IGNITION CONTROL SYSTEM TESTS
1. Check Ignition System For Proper Spark - Remove injector sub-harness and spark plug wire cap from each spark plug. Install a known-good spark plug to spark plug wire and position spark plug so it is grounded to engine. Crank engine. If a spark does not occur at each spark plug, reconnect injector sub-harness and spark plug wires and go to next step. If a spark does occur at each spark plug, see FUEL PUMP CIRCUIT TESTS.
2. Check Voltage At Ignition Coil Positive Terminal - Turn ignition on. Ensure there is at least 10 volts between ignition coil 3-pin harness connector terminal No. 2 and ground. If voltage is as specified, go to next step. If voltage is not as specified, repair harness or connectors as necessary.
3. Check Ignition Coil - Remove ignition coil connector and remove ignition coil. Check resistance of ignition coil primary and secondary windings. If resistance is as specified, go to next step. If resistance is not as specified, replace ignition coil.
4. Check Ignitor Output Signal - Connect all connectors. Check voltage between ignitor output harness connector terminal No. 1 and ground, and terminal No. 2 and ground, while cranking engine. Voltage reading should be at least.1 volt. If voltage reading is as specified, go to next step. If voltage reading is not as specified, replace ignitor.
5. Check Harness Between ECM & Ignitor - Turn ignition off. Disconnect ECM and ignitor harness connectors. Ensure there is zero ohms between ECM harness connector terminal No. 9 and ignitor terminal No. 2, ECM harness connector terminal No. 10 and ignitor terminal No. 1, ECM harness connector terminal No. 15 and ignitor terminal No. 3 and ground. Ensure there is no continuity between ignitor terminal No. 1 and ground, and between ignitor terminal No. 2 and ground. If resistance is as specified, inspect ECM connector and repair as necessary. If ECM connector is okay, replace ECM. If resistance is
not as specified, repair harness or connectors as necessary.
December, 15, 2010 AT 3:49 AM
Did you do a compression test, does it have spark, does it start on starting fluid
December, 29, 2010 AT 6:51 AM
My uncle's mechanic is a professional but not with foreign cars. He has been kind enough to look at mine but rarely has more than an hour of time at a time. I pray youre still feeling as kind and are willing to share any other brilliant advice. He followed your aforementioned directions to a tee, still nothing. The dash is off and they are about to give up on it/me. If you can think of anything else we can do, any other suggestions at all, I beg you please please share. Yes compression test, I dont know the results but suspect it was correct. No spark. No start on starting fluid. I am told someone checked it with a special device ? That says the problem lies within the keyless entry/security system. I think it has been disconnected. Please keep in mind all this info im sharing with you is third hand and I am not at all familiar with mechanic lingo. His next move is a new ignition.I see there is info about donating on this site, I will educate myself further and plan to give accordingly plus some as soon as I can. Hope your holiday was bright. Have a blessed day kind sir, youve helped immensely. Xo
December, 30, 2010 AT 1:23 PM
I am not sure about the present situation so you wuld have to get the following answer for me.
1. Are the dash indicator lights showing when igntiion is turned on?
2. Do they stay on (except for oil pressure, it might turn off if you crank for extended periods) when the strater is being cranked?
3. Have you confirmed that ignition sparks are missing?
4. Is there battery voltage at ignition coil when ignition is turned on?
5. Is there battery voltage at ignition coil when cranking engine?
6. Is keyless entry system factory or after market?
7. Is the fuel pump working? Have you checked the fuel pressure?
Happy New Year.
December, 31, 2010 AT 8:38 AM
If I didnt mention before, you're an angel.
1. No "check engine" light when ignition is on. Im pretty sure the dash doesnt show any indicator lights whatsoever.
3. Yes sparks ARE missing.
5. Yes there is voltage at the coil when cranking. There is voltage on all 3 wires. Even on the ground.
6. He thinks the keyless entry is after market. The keyless entry has been totally removed.
**I fear I may have confused his answers to #'s 4 5 & 7. But if I recall correctly. Yes 12 volts at ignition coil when ignition is on.
And yes the fuel pump is working. Im certain he said that checking 1 or the other of these requires hotwiring.
