Hydrolocked engine

Tiny
AUTOBOY23
  • MEMBER
  • 1998 FORD EXPEDITION
  • V8
  • AUTOMATIC
Can u repair a hydrolocked 5.4L v8 engine? With just a lil mechanical know how
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Tuesday, February 8th, 2011 AT 4:18 PM

7 Replies

Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • EXPERT
Explain the situation, please.

The Medic
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Tuesday, February 8th, 2011 AT 6:30 PM
Tiny
AUTOBOY23
  • MEMBER
Well theres a car a person posted on craigslist and its just what I need but its got a blown head gasket and is hydrolocked according to the ad now I just wanted to know if someone like me with very little understanding of engines and how they work would be able to repair this engine by myself and if so what kind of manuals could you recommend for this procedure thank you
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Tuesday, February 8th, 2011 AT 6:45 PM
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • EXPERT
As far as the blown head gasket, investigate the cause----many times it was an OVERHEATING issue and dependent on the severity, the head(s) may be warped and valves/ valve components could be damaged.

As far as the Hydrolock, sounds like their cylinder(s) may have excessive water in them. If the cylinder is on the "Compression Stroke", both valves are closed and the piston is coming up to compress the FUEL MIX. You can compress gases----You Cannot compress WATER (which maybe leaked in, because of the COMPROMISED Head Gasket!)----Thus, Mr. Crank cannot rotate, or attempt to start!

Pulling the Spark plugs will OPEN the "Closed Up Cylinder", and allow the piston(s) to continue to rise up.

You might do that, and be assured the engine will rotate, before committing to maybe a thrown rod etc. Even a compression test may clue you in to where the problem is.

Yes, It may be salvageable---How BAD do you want it, how much can you justify spending?

I have bought Someone's DISASTER Vehicle in the past. Had good and bad luck with them, just gotta really investigate, before you jump on the bull!

Your Turn

The Medic
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Tuesday, February 8th, 2011 AT 7:03 PM
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • EXPERT
Hi guys. The head gasket is a real common problem on Ford truck engines and does indeed cause hydro-lock. If you pull the one or two spark plugs for the affected cylinders, then crank the engine to expel the coolant, the engine will run after reinstalling the plugs. The coolant enters the cylinders after the engine is stopped due to the built up pressure in the cooling system. It is common for them to run fine, then refuse to crank after stopping for lunch.

This is a very involved repair for a do-it-yourselfer. It's not that you can't do it, it's that professionals do a lot of stuff to prevent repeat failures and there are many things novices aren't aware of that can cause more trouble during and after the repair. I could probably perform heart surgery if I had a text book in front of me, but there are going to be things it doesn't mention that might make the outcome not so good.

Caradiodoc

(Hi CJ MEDEVAC. Happy Tuesday to you).
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Tuesday, February 8th, 2011 AT 8:52 PM
Tiny
CJ MEDEVAC
  • EXPERT
Hi caradiodoc,

Thanks for backing me up, you've seen me in action, I do much better at the Jeep CJs!

I sorta got a response, pretty quick the 1st time,

I like hearing, "The Rest Of The Story", I hope he pops back in!

The Medic
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Tuesday, February 8th, 2011 AT 10:20 PM
Tiny
AUTOBOY23
  • MEMBER
Thanks for the info but considering my dilemma and the guys asking 1000 bucks for the truck and thatll alot me around another 700 or so for parts and whatnot so if I intended to do this is there a book you would recommend and is there any tips you would give me thx for the help and your time
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Tuesday, February 8th, 2011 AT 10:42 PM
Tiny
CARADIODOC
  • EXPERT
Nothing is as good as the factory service manual. You can buy them through the dealer and there are always some on eBay. "Jeffandlorie" always have a real lot of books listed that they buy from dealership auctions. They are using a second name now. They are from somewhere around Tennessee or Kentucky. I've bought a lot of books from them.

Have an engine machine shop check the heads for cracks and flatness. Cast iron heads must have no more warpage than.005" across any part of the gasket surface. Surface prep is important too so the new gasket can bite in and seal. Scuff pads on a rotary air tool are usually recommend. Some people use spray or brush-on gasket sealers on both sides of the gasket. The new gasket will come with instructions that will specify if sealers should not be used.

Caradiodoc
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Tuesday, February 8th, 2011 AT 11:16 PM

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