I'm in a real squeeze here

Tiny
ANONYMOUS
  • MEMBER
  • 1996 FORD ASPIRE
  • 130,000 MILES
I'm in a real squeeze here. I start college here in July, and I've been having problems with my car. I know it's something to do with the Clutch, I just don't know what it is. The car dives, but only with my foot all the way into the Clutch peddle, and my other foot barely on the gas. I originally thought it was the clutch cable after hearing a loud pop that kinda sounded like it was grinding at the same time. So I went out and bought a new one. Now I find out the the CPPs (Clutch Peddle Position Switch) isn't work either. Every time I go to move the car, I have to take my foot off the clutch peddle and put it into gear before I tap the gas peddle and slam my foot into the clutch. That's the only way it shifts.
Please, any help would be very appreciated.
Wednesday, April 3rd, 2013 AT 7:09 PM

3 Replies

Tiny
FREEMBA
  • EXPERT
Sound like your clutch is gone out. You'll need to have a transmission shop to look at it.
They'll probably change the clutch, pressure plate and clutch release bearing.
I you decide to do it yourself, let me know and I'll send you more info.
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Wednesday, April 3rd, 2013 AT 7:22 PM
Tiny
ANTHONYDOWNEY
  • MEMBER
Yeah, a shop is a bit to pricey. If you could send me some info I'd be happy
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Wednesday, April 3rd, 2013 AT 7:36 PM
Tiny
FREEMBA
  • EXPERT
This is a long process. Read it first and then decide if you want to tackle it (along with a couple of friends).

Manual Transaxle Assembly
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Disengage the two back-up light switch wiring connectors.
3. Disengage the Park/Neutral Position (PNP) switch wiring connector.
4. Remove the clutch cable adjusting nut and disengage the cable from the release lever. Pull the clutch release cable through the cable bracket.
5. Remove the engine compartment wiring harness ground strap from the transaxle.
6. Remove the starter motor.
7. Loosen the speedometer cable retainer and disconnect the speedometer cable.
8. Remove the two bolts from the top of the clutch housing.
9. Install a three bar engine support tool D88L-6000-A, or equivalent. Properly secure the engine to the engine support tool.
10. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
11. Disengage the halfshafts from the differential side gears.
12. Install differential side gear plug tool T87C-7025-C or equivalent, to prevent the side gears from moving.
13. Remove the nut and bolt attaching the shift rod to the input shaft.
14. Remove the gearshift stabilizer bar nut, lockwasher and flat washer, then remove the bar from the control rod-to-support bar stud.
15. Loosen the three transaxle-to-engine retaining bolts from the transaxle case rear bracket and remove the bracket.
16. Loosen the three transaxle-to-engine retaining bolts from the transaxle case front bracket and remove the bracket.
17. Loosen the two rear and front transaxle support insulator nuts from the rear engine support.
18. Loosen the four rear engine support rebound insulator bolts and remove the rear engine support.
19. Position a suitable transmission jack under the transaxle and secure it with a safety chain or strap.
20. Loosen the four flywheel reinforcing plate bolts.
21. Loosen the two remaining transaxle-to-engine block retaining bolts.
22. Carefully separate the transaxle from the engine and lower the transaxle from the vehicle.
To install:
23. Raise the transaxle into position and seat it against the rear of the engine.
24. Install the four flywheel reinforcing plate bolts and tighten to 62-86 inch lbs. (7-10 Nm).
25. Install four lower transaxle retaining bolts and tighten to 47-66 ft. Lbs. (64-89 Nm).
26. Remove the transmission jack.
27. Position the rear engine support. Install the two rear transaxle support insulator nuts and tighten them to 21-34 ft. Lbs. (28-46 Nm).
28. Install the two front transaxle support insulator nuts and tighten to 32-38 ft. Lbs. (43-52 Nm).
29. Install the four rear engine support rebound insulator bolts and tighten to 47-66 ft. Lbs. (64-89 Nm.).
30. Install the transaxle case-to-cylinder block front and rear brackets and the three bolts on each. Tighten the bolts to 27-38 ft. Lbs. (37-52 Nm).
31. Install the washer and the gearshift stabilizer bar on the control rod-to-support bar stud.
32. Install the washer, lockwasher and gearshift stabilizer bar nut. Tighten the nut to 28-38 ft. (38-52 Nm).
33. Position the gearshift rod and clevis on the main shift control shaft and install the selector shift rod adjustment sleeve. Tighten the nut to 12-17 ft. Lbs. (16-23 Nm).
34. Route the PNP switch wiring over the rear engine support.
35. Install the halfshaft and CV-joint assemblies.
36. Check and fill the transaxle, if needed.
37. Lower the vehicle and remove the engine support bar.
38. Install the two retaining bolts at the top of the clutch housing. The top bolt is installed through the heater pipe bracket. Tighten the bolts to 47-66 ft. Lbs. (64-89 Nm).
39. Connect the ground strap to the transaxle case.
40. Attach the speedometer cable to the sleeve and hand-tighten.
41. Install the starter motor.
42. Engage the PNP and back-up light switch wiring connectors.
43. Connect the clutch cable to the release lever and adjust the clutch pedal free-play.
44. Connect the negative battery cable.
45. Road test the vehicle and check for proper transaxle operation.
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Friday, April 5th, 2013 AT 2:15 AM

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