1996 Taurus Won't Start!

Tiny
PINKFLOYDEFFECT
  • MEMBER
  • 1996 FORD TAURUS
  • 6 CYL
  • AUTOMATIC
We stopped the engine to go in the house came back out and it will not start out of nowhere. It's getting fuel pressure to the rail because the bleeder spits fuel when depressed, the plugs are getting spark, we used a mini tester to connect to the cars computer for any error codes it is getting none. It turns over fine so it probably is not running out of time, the car is in good shape and maintained. It does sound like it wants to turn over for a split second but very quickly; I just can't figure this out. Tried removing the air box cover and moving the shifter back and forth (auto) it can't be an electrical problem. Like I said the rail is getting fuel and the plugs are wet. Any suggestions?
Friday, May 20th, 2011 AT 10:55 PM

7 Replies

Tiny
WRENCHTECH
  • MECHANIC
  • 20,761 POSTS
All "crank, no start" conditions are approached in the same way. Every engine requires certain functions to be able to run. Some of these functions rely on specific components to work and some components are part of more than one function so it is important to see the whole picture to be able to conclude anything about what may have failed. Also, these functions can ONLY be tested during the failure. Any other time and they will simply test good because the problem isn't present at the moment.
If you approach this in any other way, you are merely guessing and that only serves to replace unnecessary parts and wastes money.

Every engine requires spark, fuel and compression to run. That's what we have to look for.

These are the basics that need to be tested and will give us the info required to isolate a cause.

1) Test for spark at the plug end of the wire using a spark tester. If none found, check for power supply on the + terminal of the coil with the key on.

2) Test for injector pulse using a small bulb called a noid light. If none found, check for power supply at one side of the injector with the key on.

3) Use a fuel pressure gauge to test for correct fuel pressure, also noticing if the pressure holds when key is shut off. Just seeing pressure at the shraeder valve is not sufficient

4) If all of these things check good, then you would need to do a complete compression test.

Once you have determined which of these functions has dropped out,
you will know which system is having the problem.
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Friday, May 20th, 2011 AT 11:07 PM
Tiny
PINKFLOYDEFFECT
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
But it has spark, the plug wires arc over to the plug tips holding the boot next to it, and with the plug out it sparks against the block.

I will have to get the correct adapter to test the fuel pressure off the rail, but there was a LOT of pressure coming out according to my grandfather and its making it into the cylinders becuase the plugs are wet.

Most of this should give us an error code in the computer teststing unit and the computer is clear of errors.

This can be approached the correct way right now becuase it still will not start.
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Friday, May 20th, 2011 AT 11:18 PM
Tiny
WRENCHTECH
  • MECHANIC
  • 20,761 POSTS
If what you say is correct and you have both spark and wet plugs, then you need to take a compression test but I'm having my doubts if that is really the case.
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Friday, May 20th, 2011 AT 11:28 PM
Tiny
PINKFLOYDEFFECT
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
Will run a test in the morning, I am posting this for my grandfather he has been an auto mechanic for over 50 years but he is getting old and this is really stumping him.
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Saturday, May 21st, 2011 AT 12:19 AM
Tiny
WRENCHTECH
  • MECHANIC
  • 20,761 POSTS
It seems that he's trying to use "old school" methods and that simply won't work on these cars. Things like fuel pressure have to be specific and no room for error. If his previous tests were correct, you will find a compression problem. If no compression problem found, start over and follow my instructions precisely.
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Saturday, May 21st, 2011 AT 12:24 AM
Tiny
PINKFLOYDEFFECT
  • MEMBER
  • 4 POSTS
It sat for about a week and he tried starting it, and it started. Hasn't done it again since, so we sold the car. Could have been the REAR plugs were not getting spark since they are on a separate coil because we never checked the rears.
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Saturday, June 25th, 2011 AT 8:18 PM
Tiny
WRENCHTECH
  • MECHANIC
  • 20,761 POSTS
No, they are not on a separate coil
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Saturday, June 25th, 2011 AT 8:45 PM

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