DIFFICULT STARTING 96 2.0

1996 Mazda 626

Tiny

ToHearYou

January, 9, 2011 AT 2:20 AM

Do it yourselfer. Full rebuild 96 626 2.0. Also changed temperature sensor at rear of head which removed idle roughness. Engine runs smooth as silk. 30 miles on engine. When in 20 degree weather the system acts as if no fuel is being sent to injectors. Checked pressure at fuel filter, ok. 3 to 4 hours of cool down is when this happens. It takes 20 to 30 bumps to start the engine. Once it starts never fails to start again. However smooth idles about 6 to 700 rpm. Almost to low. After no hesitation, no fuel shortage at sustained high rate of speed with passing acceleration. Baffled?

FOUND 51583 RELATED QUESTIONS

22 Answers

Tiny

KHLow2008

January, 9, 2011 AT 9:54 AM

Have you tried to retrieve for trouble codes?
Did you check the injectors for pulsing when it could not be started? Ever tried to test if starting fluid works?

Symptoms indicates a possible fault with the ECM or its grounding cirtuit.

Tiny

ToHearYou

January, 9, 2011 AT 12:47 PM

Took it to one of the box stores to retrieve codes. My 96 honda had the plug under the ash tray. On this car we could not find the hookup in the cabin, but I did find the diagnostics port under the hood on the left fender well. Box store had no jack for it. Checking this on monday. I did not check the injectors for pulsing. I thought about the injectors but questioned woul all 4 malfunction? I will try the starting fluid today and see what happens.

Tiny

KHLow2008

January, 9, 2011 AT 8:59 PM

When the ECM fails, all 4 injectors would not work.

The DLC is located underdash next to center console, above right foot of driver and if it is not found, it is a pre-ODB-II system, meaning rhe vehcile could be earlier than 1996 model. Code retrieval can be done manually with the aid of an analog voltmeter, LED lamp or the MIL.

CHECK ENGINE Light/Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL)

Turn ignition on. Connect a jumper wire between Self-Test Input (STI) pigtail and signal return (SIG RTN) terminal of Data Link Connector (DLC). See Fig. 2 -3. Go to KOEO SELF-TEST.

KOEO SELF-TEST
Ensure engine is warmed to normal operating temperature. If engine does not start (or stalls after starting), continue KOEO SELF-TEST.
DO NOT depress throttle. Turn ignition off. Ensure test equipment is properly attached. Turn ignition on (engine off). Record all KOEO and Continuous Memory Codes.

If a Code 111 (pass code) is not retrieved, service KOEO codes. See
DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODE REFERENCE. If PCM will not output codes, go to TEST QA. If diagnostic trouble codes are retrieved: If MIL/CHECK ENGINE light is on, service diagnostic trouble codes in order retrieved. See the DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODE REFERENCE table.

If vehicle has a no-start condition, go to TEST AA.

If vehicle displays a Code 111 (pass code) and does not have any symptoms described in previous steps, go to KOER SELF-TEST.

Tiny

KHLow2008

January, 9, 2011 AT 9:00 PM

Sorry for missing out on the diagrams.

Tiny

ToHearYou

January, 10, 2011 AT 12:25 AM

Thank you for a starting point. Monday & Tuesday I will begin these tests. Charged the battery on Sunday. I will send my result.

Tiny

ToHearYou

January, 10, 2011 AT 8:21 PM

Monday 10th bumbed the engine 38 times before the car primed and started. Computer codes were (sensor 1) (p o 117). Researching the codes after typing this into the forum.

Tiny

ToHearYou

January, 10, 2011 AT 8:56 PM

P o 117 is a intermitting sensor for the temperature guage. This is a seperate problem. Thinking the system is some how loosing prime, but when I remove the hose from the filter the fuel comes up strong, which makes me wonder about the regulator.

Tiny

KHLow2008

January, 11, 2011 AT 2:26 PM

A bad ECT can cause a non starting condition as the ECM could be sending the wrong signal to the injectors and cause the engine to flood.

Did you test if it is sparks or fuel that is not getting to the cylinders or too much fuel is flooding the cylinders?

Tiny

ToHearYou

January, 11, 2011 AT 11:00 PM

I will check both your suggestions. It snowed and iced yesterday and today. I have to work outside in a parking lot. Thursday or Friday before I can get back to it. I will first spray some starting fluid at the air intake and see if any ignition spark shows.

Tiny

ToHearYou

January, 12, 2011 AT 5:24 PM

As stated earlier no code indicators. Bumped the car 1/2 bumped the car to confirm the same pattern. It was the same. Opened the air filter box sprayed starting fulid into the throat and hit the ignition the car started. Primed up and ran. However it is ideling down to 600-700 rpm while cold. Similar to the the way when before changing the temperature sensor?

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