Car shuts down while driving down the road

Tiny
DAVIDMORGAN
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Also I had even more issues with it dying when it was REALLY cold outside. During about a week of snow I could get the car to run sitting but when I moved it from the driveway it died. Then it died again when I tried to move it in front of the neighbors house. Couldnt keep it running. Doesnt have that issue anymore but I just remembered that happening maybe a clue toward the issue being heat related? Theres so many possibilities im stuck with hardly any money and not sure what to do next.
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Saturday, October 10th, 2020 AT 11:26 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • MECHANIC
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The crank sensor episode could be due to a loose connection somewhere and your meddling with it seems to have solved the problem

I would sugggest checking the idling sysytem. Have the throttle body and IAC cleaned and retest. If the idling speed is erratic, it can casue the symptoms described.
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Saturday, October 10th, 2020 AT 11:26 AM (Merged)
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
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So the check engine light doesn't come on but have you still checked to make sure there aren't any new codes?When. It dies and wont start the first thing I would check for is spark.
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Saturday, October 10th, 2020 AT 11:26 AM (Merged)
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
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If its dieing while your driving down the road then it wouldn't be the iac but if would die at stop then it could be. Also if you give it has and it still doesn't start and atleast run with you giving it gas it'd not a iac.
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Saturday, October 10th, 2020 AT 11:26 AM (Merged)
Tiny
DAVIDMORGAN
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IAC has been cleaned and sprayed throttle body out best I could. It improved throttle response but nothing major. I did that a long while back.

And no there are no new codes, It just wont pop one for this issue I really dont understand why.
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Saturday, October 10th, 2020 AT 11:26 AM (Merged)
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
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When. It dies and wont start the first thing I would check for is spark.
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Saturday, October 10th, 2020 AT 11:26 AM (Merged)
Tiny
GKULAS
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  • 1 POST
  • 1998 CHEVROLET CAVALIER
  • 4 CYL
  • FWD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 125,000 MILES
My 1998 Chevy Cavalier stopped running this morning.

The past couple of days the battery light was on. This morning I let the car idle to warm-up, and it quit running.

Is it possibly the alternator or battery?
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Saturday, October 10th, 2020 AT 11:26 AM (Merged)
Tiny
JDL
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Welcome to the forum, I'd have to make sure the battery has a full charge and the connections are good. I'd also check the charging system. How is the fuel pressure?
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Saturday, October 10th, 2020 AT 11:26 AM (Merged)
Tiny
DAVIDMORGAN
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And as I said I really havent had much dead time to test its never at an opportune time and now noone wants to drive it. I dont think we had spark when trying to start it but really dont know. Im doing everything I can to save money to get plates put back on it and drive it to continue testing but I was hoping someone may know the likely issue or what to check first
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Saturday, October 10th, 2020 AT 11:26 AM (Merged)
Tiny
BRENBEAU
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This happened to me check the connection to the battery and if its good then it is definitly the altonator the battery light usually means battery charging system isnt working so definitly the altonator
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Saturday, October 10th, 2020 AT 11:26 AM (Merged)
Tiny
DAVIDMORGAN
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If I dont have spark and the coils wires and plugs are all new and the ignition control module is the only thing from a junk yard is that the only possibility? Obviously could be a faulty part but assuming everything works is this the only possibility?
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Saturday, October 10th, 2020 AT 11:26 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KHLOW2008
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Yes, it is possibile you have a bad rreplacement part. Prior to replacing the ICM, was the problem exactly similar or were there any difference?
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Saturday, October 10th, 2020 AT 11:26 AM (Merged)
Tiny
DAVIDMORGAN
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It seemed like it was better for awhile then it happened again. But at the same time the car has done that before without replacing parts. It will randomly work for a few days without issue or even weeks. Then come back again. It did do that when I replaced the icm once and I thought I had fixed it. Then the second time it seemed like maybe it did for a day or two but then same thing. Its so intermittent that I really cant tell. I have another junkyard ICM that I havent used yet but I also have been running the car randomly in my driveway to keep the battery good (already killed one battery and now have a new one) and not had any issues with it dying so I wouldnt know by replacing it right away, then again if it happens again I wouldnt know if its because yet another faulty junkyard part. A new one is $250+ and I dont know of any reliable online parts stores that are safe, it seems all the ones on ebay are un-reliable parts. Its only $10 at the junkyard.

So I guess now my question is. If there is no spark (once I have this established as I believe this to be the problem if not fuel pressure that I have no way to test especially when randomly only dead for 10 minutes) is this the only possibility? Is there any other thing that could cause this issue? Could the computer cut the engine off for any reason without popping a code? Or could the computer (pcm whatever its called) overheat? I must establish im no master mechanic by any means im self-haynes/chilton taught with minor help here and there. I would just like to know all my possibilities.