7. He feels strongly that the fuel pump will work properly when the unknown problem is addressed. I cant remember what he said about the pressue.
Thank you again and again for your help sir. You are a ray of sunshine after weeks of gloomy gray skies. I look forward to a reply and appreciate any info you care to share. Pardon my late nights rants as I keep odd hours with my work.
Happy New Year. God Bless
December, 31, 2010 AT 11:38 AM
Thank you for the compliments. We are here to help and would give it our best shot. Please remember that we are not with the vehicle and depend on you to provide as much information as possible and if any of the information is not accurate, we cn be missing out important factors which might lead us nowhere.
After market keyless system should have nothing to do with the non starting.
If the dash is not showing any indicator lights when ignition switch is turned on, it could mean a power supply disruption and could also be due to a faultry ignition switch.
If the CEL is not showing at initial ignition ON, it could mean a faulty with the ECM or its wiring.
Did you try to retrieve for trouble codes with scan tools?
For no spark conditions, the crankshaft position sensor could be the cause. Here are diagnostics for the CKP.
DTC P0335 (CRANK) - CRANKSHAFT POSITION (CKP) SENSOR CIRCUIT
1. Turn ignition off. Disconnect CKP sensor harness connector. Check resistance between CKP sensor harness connector terminal No. 1 and chassis ground. If resistance is 100 k/ohms or greater, check and repair open in harness between ECM and CKP sensor harness connector. Check for poor contact in ECM connector, coupling connector in harness between CKP and ECM. If resistance is less than 100 k/ohms, go to next step.
NOTE: Harness between both connectors is shielded. Repair short circuit in harness together with shield.
2. If resistance is 10 ohms or less, check for short in harness between CKP sensor and ECM harness connector. If resistance is greater than 10 ohms, but less than 100 k/ohms, go to next step.
3. Check resistance between CKP sensor harness connector terminal No. 2 and chassis ground. If resistance is 5 ohms or less, go to next step. If resistance is greater than 5 ohms, check for open in harness between CKP sensor and ECM connector. Check for poor terminal connection in coupling.
4. Check if installation bolts of CKP sensor are loose, tighten securely. If bolts were not loose, remove CKP sensor and check resistance between CKP sensor terminals. If resistance is 1-4 k/ohms, repair poor contact in CKP sensor harness connector. If resistance is less than 1 k/ohm or greater than 4 k/ohm, replace CKP sensor.
You are not the only person with odd woking hours, lol.
Happy New Year.
January, 2, 2011 AT 10:13 PM
Hello kind Sir,
I have some more information to share. Seems dash indicator lights are showing when ignition is on. All except the "check engine" one. He tried 2 different scans tools (cheap & then fancy) but neither pick up, read or even come on. Nada nothing. Also, there is no "flicker" when he tests the connector harness while its unplugged. All 3 have voltage when its plugged in.
As im learning from you and recalling the extreme caution the manual warned about while working on the computer of the car, im flipping out a lil bit because I cant swear wether or not the ignition was turned to the on or off postion when the ECM was being changed. Both it and the ignition module were being changed at the same time by two people, it was 8 degrees cold and I was jumping in and out of my car turning it over, looking for lights, relaying info etc. Good grief. 5 weeks and several hundred $$'s later. Do you think the aforementioned points directly to the $220 ECM? If so is there an alternate way to double check it? And if not, have you anymore advice? A million thanks Sir. Waiting nervously for your generous reply.
January, 2, 2011 AT 11:55 PM
Did you check the ignitor it is located right behind the intake on the firewall, its what controls the firing for the coil. I ran into a couple of these in the past.
January, 3, 2011 AT 2:36 AM
If the ignitor is directly in the middle straight ahead on the frame of the car, thats what I meant when I said ignition module. Thank you for your interest & help.
January, 3, 2011 AT 2:45 PM
Have the MIL ( Check engine lamp) circuit checked and ensure it is not due to a bad bulb in dash.
If the scan tool is not communicating with the ECM and the MIL is not indicating at initial ignition on, it could be due to the ECM or its wiring, especially ground circuits.
It is always recommended to disconnect battery when removing/installing electrical components to prevent damge due to current surge.
If the ECM is a reman unit, I would not rule out the posibility of it being faulty as well.