. Hope this helps, Doc
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Friday, August 21st, 2020 AT 12:51 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CRAIG JASTER
  • MEMBER
  • 46 POSTS
Ok will check that out tomorrow
about the low fuel pressure, and loss of power, will a leaking injector cause both symptoms together?
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Friday, August 21st, 2020 AT 12:51 PM (Merged)
Tiny
HD74SG
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
  • 1993 FORD RANGER
  • 180,000 MILES
Fuel pump runs continuously
Changed fuel filter and fuel pressure regulator
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Friday, August 21st, 2020 AT 12:51 PM (Merged)
Tiny
DOCDTC
  • MECHANIC
  • 53 POSTS
In a nutshell, yes. I could tell you how to confirm it with a scanner using mode 6 data. But I'm thinking you probably don't really have those kind of tools just lying around. I bet your mileage has dropped way off, and the exhaust is probably really warm, both at the tailpipe and at the cat. Converters. But I bet it starts great when cold but harder when its warm, am I getting close? Let me know, Doc
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Friday, August 21st, 2020 AT 12:51 PM (Merged)
Tiny
WRENCHTECH
  • MECHANIC
  • 20,757 POSTS
What do you mean, while the engine is running or after the engine is shut off?
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Friday, August 21st, 2020 AT 12:51 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CRAIG JASTER
  • MEMBER
  • 46 POSTS
Well Doc, you're real close, it always starts up great, but yes, it runs worse under higher ambient temperatures. After the engine warms up, it does get better. When the engine is cold, I have to pretty much floor it when pulling away from a light. It does better at higher rpms than if I would pull away from a stop normally. I have noticed some carbon buildup on the outside of the bed above the tail pipe. It actually doesn't have any cats on it. They were removed before I got it.
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Friday, August 21st, 2020 AT 12:51 PM (Merged)
Tiny
HD74SG
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
When I first turn the ignition switch on, fuel pump used to run 3 to 5 seconds then shut off till cranked, runs continuously now, act like maybe too much fuel or not enough when turning over but not starting.
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Friday, August 21st, 2020 AT 12:51 PM (Merged)
Tiny
DOCDTC
  • MECHANIC
  • 53 POSTS
Sounds like an open injector to me. If nthe O2 sensors still are reading O2 content, every time a cylinder misses, the sensor see alot of oxygen and tells the ECM that the motor is running lean, so it adds more fuel. Making the problem only get worse. Try the plug thing and let me know. Doc
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Friday, August 21st, 2020 AT 12:51 PM (Merged)
Tiny
WRENCHTECH
  • MECHANIC
  • 20,757 POSTS
It is supposed to only run 2 seconds if the engine isn't cranked but that is a safety feature only and has no effect on engine performance.
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Friday, August 21st, 2020 AT 12:51 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CRAIG JASTER
  • MEMBER
  • 46 POSTS
OK Doc, so I did the plug thing, cycled the key about 30 times then pulled all six plugs. None are wet although they are brand new, four out of six have a light white burn to them while the back plug on both sides look new besides a little black carbon on the couple threads that stick through the bottom of the heads. So unless I'm doing the test wrong, I dont have a leaky injector. What would be my next step?
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Friday, August 21st, 2020 AT 12:51 PM (Merged)
Tiny
HD74SG
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
Am thinking about changing throttle air bypass valve next, unable to scan for codes on this '93 Ranger. Changed fuel pressure regulator, the fuel pump came on then off when ignition turned to on, cranked up fine, revved up fine, I drove about 2 miles and check engine light came back on, ran poorly when accelerator pressed past half way down, came back home, turned off, turned key to on and fuel pump running continuously again?
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Friday, August 21st, 2020 AT 12:51 PM (Merged)
Tiny
PAULWAYNE
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1990 FORD RANGER
  • 6 CYL
  • 4WD
  • MANUAL
  • 98,324 MILES
How do you change fuel regulator in 1990 Ford ranger
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Friday, August 21st, 2020 AT 12:51 PM (Merged)
Tiny
WRENCHTECH
  • MECHANIC
  • 20,757 POSTS
What engine does it have? 2.9 or 4.0?
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Friday, August 21st, 2020 AT 12:51 PM (Merged)
Tiny
CRAIG JASTER
  • MEMBER
  • 46 POSTS
SO, just to be sure of myself, I ran the plug test a second time, this time leaving the key on a little bit longer each time I cycled it to make sure the injectors were getting fuel to them. I got the same results as the first time. I'm leaning pretty far towards the fuel pump being the problem. If I get low pressure to the rail while its running, and lose static pressure, and the fuel rail and injectors aren't showing any sign of leaking, while the fuel pressure regulator isn't showing signs of failure, that would leave the fuel pump being faulty, or ECM problem. I also unplugged the O2 sensors and MAF sensor and didnt get any change from them being out of the equation. Should I go buy a fuel pump?
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Friday, August 21st, 2020 AT 12:51 PM (Merged)

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