If its no spark is the ignition control module only possibility?
If its bad fuel pressure is fuel pump able to die only when hot and then only work again 10 minutes later? Or can the pressure regulator have that issue?
Im down to these are the only 2 possibilities and im pretty sure its spark but wont know more till later but the issue isnt just gone so id like to stop poking in the dark and know the only possibilities
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Saturday, October 10th, 2020 AT 11:26 AM (Merged)
Tiny
DAVIDMORGAN
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Also another question regarding fuel pump, how loud is too loud for the fuel pump to be? It seems abnormally loud, especially after I fixed the o-ring on the top of the tank, it seemed quieter before I fixed it but it also obviously didnt have proper pressure. I fixed the leak/pressure and now its really loud is it possible the pumps burnt up? Can the pump cause these issues? Im pretty sure I heard it running when the car was dead once but im not 100% on that. I know I can still hear the fuel pump when behind the car while the cars running and its fairly loud. Is this an indication its bad or is that a known cavalier noisy fuel pump?
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Saturday, October 10th, 2020 AT 11:26 AM (Merged)
Tiny
KHLOW2008
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Fuel pump would not operate with too much noise. You would only hear a slight vrrrr and only if you pay attention or is close by. Excessively loud noise can mean the pump was not installed correctly.

If you do not have sparks, it could be an ignition switch fault, EFI relays or ICM which do not throw codes. The crank sensor is also a cause for no sparks but it would usually throw a code.
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Saturday, October 10th, 2020 AT 11:26 AM (Merged)
Tiny
SATURNTECH9
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The crank shaft sensor is easy to check with a multimer. First thing you need to do is see what you don't have when it doesn't start spark proper fuel pressure lack of injector pluse?Thats where you need to start to see which direction your going to start looking and testing. Otherwise its a wild goose chase and a guessing game.
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Saturday, October 10th, 2020 AT 11:26 AM (Merged)
Tiny
RENEGADE65
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  • 29 POSTS
CMP or CKP
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Saturday, October 10th, 2020 AT 11:26 AM (Merged)
Tiny
HURL75
  • MEMBER
  • 1 POST
  • 1998 CHEVROLET CAVALIER
Engine Mechanical problem
1998 Chevy Cavalier 4 cyl Front Wheel Drive Manual n/a miles

I did a enigne swap from a 99 grand am 2.4l. I transfered the spark plugs, exhaust manifold and the intake, I have switched enigne brain, I have switched boots and ho cover with a new computer. Car starts but will not stay running. I have checked fuel pump works, fuel is in fuel rail. Plugs have spark. How can you check if injectors are working. Could this have anyhting to do with security system on the car. Any suggestion would be helpful
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Saturday, October 10th, 2020 AT 11:29 AM (Merged)
Tiny
WRENCHTECH
  • MECHANIC
  • 20,757 POSTS
I suspect your security system is locking you out and the security light is flashing when this happens

I am giving you the relearn procedure to reset the system.

PASSLOCK REPROGRAMMING AUTO LEARN

IMPORTANT: Due to component variability, the vehicle theft deterrent (VTD) system must have the learn procedure performed regardless, if the vehicle starts on the first ignition cycle after a VTD repair.

You must perform a theft relearn procedure if any of the following components have been replaced:
"Â Passlock Sensor
"Â Instrument Panel Cluster (IPC)
"Â Powertrain control module (PCM) The above modules, with the exception for the Passlock Sensor must also be programmed with each module's own vehicle configuration.
AUTO LEARN
Time required, approximately 10 minutes:
1. Insure that the battery is fully charged.
2. Use the scan tool in order to clear the DTCs.
3. Turn the ignition switch from the OFF position to the CRANK position attempting to start the vehicle. The vehicle will start and then stall.
4. Leave the ignition switch in the ON position while observing the security indicator.
5. When the security indicator turns off, which can take up to 10 minutes, turn the ignition switch off. Wait 10 seconds.
6. The BCM and the PCM will learn the new code on the next start attempt.
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Saturday, October 10th, 2020 AT 11:29 AM (Merged)
Tiny
SNOWMAN123
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  • 1 POST
  • 1998 CHEVROLET CAVALIER
  • 4 CYL
  • 2WD
  • AUTOMATIC
  • 100,000 MILES
Stalls when braking hard, starts right away
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Saturday, October 10th, 2020 AT 11:30 AM (Merged)

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