I have a 98 Dodge Stratus with the 2.5L V6 and auto trans. It died while I was driving as if the fuel pump went out (still cranks over but no firing). When I checked and listened to hear if it came on when the key was turned, sure enough no pump. But, when I pulled the pump and then hooked it up to power directly it worked. On top of that, upon further analysis, I was not getting power to the injectors or spark plugs. I have checked all fuses many times over and even replaced the ecm and still nothing. I am completely stumped and everyone I have asked has no idea. Any thoughts on this would be appreciated.
You've added all kinds of new problems by replacing random parts but nothing that we can't overcome. The fuel pump had better not run with the ignition switch turned on because that would present a serious fire hazard in the event a fuel line was ruptured in a crash. The pump only runs for one second after turning on the ignition switch, then again during engine rotation, (cranking or running). Also, GM fuel pumps typically fail while you're driving and out on the highway. Chrysler pumps almost never fail while they're running. When they fail they intermittently fail to start up. Stalling problems are due to something else.
Had you checked for spark right away you would have seen that the fuel pump was not the only thing not working. You already did the next step which was to check for voltage to the ignition coil and injectors, however, that is the same voltage that runs the fuel pump. You have to check for that voltage while cranking the engine, not just with the ignition switch turned on. If you do not have voltage on the dark green / orange wire at the ignition coil or any injector while cranking the engine, the Engine Computer is not turning on the automatic shutdown (ASD) relay. It turns that on for that one second after turning on the ignition switch, then again when the engine is rotating. It knows that by the pulses from the crankshaft position sensor and the camshaft position sensor.
Most of the time the Engine Computer will set a diagnostic fault code to tell you which sensor is not sending a signal, but you lost that information when you unplugged it. Often the code will not set just by cranking the engine. You can try checking for stored codes but you will most likely need a scanner to view live data to see which signal is not there.
You are also going to have a starting problem once the original cause of the stalling is fixed. Idle speed will be too low and you'll have to hold the gas pedal down about 1/4" to get it to start and stay running. That's an easy fix that we will discuss once the engine is running.