Water got into intake car died

Tiny
ACURACL2324
  • 1998 ACURA CL
  • 80,000 MILES

I drove through water and got it into my intake and my car died. Got it started and it ran like nothing happens. Then about a week later, I started making this ticking noise. And it kept getting louder then it just died. Wouldn't start for about 10 minutes. Got it started but it wouldn't keep an idle. Kept dying unless I help rpm's up. So I drove it home. Now when I go to turn key to start it, its just a thunk noise. Whats wrong?

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Wednesday, June 20th, 2012 AT 6:01 AM

14 Replies

Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MEMBER

The engine could be hydrolocking-check all the cylinders for coolant

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Wednesday, June 20th, 2012 AT 6:06 AM
Tiny
ACURACL2324
  • MEMBER

Im not a motor guy. How do I do that without pulling off the head?

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Wednesday, June 20th, 2012 AT 6:08 AM
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MEMBER

Remove the all the sparkplugs and look for water/coolant in the cylinders

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Wednesday, June 20th, 2012 AT 6:13 AM
Tiny
ACURACL2324
  • MEMBER

Oh alright sounds easy enough. Thanks. Ill let you know tomorrrow how it went. If all goes well, get new plugs and should it run like it did before all the trouble?

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Wednesday, June 20th, 2012 AT 6:16 AM
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MEMBER

Dunno yet till you check it-could be something else-let me know

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Wednesday, June 20th, 2012 AT 6:43 AM
Tiny
ACURACL2324
  • MEMBER

Spark plugs were completely dry. And I wasnt able to even see into the cylinder to see if theres anything.

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Wednesday, June 20th, 2012 AT 5:58 PM
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MEMBER

See if you can turn the crankshaft pulley 2 revolution

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Wednesday, June 20th, 2012 AT 11:05 PM
Tiny
ACURACL2324
  • MEMBER

Well we just decided we are gonna put a new motor in the car. What is the easiest way to swap it? Pull it out from above? Or go from underneath? Trying to avoid pulling the tranny. We dont wanna have to deal with shift linkage problems. Everyone tells me that is there biggest problem.

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Monday, July 9th, 2012 AT 6:19 AM
Tiny
RASMATAZ
  • MEMBER

Never done it with an Acura-My way is pull the engine from above

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Monday, July 9th, 2012 AT 11:33 AM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • EXPERT
  • 42,102 POSTS

Which engine do you have?

I don't see any problem with the shift linkages as they are fit and clipped on.

I would normally drop the whole engine and transmission assy. Taking out trans does not required enginto ne removed but taking the engine out without removing the transmission would be a biger headache and you would most probably damage the transmission shift cable if the transmission is not supported well.

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Monday, July 9th, 2012 AT 2:16 PM
Tiny
ACURACL2324
  • MEMBER

Its a locked up h22a thats in it right now. And was swapped before. But im putting a new h22a1 into the car.

But your saying its easiest to drop the tranny out with the engine from underneath at the same time?

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Monday, July 9th, 2012 AT 4:36 PM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • EXPERT
  • 42,102 POSTS

Yes.

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Monday, July 9th, 2012 AT 6:42 PM
Tiny
ACURACL2324
  • MEMBER

Okay. What all needs to be taken out to go from underneath?

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Monday, July 9th, 2012 AT 10:10 PM
Tiny
KHLOW2008
  • EXPERT
  • 42,102 POSTS

Removal

1. Remove hood support struts. Hold hood in vertical position. Disconnect battery negative cable. Remove strut brace from engine compartment. Remove battery, battery tray and engine ground cable.

2. Remove throttle and cruise control cable, then slip cable end out of throttle linkage. DO NOT bend cables. Remove intake air duct/air cleaner assembly. Remove Intake Air Resonator (IAR) control solenoid harness connector. Remove vacuum hoses and remove IAR control solenoid.

3. Remove battery cables from underhood fuse/relay block and underhood ABS fuse/relay block. Disconnect engine wire harness connectors on right side of engine compartment. Remove EVAP control canister hose, brake booster vacuum hose and vacuum hoses to firewall.

4. Release fuel pressure. Remove fuel feed hose and fuel return hose. Disconnect engine wiring and fuel injector harness connectors on left side of engine compartment. Remove harness clamps.

5. Remove power steering pump adjusting and mounting bolts. Remove power steering pump belt and pump. Do not disconnect power steering pump hoses.

6. Remove generator. Remove shift (A/T) or select (M/T) transmission cable. Remove transmission ground cable and hose clamp.

7. Remove radiator cap. Raise and support vehicle on hoist. Remove
front wheels and splash shield. Drain engine and transmission oil. Reinstall engine and transmission drain plugs with NEW washers. Drain cooling system.

8. Remove engine crossmember. Disconnect oxygen sensor and remove exhaust pipe "A". Remove damper fork and disconnect suspension lower arm ball joints. Remove axle shafts. Lower hoist. Remove heater, upper and lower radiator hoses. Remove transmission fluid cooler hoses. Remove radiator assembly.

9. Remove distributor and Idle Air Control (IAC) valve. Remove
A/C compressor with refrigerant lines attached, and lay aside. Attach chain hoist to engine. Raise hoist to take all slack from chain. Remove left and right front engine mounts and brackets. Remove rear and side engine mount bracket. Remove transmission mount.

10. Ensure engine is free of all hoses and electrical wiring. Slowly
raise or lower engine, once again checking that all hoses and electrical wiring has been disconnected. Raise/lower engine and remove from vehicle.

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Tuesday, July 10th, 2012 AT 2:18 PM

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